ABS/Traction Need Service!!!
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
ABS/Traction Need Service!!!
Hello and I hope I have listed this in the right section... Ive been researching for a few days and didnt really see the best answer for me...
I pulled all the codes but everything was H (which I read stated for history and was okay now)
Only code that is Current is C1217, Can anyone help me out of what to do...
Greatly Appreciate the help...
I pulled all the codes but everything was H (which I read stated for history and was okay now)
Only code that is Current is C1217, Can anyone help me out of what to do...
Greatly Appreciate the help...
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
These were the codes that came up first:
10-PCM: No Codes
28-TCS: C1217H
40-BCM NO CODES
58-SDM NO CODES
60-IPC: U1160H
80-RADIO: U1064H
99-HVAC: B0361H B0363H
A0-LDCM: B2282 H B2284H U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A1-RDCM: B2283H B2285H U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A6-SCM: B2606H
BO-RFA: U1096H U1064H U1016H
After RESETTING ALL Codes all that was left to show was
C1217
Thank you very much for your help
10-PCM: No Codes
28-TCS: C1217H
40-BCM NO CODES
58-SDM NO CODES
60-IPC: U1160H
80-RADIO: U1064H
99-HVAC: B0361H B0363H
A0-LDCM: B2282 H B2284H U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A1-RDCM: B2283H B2285H U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A6-SCM: B2606H
BO-RFA: U1096H U1064H U1016H
After RESETTING ALL Codes all that was left to show was
C1217
Thank you very much for your help
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I've seen a 1243 code with a low battery but have never seen the 1217 too date. Best to follow the advice already given before going beyond the usual problems.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
U think it could just be a simple battery? I literally bought the car about 2 months ago and it was fine but the abs/traction would come and go and now it comes everytime... When I apply the brakes EVERY light dimms including even front headlights at night as well as all cluster lights/center console lights... I hope its just an battery issue...
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 4
From: Slidell La
U think it could just be a simple battery? I literally bought the car about 2 months ago and it was fine but the abs/traction would come and go and now it comes everytime... When I apply the brakes EVERY light dimms including even front headlights at night as well as all cluster lights/center console lights... I hope its just an battery issue...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 931
Likes: 35
From: Rowlett, Texas
I'll try to explain the C1217 code a bit:
The underhood fuse box has the ABS maxifuse (40 amp, at location 52).
This is the power that flows thru the relay in the EBCM to the ABS pump motor when the ABS or TC is engaged and the relay is energized.
Check this first; you may get lucky!
The computer is telling you that voltage from the fuse, to the relay and on to the pump motor, is low. The voltage reading is taken after the relay.
This would indicate that there is a short to ground somewhere along the wire (red wire ckt 1642) or inside the EBCM. It could also indicate the relay contact is very resistive, and causing a voltage drop to the motor.
Unfortunately, this may be the case. The pump motors are notorious for partially jamming/stalling and drawing significant current through the relay; thus the relay gets damaged over time. Code 1243 usually begins to set first, indicating the motor is running slowly and pulling too much current. Over time, the high current damages the relay or the EBCM circuitry, and the 1217 fault will set.
The bad news is, the EBCM or the BPMV (houses the motor) for the pre-2001 cars are no longer available anywhere, and are not rebuildable. I assume it's a 2000???
So, for these, the only option is a used unit (and they are going for up to $700 because so many are failing).
If you have a later model, ABSfixer and others can repair the EBCM and the relay for about $150 I think.
But, back to possible easy fixes:
Find the ground wire coming off the ABS motor (under the coolant hose on the drivers side) and make sure it is cleanly attached to the body ground. Check all the grounds and clean them up (do a search herein). Trace the red wire from under the fuse to the ABS unit and be sure all is good.
Definitely try the battery thing.
After that, to do much more, you will need to spend several hours removing the EBCM to check what connections you can (not much) and try to "exercise" the ABS motor - do a search on that.
Not to sound negative, but if it's not a simple ground or fuse thing, then it's probably gonna get complicated and very expensive.
Several of us on the Forum do routine motor exercising of the ABS just to try to save the precious relay and the EBCM, but it's just a matter of time until the unit goes. Then we'll all be looking for those used units on ebay for ridiculous prices, that probably are also on the way to failure, too.
DG
The underhood fuse box has the ABS maxifuse (40 amp, at location 52).
This is the power that flows thru the relay in the EBCM to the ABS pump motor when the ABS or TC is engaged and the relay is energized.
Check this first; you may get lucky!
The computer is telling you that voltage from the fuse, to the relay and on to the pump motor, is low. The voltage reading is taken after the relay.
This would indicate that there is a short to ground somewhere along the wire (red wire ckt 1642) or inside the EBCM. It could also indicate the relay contact is very resistive, and causing a voltage drop to the motor.
Unfortunately, this may be the case. The pump motors are notorious for partially jamming/stalling and drawing significant current through the relay; thus the relay gets damaged over time. Code 1243 usually begins to set first, indicating the motor is running slowly and pulling too much current. Over time, the high current damages the relay or the EBCM circuitry, and the 1217 fault will set.
The bad news is, the EBCM or the BPMV (houses the motor) for the pre-2001 cars are no longer available anywhere, and are not rebuildable. I assume it's a 2000???
So, for these, the only option is a used unit (and they are going for up to $700 because so many are failing).
If you have a later model, ABSfixer and others can repair the EBCM and the relay for about $150 I think.
But, back to possible easy fixes:
Find the ground wire coming off the ABS motor (under the coolant hose on the drivers side) and make sure it is cleanly attached to the body ground. Check all the grounds and clean them up (do a search herein). Trace the red wire from under the fuse to the ABS unit and be sure all is good.
Definitely try the battery thing.
After that, to do much more, you will need to spend several hours removing the EBCM to check what connections you can (not much) and try to "exercise" the ABS motor - do a search on that.
Not to sound negative, but if it's not a simple ground or fuse thing, then it's probably gonna get complicated and very expensive.
Several of us on the Forum do routine motor exercising of the ABS just to try to save the precious relay and the EBCM, but it's just a matter of time until the unit goes. Then we'll all be looking for those used units on ebay for ridiculous prices, that probably are also on the way to failure, too.
DG
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 482
Likes: 7
From: Greenville Texas
Here is a trick that I learned about this if it happens.
Drive the car at least 20MPH in a straight line. While you're driving, go into the test mode on the cluster. When you scroll to TCS, gently apply your foot to the brake. Not enough where you'll stop fast, just enough just enough to basically make the brake lights come on. While applying the brakes, reset the TCS code. When you do, you should feel the pedal "talk" to you. It kind of grinds. You might have to do this a couple of times, but it has worked for me.
Drive the car at least 20MPH in a straight line. While you're driving, go into the test mode on the cluster. When you scroll to TCS, gently apply your foot to the brake. Not enough where you'll stop fast, just enough just enough to basically make the brake lights come on. While applying the brakes, reset the TCS code. When you do, you should feel the pedal "talk" to you. It kind of grinds. You might have to do this a couple of times, but it has worked for me.
