Camshaft selection
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
From: Montreal QC
Camshaft selection
HI guys, i have a c5 with a Vortech kit. Also have full exhaust and intake. I need to change the damper so i was thinking about putting a cam in as im tearing up many parts. I use the car maybe 2-3 days a week in summer. I want something that sounds mean and that is good in 3.5k rpm + range.
Any suggestions?? And what would i need to change with the cam.
Any suggestions?? And what would i need to change with the cam.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 43
From: Goldsboro, NC
I would get ahold of ECS. They can answer all your questions im sure. I am also looking for a Blower cam, I just dont have a Blower yet lol. Along with the cam You will most likely want to replace all the parts you have access to while doing the cam....Oil pump, Timing chain, etc. Also will need springs, pushrods.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 56
From: Houston Texas
I am biased to comp cams, and they have several series of cams for boosted applications while using the cathedral port heads, if you have a FAST intake, etc... The have a tech line also, 1-800-999-0853, that I believe a lot of people tend to dismiss and go through the variety of performance shops instead 
. Call any preferred performance shops, but do yourself a favor and contact Comp as well. They manufacture the cams for many of the shops anyway, and will have done more testing then all of them combined.
I have been using the their "LSR™ Cathedral Port, 281LR HR13" cam for about the last 40k miles in my NA '99 FRC with no issues at all, and it comes on strong at 2.8k rpm or so and peaks at 6.5k rpm with my current setup. Curve is very close to flat though from 6k - 7k rpm. Someone will likely chime in about the lift being a valvetrain killer at .617"/.624", and with very agressive lobes being that it is their LS racing series cam. But like I said, I have had zero issues in 40k miles and would put it in again.
If you are doing a cam swap, you will want to take care of a few other things while you are in there that deep:
- oil pump (can do an LS6 pump, a ported LS6 pump, or I went with a Melling high volume pump)
- timing chain set, or just replace the chain itself with a LS2 chain (I did a dual roller, with torrington bearing - However, know that the dual roller and/or the melling oil pump will require some grinding to the pump and timing chain cover to fit!!)
- gaskets obviously (timing chain cover, water pump are the main ones)
- check your existing damper for weights added
- valve springs (lift of cam chosen will determine which type to go with, I went with Patriot duals and have been good)
- hardened pushrods
- get a couple of dowel rods, 5/16" diameter if memory is correct, to lock lifters in place when pulling the cam
I'm sure there is a writeup somewhere on here if you do a search that has some pictures. If you are mechanically savvy, it really isn't that bad of a job. The only PIA to me was the power steering rack removal. Had to loosen the front engine cradle nuts about .5-.75" and pry away from frame to have enough room to slide it out towards the drivers side.
Last note.. Be aware that asking for cam suggestions is going to get you 23,915+ different responses, give or take a few
. Most are going to be partial to what they have, have used, or "tuner" suggested...
GL with mods
. Call any preferred performance shops, but do yourself a favor and contact Comp as well. They manufacture the cams for many of the shops anyway, and will have done more testing then all of them combined. I have been using the their "LSR™ Cathedral Port, 281LR HR13" cam for about the last 40k miles in my NA '99 FRC with no issues at all, and it comes on strong at 2.8k rpm or so and peaks at 6.5k rpm with my current setup. Curve is very close to flat though from 6k - 7k rpm. Someone will likely chime in about the lift being a valvetrain killer at .617"/.624", and with very agressive lobes being that it is their LS racing series cam. But like I said, I have had zero issues in 40k miles and would put it in again.
If you are doing a cam swap, you will want to take care of a few other things while you are in there that deep:
- oil pump (can do an LS6 pump, a ported LS6 pump, or I went with a Melling high volume pump)
- timing chain set, or just replace the chain itself with a LS2 chain (I did a dual roller, with torrington bearing - However, know that the dual roller and/or the melling oil pump will require some grinding to the pump and timing chain cover to fit!!)
- gaskets obviously (timing chain cover, water pump are the main ones)
- check your existing damper for weights added
- valve springs (lift of cam chosen will determine which type to go with, I went with Patriot duals and have been good)
- hardened pushrods
- get a couple of dowel rods, 5/16" diameter if memory is correct, to lock lifters in place when pulling the cam
I'm sure there is a writeup somewhere on here if you do a search that has some pictures. If you are mechanically savvy, it really isn't that bad of a job. The only PIA to me was the power steering rack removal. Had to loosen the front engine cradle nuts about .5-.75" and pry away from frame to have enough room to slide it out towards the drivers side.
Last note.. Be aware that asking for cam suggestions is going to get you 23,915+ different responses, give or take a few
. Most are going to be partial to what they have, have used, or "tuner" suggested... GL with mods
Last edited by JDS99; Dec 27, 2011 at 01:22 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 18,643
Likes: 14
From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
In light of the above post:
No SC here.
I bought the cam now in my car from a buddy, (Merry Christmas, Chris), and he and a few other forum members showed me and performed the install a year ago this month.
My car already had LT headers, catback and Vararam.
The cam specs are mildly aggressive 228, 230, 585, 588, 113 LSA.
Including a dyno the tune the car came alive in the RPM range you spoke of. I have a MN6 and after a year the clutch is fine at 85K on the original. The car is simply not the same as before and street manners are geat! Nice lope at idle, at about 3500 she sings all the way to the haftashift RPM!
Very happy!
My $00.02
No SC here.
I bought the cam now in my car from a buddy, (Merry Christmas, Chris), and he and a few other forum members showed me and performed the install a year ago this month.
My car already had LT headers, catback and Vararam.
The cam specs are mildly aggressive 228, 230, 585, 588, 113 LSA.
Including a dyno the tune the car came alive in the RPM range you spoke of. I have a MN6 and after a year the clutch is fine at 85K on the original. The car is simply not the same as before and street manners are geat! Nice lope at idle, at about 3500 she sings all the way to the haftashift RPM!
Very happy!
My $00.02
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,245
Likes: 25
From: Blue Ridge Georgia
I'm a believer in Texas Speed. I love my 228R, give them a call. We have many good cam suppliers my suggestion is to talk to 2 or 3 of them. I read post all over Google and looked at so many utube videos before I made my decision. Making your choice is half of the fun of a cam anyway. Good Luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,119
Likes: 156
From: Huntington tx
I'm a believer in Texas Speed. I love my 228R, give them a call. We have many good cam suppliers my suggestion is to talk to 2 or 3 of them. I read post all over Google and looked at so many utube videos before I made my decision. Making your choice is half of the fun of a cam anyway. Good Luck.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QydZ7OOroTs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkRVJmK_48c
