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When I dyno'd my AFR's fell to 10.9:1 from 5200 to 6100 RPM's. That puppy is RICH. I dyno'd at 293. The Dyno tech said I probably lost about 15 RWHP being so rich. I believe him as other C5's with similiar or even stock put down better numbers and their AFR's were way better than mine. One car a 2001 with the exact same mod's as mine dyno'd real strong at 321. There's HP to be found or lost with AFR's.
You dont want to be "lean" or "rich". When people begin speaking about being lean, what are they really trying to say? What are they referencing that too?
The real answer is that you want to have the optimal mixture.
So what do I need to do about my 10.9:1 AFR? I removed the MAF screen and the car really responded. I mean the SOTP meter is weak at best but I can tell the car liked the additional air flow.
Could I have leaned out my car just a little by yanking the screen?
Will my car automatically adjust my air/fuel values? Meaning, if my PCM was set to be too "rich" will it try and "lean" it out on it's own?
In closed loop mode (non WOT) where the PCM relies on the O2 sensors for feedback, yes, the PCM will adjust to 14.7:1 stociometric no matter what. This is the function of the fuel trims. They add or subtract from what is actually being seen by the MAF, RPM etc.
During WOT is where you can become too rich or too lean, and may require tuning, translator etc. However, bringing your fuel trims in line during base operation, assists greatly in WOT tuning.
So WOT A/F ratios are a "fixed" number and they do not adjust itself, correct? Sorry for a stupid question, but what defines WOT? Pedal to the floor, 3/4 throttle....I mean is there a "line" when the car detects WOT?
WOT still uses "fixed" tables within the PCM for spark and fuel delivery, however it is dynamically moves among tables. There is no feedback occurring like non-wot operation. It relies on MAF Flow Rates, RPM, Intake Air Temp, and Throttle Position. It will also base WOT operation somewhat on where it was at during non-wot operation.
In General 80% Throttle or greater dicates Fuel Enrichment Mode (WOT operation).
Mag Red Monster: Yes for WOT monitoring you want to look at B1S1 and B2S1. This will show you your air fuel ratio at WOT.
kewlbrz let's go back to my original problem. When I dyno'd with a wideband 02 reading my AFR's sort of looked like this"
3200 - 5200 RPM's 11.9:1 down to 11.0:1
5300 - 6100 RPM's steady at 10.9:1
Tells me car was real RICH from 3200 RPM's to 6100. My RWHP was 293 and again I have a NM6, Corsa Indy's and 02 LS6 lid/K&N filter.
I pulled my MAF screen did idle re-learn the went of a nice long drive. The car felt like a new car. I can spin the tires on a roll in second now - never before.
My Blackwing is my next mod. Based on what I'm reading here my PCM will make adjustments to the increased air flow on it's own for normal throttle positions. But for WOT the values are FIXED. So if my car was RICH it stands to reason that increasing the air flow will LEAN out the AFR's where FIXED and the PCM will adjust at partial throttle settings. Hence the reason my car feels so much stronger at WOT than ever?
I will re-dyno with 02 readings and I bet I find MORE HP and better AFR's?
I would definatly agree Tom. If your that rich during WOT, then either a brute force method by making it go "leaner" they way you are doing it, or tuning with a translator, or PCM programming is the way to find your power. Obviously a translator or tuning will eek out all thats there.
I had the same experience when I dynoed. I've got a K&N filter/LS6 air filter cover and Powerloader II as my only mods.
RWHP= 294
A/F ratio (I don't have the data here at work so this is a swag):
started at about 13:1
then immediately droped to 12:1 and held steady
at 5,200/5,300 RPMs drope to about 11:1 and held steady
What's up with that? Doesn't the Powerloader adjust the A/F ratio different from stock?
This helps explain the new found muscle under my right foot. The car is so lively now and screams to the red line. I'm installing the Blackwing this weekend and will spend the $65 to re-dyno before taking the "tuning" road.
I'm very happy that my gamble (removing the MAF screen) seems to have worked. Of course only a dyno will tell the truth.