New brakes ?
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Race Director
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From: SE Pennsylvania
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Oldtimer
New Hawk Ceramic brakes ?
I'm getting a new set of rotors and 'Hawk Ceramic brake pads' and I was wondering if they are OK out of the box or do I need to do any brake-In when I first use them ? Thank you ! 
Last edited by killain; Dec 11, 2011 at 07:56 PM.
Tech Contributor
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From: Dyer, IN
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/ceramic.php
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 11,117
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From: SE Pennsylvania
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Oldtimer
Brake-in procedures ?
There seems to be information on their website....check it out.
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/ceramic.php
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/ceramic.php
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Palo Alto CA
Every time you replace the brakes and rotors you need to bed them. There are different ways to do this, with many people recommending heat cycling them. Or you can just drive the car without getting on the brakes hard for the first 200-500 miles until they properly bed. My guess is that heat cycling them is a better method, but you need the right amount of space to do it which is an issue where I live (requires repeated runs of 60 mph to 0, or something along those lines, with the car/brakes cooling in between each run.)
Tech Contributor
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From: Dyer, IN
Bed-In instructions:
1) After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2) Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3) DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4) Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5) After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
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Is this not what you are looking for below?
Bed-In instructions:
1) After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2) Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3) DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4) Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5) After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
Bed-In instructions:
1) After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2) Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3) DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4) Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5) After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 11,117
Likes: 671
From: SE Pennsylvania
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Oldtimer
Brake in method.
Is this not what you are looking for below?
Bed-In instructions:
1) After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2) Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3) DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4) Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5) After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
Bed-In instructions:
1) After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2) Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3) DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4) Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5) After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,401
Likes: 1,144
From: Dyer, IN
This is from the page.
Installation Procedure
Bed-In Instructions
Warranty
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/ceramic.php
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Something people also forget is to clean the rotors off very well befor you install them. They will have a film of oil on them applied as a rust preventative. You dont want to embed that into the pads. Buy a can of Brake-Kleen from CRC or something comparable. Spray down the entire rotor inside the hat (hub side), both machined surfaces and the hats. Theyll dry quickly by evaporation.
Next, I like to rinse them in very hot tap water and air dry them with compressed air. If you dont have compresses air, use a nice sized bath towel and dry them well.
Nows a great time to paint the inner side of the rotor hat (the hub side) and the rotor hat itself. I like black myself, but whatever floats your boat. Also, paint the skinny side of the rotors, looking down into the cooling vanes. This prevents rust and it looks cool imo.
Dont worry about some oversparay on the smooth machined surfaces, it will come right off when you use the brakes... If theres a bunch of overspray, use a little laquer thinner and a lint free rag to remove the excess paint.
Next, I like to rinse them in very hot tap water and air dry them with compressed air. If you dont have compresses air, use a nice sized bath towel and dry them well.
Nows a great time to paint the inner side of the rotor hat (the hub side) and the rotor hat itself. I like black myself, but whatever floats your boat. Also, paint the skinny side of the rotors, looking down into the cooling vanes. This prevents rust and it looks cool imo.
Dont worry about some oversparay on the smooth machined surfaces, it will come right off when you use the brakes... If theres a bunch of overspray, use a little laquer thinner and a lint free rag to remove the excess paint.