O2 Sensor Harness
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Wenatchee Washington
O2 Sensor Harness
Before I left for this deployment, I installed a set of TSP longtube headers. My plan had been to run the front O2's and get the rear ones tuned out. I ran without O2's plugged in for a few weeks and about two weeks before I left I went to get the O2's back in and tuned. However, I apparently had not secured the harnesses good enough and the front driver side harness connector melted to my headers.
I thought I'd be fine just running the rear O2 to the front connection but when I went to do it, I noticed that the connections are different for the front and rear O2's, the fronts have a male connection coming off the car and the rears have a female. What I'm wondering is if the front and rear O2's themselves are different, because if not I can just cut off the connection for the rear O2 and splice it onto the front. If not, then I guess I need to find a new wiring harness somewhere.
I tried searching and couldn't find any information, thanks for any help.
I thought I'd be fine just running the rear O2 to the front connection but when I went to do it, I noticed that the connections are different for the front and rear O2's, the fronts have a male connection coming off the car and the rears have a female. What I'm wondering is if the front and rear O2's themselves are different, because if not I can just cut off the connection for the rear O2 and splice it onto the front. If not, then I guess I need to find a new wiring harness somewhere.
I tried searching and couldn't find any information, thanks for any help.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 911
Likes: 27
From: Southern IL
Before I left for this deployment, I installed a set of TSP longtube headers. My plan had been to run the front O2's and get the rear ones tuned out. I ran without O2's plugged in for a few weeks and about two weeks before I left I went to get the O2's back in and tuned. However, I apparently had not secured the harnesses good enough and the front driver side harness connector melted to my headers.
I thought I'd be fine just running the rear O2 to the front connection but when I went to do it, I noticed that the connections are different for the front and rear O2's, the fronts have a male connection coming off the car and the rears have a female. What I'm wondering is if the front and rear O2's themselves are different, because if not I can just cut off the connection for the rear O2 and splice it onto the front. If not, then I guess I need to find a new wiring harness somewhere.
I tried searching and couldn't find any information, thanks for any help.
I thought I'd be fine just running the rear O2 to the front connection but when I went to do it, I noticed that the connections are different for the front and rear O2's, the fronts have a male connection coming off the car and the rears have a female. What I'm wondering is if the front and rear O2's themselves are different, because if not I can just cut off the connection for the rear O2 and splice it onto the front. If not, then I guess I need to find a new wiring harness somewhere.
I tried searching and couldn't find any information, thanks for any help.
Just buy a new male and female connector and solder them in. Then use a large heat shielding sheath to slip over the connection.
There is a seller on ebay that sells the pigtails for only around $10 each. I just went through with this last week.
its a ***** to solder the male side from above the headers, but its not impossible.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260251244852...84.m1439.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LT1-LS1-Oxyg...item5883c16237
Last edited by Vicarious.; Nov 25, 2011 at 06:15 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
Before I left for this deployment, I installed a set of TSP longtube headers. My plan had been to run the front O2's and get the rear ones tuned out. I ran without O2's plugged in for a few weeks and about two weeks before I left I went to get the O2's back in and tuned. However, I apparently had not secured the harnesses good enough and the front driver side harness connector melted to my headers.
I thought I'd be fine just running the rear O2 to the front connection but when I went to do it, I noticed that the connections are different for the front and rear O2's, the fronts have a male connection coming off the car and the rears have a female. What I'm wondering is if the front and rear O2's themselves are different, because if not I can just cut off the connection for the rear O2 and splice it onto the front. If not, then I guess I need to find a new wiring harness somewhere.
I tried searching and couldn't find any information, thanks for any help.
I thought I'd be fine just running the rear O2 to the front connection but when I went to do it, I noticed that the connections are different for the front and rear O2's, the fronts have a male connection coming off the car and the rears have a female. What I'm wondering is if the front and rear O2's themselves are different, because if not I can just cut off the connection for the rear O2 and splice it onto the front. If not, then I guess I need to find a new wiring harness somewhere.
I tried searching and couldn't find any information, thanks for any help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 328
From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
I agree - the wires and specifically the wire cover or jacket has a special coating to keep them working in a High heat environment---I have seen maby 02's "home wired" before and even by electricians---Most ALL eventually FAIL--
I would get the adapter pigtails from the vendor mentioned or try "Casper's Electronics"
As far as the rear 02's themselves many people use them on the fronts when installing LT's----They heat up quicker and are are sensitive--When using LT's the front 02 bungs can be as far rearward as 3'----so you get erroneous 02 readings or sometimes they won't work at all---
I would get the adapter pigtails from the vendor mentioned or try "Casper's Electronics"
As far as the rear 02's themselves many people use them on the fronts when installing LT's----They heat up quicker and are are sensitive--When using LT's the front 02 bungs can be as far rearward as 3'----so you get erroneous 02 readings or sometimes they won't work at all---
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
My headers melted the wiring on my front my O2's as well.
Unfortunately I was away on business and my wife had to deal with it.
A local garage ( not a dealer) ordered a replacement set of 02 pigtails
and solved the problem.
Unfortunately I was away on business and my wife had to deal with it.
A local garage ( not a dealer) ordered a replacement set of 02 pigtails
and solved the problem.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 911
Likes: 27
From: Southern IL
What I did was...I ordered the pig tails from ebay (had never heard about the other pigtails from LG until lucky mentioned it in this thread), I used 2 layers of rubber heat shrink on all 4 individual wires after they were soldered. Then I wrapped the whole bundle with about 15 inches of this aluminum heat sleeve. Then I wrapped a couple layers extra protection on the header side of the heat sleeve with this heat tape. My wire bundle still does not touch my headers with all of this heat shielding (and I am running Kooks 1 7/8")
My total cost was about $50...but I don't think there is ANY chance my wiring harness will ever melt again after being wrapped in heat shrink & 1/4 inch thick layer of aluminum coated fiberglass.
My total cost was about $50...but I don't think there is ANY chance my wiring harness will ever melt again after being wrapped in heat shrink & 1/4 inch thick layer of aluminum coated fiberglass.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
Once two wires are soldered together, the mechanical bond becomes the strongest point in the wire. It also makes the copper strands, at the end of the solder point, more rigid/brittle. Without the correct strain relief, that now becomes the weak point at the connection, and the wire will break at the solder joint. In a wire bundle that is straight, not subject to bending/flexing, and where the wires are properly secured on either side of solder type repair.......it's not an issue.
