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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 04:29 PM
  #41  
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MGW was the best mod I have done $ 4 $. The new style is fully adjustable so when I want easy effort I un screw the ROD and when I really want it to feel good I screw the ROD down tight. (LOL). All kidding aside it does work that way and is a great product with great service. You can chage the effort with about 5 mins work by lifting the shift boot and loosening the jam nut and adjusting the ROD and re-tighening the jam. My $.02
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 09:24 PM
  #42  
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anyone looking into a short shifter for their daily should seriously consider the RSD Snap Shifter

I've had it for just about 7 months now and drive 120 miles a day in some traffic and I totally love it. It is basically just a stock C6Z shifter AND shift box, but its been cut down.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 09:54 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ipuig
Looks like neither technical ability or maturity are required to become a "tech contributor" on this forum.
I see a trend. If you don't like it it must suck and everyone else is stupid for having it.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 10:59 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by C5 Hunter
MGW was the best mod I have done $ 4 $. The new style is fully adjustable so when I want easy effort I un screw the ROD and when I really want it to feel good I screw the ROD down tight. (LOL). All kidding aside it does work that way and is a great product with great service. You can chage the effort with about 5 mins work by lifting the shift boot and loosening the jam nut and adjusting the ROD and re-tighening the jam. My $.02
I did not know the new style offered any adjustability, that is a actually pretty cool. I'll have to check it out - anyone in NJ with this shifter?
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:31 AM
  #45  
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a little Southern NJ for me (actually NC) but I have had the MGW in my 2000 for about 8-9 months- love it !! Also just my taste but I may be one of the only Vette guys that like the stock shift ****- so cleaned out the inside of the top so you can screw it down onto the MGW post and fit a thin lock nut on top in the recess and then snap in the rectangular pattern piece- so looks just like a stock shifter except much shorter (if you want ot to be) and WAAAYYYYYY better shifting.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:50 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ol rich
a little Southern NJ for me (actually NC) but I have had the MGW in my 2000 for about 8-9 months- love it !! Also just my taste but I may be one of the only Vette guys that like the stock shift ****- so cleaned out the inside of the top so you can screw it down onto the MGW post and fit a thin lock nut on top in the recess and then snap in the rectangular pattern piece- so looks just like a stock shifter except much shorter (if you want ot to be) and WAAAYYYYYY better shifting.
Im also a fan of the factory shifter and would still be using it if I did not lose the demon key, if only I could either find the demensions or get a new one...
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 10:05 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
Im also a fan of the factory shifter and would still be using it if I did not lose the demon key, if only I could either find the demensions or get a new one...
They are available at your favorite Chevy dealer $9.00
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Sunset-C6
They are available at your favorite Chevy dealer $9.00


Part number is 10150014
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 12:10 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
Im also a fan of the factory shifter and would still be using it if I did not lose the demon key, if only I could either find the demensions or get a new one...
You can use it without. I did for a while then got a Derlin ****.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TriplBlk
You can use it without. I did for a while then got a Derlin ****.
Maybe Im a lot harder on the shifter than most because it would rotate every time I went to have some fun, just couldnt get it tight enough to keep it from spining.
And its only costing me 15 to make an entirely new shifter out of an 8 ball so I cant see spending 9$ on a little pice of metal, maybe 3...
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 01:10 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
Maybe Im a lot harder on the shifter than most because it would rotate every time I went to have some fun, just couldnt get it tight enough to keep it from spining.
And its only costing me 15 to make an entirely new shifter out of an 8 ball so I cant see spending 9$ on a little pice of metal, maybe 3...
Hahaha Your doing an 8 ball? niiccee lol
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:21 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by TriplBlk
Hahaha Your doing an 8 ball? niiccee lol
Yep, not your typical 8 ball though its got what I would call a marble finish on it so its black with a little bit of white mixed in. I dont care for the 8 thats going to be positioned on top so I will probably mill that out and put in a plate with either the shift pattern or corvette logo engraved in. Im just having a little bit of trouble figuring out how to use the mill that my uncle has and he knows even less about it than I do....
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:50 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
Yep, not your typical 8 ball though its got what I would call a marble finish on it so its black with a little bit of white mixed in. I dont care for the 8 thats going to be positioned on top so I will probably mill that out and put in a plate with either the shift pattern or corvette logo engraved in. Im just having a little bit of trouble figuring out how to use the mill that my uncle has and he knows even less about it than I do....
Haha nice man, good luck Though!!
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by TriplBlk
Haha nice man, good luck Though!!
Yea Ive thought about buying a block of derlin and making a few of them but I just need to figure out what to use for an insert to fasten it to the shaft.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:15 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
Yea Ive thought about buying a block of derlin and making a few of them but I just need to figure out what to use for an insert to fasten it to the shaft.
How much is the block of derlin? You could probably do a set screw? That would keep it simple yet would work.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:22 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by TriplBlk
How much is the block of derlin? You could probably do a set screw? That would keep it simple yet would work.
Im not too sure how much they run right off I looked them up sometime last year and it was pretty cheap all things considered. I had though about a set screw but Im not sure how the derlin would hold up to being threaded, I guess I could always get a step drill and make a tapered hole in the derlin and fill it with jb weld and then tap that. Maybe I just dont have enough confidence in plastic to hold any amount of torque.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:31 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
Im not too sure how much they run right off I looked them up sometime last year and it was pretty cheap all things considered. I had though about a set screw but Im not sure how the derlin would hold up to being threaded, I guess I could always get a step drill and make a tapered hole in the derlin and fill it with jb weld and then tap that. Maybe I just dont have enough confidence in plastic to hold any amount of torque.
Most derlin ***** that you see are actually threaded just with the derlin. Very few (idk where it is) had aluminum threads inside. The derlin will hold up. I wouldnt trust JB weld though.

gtg grocery shopping brb lol
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:40 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by TriplBlk
Most derlin ***** that you see are actually threaded just with the derlin. Very few (idk where it is) had aluminum threads inside. The derlin will hold up. I wouldnt trust JB weld though.

gtg grocery shopping brb lol
Jb weld is actually really strong once it is fully cured, you just have to make sure you prep the area so that it bonds well. Maybe I dont need to insert a nut into the 8 ball with a jam nut that will hold it tight, I suppose I always over engineer stuff. I dont think I have a 9/16 18(I think thats the correct pitch or whatever) tap though so I would have to get one and I would def use a set screw.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
Jb weld is actually really strong once it is fully cured, you just have to make sure you prep the area so that it bonds well. Maybe I dont need to insert a nut into the 8 ball with a jam nut that will hold it tight, I suppose I always over engineer stuff. I dont think I have a 9/16 18(I think thats the correct pitch or whatever) tap though so I would have to get one and I would def use a set screw.
I guess I didnt have it cured. I actually have a 9/16 18 tap lol ( you got it right) Never used it though. I guess its good to have around. I wonder where that thing is hahah. Napa has one
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 11:11 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by TriplBlk
I guess I didnt have it cured. I actually have a 9/16 18 tap lol ( you got it right) Never used it though. I guess its good to have around. I wonder where that thing is hahah. Napa has one
Yea it takes forever to cure 100%, Ive actually put it on the grinder and it actually had a fair amount of resistance. I might have access to the correct tap but I dont know as I dont actually have a tap set. I think thats next on my tool list but Idk. I want to get a wideband too so who knows, I have a bunch of sockets now that my GF got me a real nice set for Christmas
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