Intake: Swap Rear Connection (pics)
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 4
From: Tracy CA
Intake: Swap Rear Connection (pics)
I'm in the middle of an intake swap. I found a good deal on an LS6 intake with a damaged rear connector for the AC vents, brake booster, and MAP sensor. It's the same connector that's on the existing LS1 intake.
Honestly - I should have picked up that deal on Amazon - but I didn't hear about that till I already picked this up.
They pivot a little an have some sort of o-ring. Is it possible to pull one off without destroying it and swapping them out?
How does it come apart? I looked inside - and it wasn't apparent.
LS1:
LS6:
Honestly - I should have picked up that deal on Amazon - but I didn't hear about that till I already picked this up.
They pivot a little an have some sort of o-ring. Is it possible to pull one off without destroying it and swapping them out?
How does it come apart? I looked inside - and it wasn't apparent.
LS1:
LS6:
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,473
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
I'm sorry partner, but you purchased a damaged intake. The part is not available separately from the dealer. A friend brought one to me some years back, after he had dropped it on it's end, damaging that same part. He was going with a FAST 90, so we pried it out of the intake, just out of shear curiosity. It's held on by multiple fingers about it's diameter......so it snaps/locks in place against the seal. I supposed one could fashion some sort of pipe, welded on a piece of rod, and try to compress the fingers. I can't remember if you can even get a straight shot at it from the front.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
I suppose the best chance of success would be to cut the back off the LS1 intake so you can figure out how that part is held in. Once you know how to get it out and have a plan on removing it from a complete intake then attempt to fix the LS6 intake. It's a "no return" plan though since you'd have to buy another intake if you fail.
Otherwise, maybe you can drill and tap that hole for something like a 1/8" NPT to barbed fitting. Or just plug that hole and drill and tap somewhere else for a new fitting. And no, I have no idea if the intake can successfully be drilled and tapped.
Otherwise, maybe you can drill and tap that hole for something like a 1/8" NPT to barbed fitting. Or just plug that hole and drill and tap somewhere else for a new fitting. And no, I have no idea if the intake can successfully be drilled and tapped.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 4
From: Tracy CA
So, the answer is: There are three plastic tabs on the housing that need to be depressed from the backside.
See photo:
And the hole:
I wish I could say this was mine - but it is not. I need three REALLY long flat head screwdrivers to get from the front to the back of the manifold. (or really skinny arms.)
See photo:
And the hole:
I wish I could say this was mine - but it is not. I need three REALLY long flat head screwdrivers to get from the front to the back of the manifold. (or really skinny arms.)
Last edited by mitchcole; Nov 29, 2011 at 11:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 4
From: Tracy CA
OK - so on the LS6 intake - the MAP sensor head broke off in the hole. Easy fix - just fish it out with a hook. The vacuum line feeding the AC damper doors looks like I can either JB weld in a connection or cap it entirely and epoxy in a new connection.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,473
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
At the end of the day, is the backwoods engineering really worth it? The more you rig something up, the more variables you create. Then when you do have a problem with the engine, you are scratching your head, trying to figure out if it's something new.........or something you rigged that has come apart. To each their own I guess.
Good luck.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
That doesn't look too hard to get out. It will likely come out if you rig up a tool to reach in and release one tab at a time. or just do as Lucky already suggested and rig up a piece of pipe the correct size to compress the tabs all at once.
Now that I've seen that picture, I would personally just chop out the back of the LS1 intake to get the good part out and use it to make up a piece of pipe that will release the one in the LS6 intake. Just get a piece of pipe close to the right size and cut a slit in it and then spread or squeeze it until it's correct. Bevel the inside edge a bit with a file so it'll compress the tabs.
Now that I've seen that picture, I would personally just chop out the back of the LS1 intake to get the good part out and use it to make up a piece of pipe that will release the one in the LS6 intake. Just get a piece of pipe close to the right size and cut a slit in it and then spread or squeeze it until it's correct. Bevel the inside edge a bit with a file so it'll compress the tabs.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 409
From: Portland OR
So you bought that one over on the LS1 site........
Just happen to have an LS6 manifold sitting here in the living room. Give me crap, I'm a single car guy.
First, the MAP sensor is hard to get out with or without the plastic clip framis. It isn't going anywhere and it's not going to leak. It can be wiggled a lot even when clipped in place.
Second, you can drill and tap plastic. Get a 1/8 npt pipe tap. Find a fitting at the True Value. Just tap it part way and test fit the fitting. In plastic, you can get it started and let the fitting help tap the rest. Use a good sealer.
If the plastic is too thin, you are out a tap and a fitting.
Third. The port just needs to see manifold vacuum. So anywhere on the plenum will be fine. GM put it in the back because it was convienient for the car.
