Code 1233
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Code 1233
Hello All. I am new to the forum and not sure I am using it correctly. I posted at the end of john5801's discussion of the same problem. I am reading all the post I can find on this persistent 1233 code. I have ohm'ed out wires, replaced both wheel sensors and cleaned everthing. I have pulled the ECBM and inspected it. I don't know what is next, unless it is internal to the ECBM. It is a beautiful 2004 C5 and I hate that I can't find this problem. Any advise would be helpful, ABS fixer also told me they couldn't help. please help
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 482
Likes: 7
From: Greenville Texas
I did everything you did. Swapped the wiring harness from the left to the right and still got the same C1232. Put my meter on the pigtail up the main connector on the EBCM and measured resistance. I lerked and tugged on the harness and it still read 0 ohms. Then I put a scan tool on it. It reads MPH fine then once I hit the threshold, it just reads 0 mph. So then I pulled the EBCM and took it apart. I redid all the solder joints that I could do. I heated up the pins at the connector that go down to the board that I can't get to. After all that and no change at all, it is a safe bet to assume the EBCM is the culprit. It is not the first time this has happened to someone.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
code 1233
Thanks for the reply. It sounds like we both went down the same road. I have shot the wiring from the pins at the ECBM all the way to both wheel sensor connectors. I have the same risistance values though out the system, indicating to me that there are no opens or shorts, either in the wire or the connectors. 1232, 1233 codes both say open or short, for the left and right front wheels. I pulled up a schematic of the system and all the wire colors match. I believe the problem is in the circuit board in the ECBM. I was a little surprised that ABS fixer has not had reported codes of this nature in thier dealings with the ECBM. Maybe we are on the road to identifing another problem that can save some other Vette owners the same frustrations. Thanks for the sanity check, I wanted to make sure I wasn't out in left field somewhere. Did you replace the ECBM and clear the problem?
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 482
Likes: 7
From: Greenville Texas
What I am actually trying to do, once I get off my butt and do it, is to rip apart the whole thing and get to the part of the pcm that is covered in the silicone that is easy to remove. Its the bottom board. I want to get all of the crap off and try to reverse engineer the part of the circuit that gives me that issue. I know that whatever the problem might be is heat related. The ebcm repair guys only usually fix a few bad solder joints on the easy to access part of the pcb and maybe replace a relay. I don't think anyone has really ever dug into the other pcb because of how much of a pain it is to get to and remove.
And I haven't bought another EBCM yet. $600 or so is a nice chunk of change for something that I might be able to fix. I will say that if I come across one locally on craigslist or something around $150, I'd jump it.
Now, however, since there is a little more interest in this project, I'll dig a little more into it. I'll probably screw up my EBCM but at this point, anything past 55 and it doesn't work anyway. I'll keep you posted.
And I haven't bought another EBCM yet. $600 or so is a nice chunk of change for something that I might be able to fix. I will say that if I come across one locally on craigslist or something around $150, I'd jump it.
Now, however, since there is a little more interest in this project, I'll dig a little more into it. I'll probably screw up my EBCM but at this point, anything past 55 and it doesn't work anyway. I'll keep you posted.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Could be a good plan. I started to remove the cover that holds the connector cove on but i wasn't sure of what to use to reseal it. Rahter than the $600 we spoke of, I think I will follow the same line of thinking. One thing I remembered that may have given me a clue. I have been caught in the rain on a couple of road trips. On occassion I would get a service traction system in the DIC. I stopped, turned the car off and took a short break. When I restarted the sytem went to warming up and everything cleared. This happened to me twice. Maybe there is a leak in that cover sealant and it is worth removing to investigate. I am not going to throw parts at the car until I am sure we are going in the right. Thanks for the feedback and I will keep uou posted on my progress.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 482
Likes: 7
From: Greenville Texas
And it'll be a couple of weeks before I can even try out anything if I get into it that far. I've had my car for a couple of years and said I didn't want to mod it. I have the Camaro for that. But then I screwed up and did that "flip-tie" mod and now I'm waiting for the long tubes to come in, the vararam to come in, x-pipe and valve springs and stuff. I just built my O2 simulators so I don't have to fork over the $500 just yet for HPTuners. But I'm thinking about not buying HPTuners and get a pirated GM Tech2 on ebay....
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Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 482
Likes: 7
From: Greenville Texas
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Interesting. I will let you know what I find. I am probably going to replace the ECBM anyway, so it is worth opening it to learn more about it. Going to have to wait till after Santa though. I don't think my Grandson wants an ECBM for Christmas. Good luck with all that work you got going on.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 530
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From: Havasu, AZ
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 145
Likes: 1
What did you find???
Thanks
Yellow '01