I like the hack the LS1 manifold to remove the part perfectly. Then carefully cut, twist mangle the plug in the LS6 manifold until it comes out w/o messing up the seal area. Then pop in the retreived LS1 part.
My bet is on Mitch. He's got skeels!
Ron
Just happen to have an LS6 manifold sitting here in the living room. Give me crap, I'm a single car guy.
First, the MAP sensor is hard to get out with or without the plastic clip framis. It isn't going anywhere and it's not going to leak. It can be wiggled a lot even when clipped in place.
Second, you can drill and tap plastic. Get a 1/8 npt pipe tap. Find a fitting at the True Value. Just tap it part way and test fit the fitting. In plastic, you can get it started and let the fitting help tap the rest. Use a good sealer.
If the plastic is too thin, you are out a tap and a fitting.
Third. The port just needs to see manifold vacuum. So anywhere on the plenum will be fine. GM put it in the back because it was convienient for the car.
I like the hack the LS1 manifold to remove the part perfectly. Then carefully cut, twist mangle the plug in the LS6 manifold until it comes out w/o messing up the seal area. Then pop in the retreived LS1 part.
My bet is on Mitch. He's got skeels!
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Nov 30, 2011 at 12:22 AM. Reason: Just because
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 409
From: Portland OR
That doesn't look too hard to get out. It will likely come out if you rig up a tool to reach in and release one tab at a time. or just do as Lucky already suggested and rig up a piece of pipe the correct size to compress the tabs all at once.
Now that I've seen that picture, I would personally just chop out the back of the LS1 intake to get the good part out and use it to make up a piece of pipe that will release the one in the LS6 intake. Just get a piece of pipe close to the right size and cut a slit in it and then spread or squeeze it until it's correct. Bevel the inside edge a bit with a file so it'll compress the tabs.
Now that I've seen that picture, I would personally just chop out the back of the LS1 intake to get the good part out and use it to make up a piece of pipe that will release the one in the LS6 intake. Just get a piece of pipe close to the right size and cut a slit in it and then spread or squeeze it until it's correct. Bevel the inside edge a bit with a file so it'll compress the tabs.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 4
From: Tracy CA
Well, I fabbed up some really long flat blade prong pushers out of old stainless steel gas piping (I work at a semiconductor facility) that are long enough to reach those tabs at the back of the manifold. One of them is offset to get to the bottom center tab. This should be interesting.
-Mitch
-Mitch
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 911
Likes: 27
From: Southern IL
i dont think an LS1 intake is worth a whole lot for resale anyways... couldnt you just cut it in half and pull that piece out from the back side?
That LS1 intake will be 100% worthless anyway after you take that fitting out of the back.
I'd get aquianted with a hacksaw if it was me
That LS1 intake will be 100% worthless anyway after you take that fitting out of the back.
I'd get aquianted with a hacksaw if it was me
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 4
From: Tracy CA
Ha - FAIL!
It looked like recessed slot in which to send in the flathead screwdriver to pop out. Turns out to be an optical illusion. You actually have to squeeze the tabs from inside the intake.
That's not going to happen.
It looked like recessed slot in which to send in the flathead screwdriver to pop out. Turns out to be an optical illusion. You actually have to squeeze the tabs from inside the intake.
That's not going to happen.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Hack up the LS1 intake to get the plug out without hurting it.
You can do as Ron suggested on the LS6 and hack up the plug until it comes out without hurting the intake.
It does appear the person you got the pictures from was able to pop it out without damaging either piece.
You can do as Ron suggested on the LS6 and hack up the plug until it comes out without hurting the intake.
It does appear the person you got the pictures from was able to pop it out without damaging either piece.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 482
Likes: 7
From: Greenville Texas
Drill a big hole on the broken piece on the LS6 manifold. With a big enough hole on that piece, you should be able to put a flat blade in there and break the tabs on the bad one. Then as others said, hack up the LS1 manifold for the good one.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 65
From: Rochester Hills MI
i dont think an LS1 intake is worth a whole lot for resale anyways... couldnt you just cut it in half and pull that piece out from the back side?
That LS1 intake will be 100% worthless anyway after you take that fitting out of the back.
I'd get aquianted with a hacksaw if it was me
That LS1 intake will be 100% worthless anyway after you take that fitting out of the back.
I'd get aquianted with a hacksaw if it was me
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 4
From: Tracy CA
I hacked the LS1 to get to the back side of those clips to take the vacuum housing off in one piece.
This is what it looks like attached:
Good part:
LS6 intake with the bad part with the bulk of it hacksawed off.
pried out the inner pieces with pliers. The plastic snaps easily.
Then simply pry back the tabs from the inside with a screwdriver till they crack. Then pull it out.
The new one snaps right in place.
