Check engine code after mod
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 141
From: Summerville South Carolina
Check engine code after mod
So, I added a cat back exhaust, Blackwing intake and a smooth intake connector (at throttle body) to my 2001 LS1 vert about 200 miles ago Now I get a check engine light. When I clear it, it stays off for 20-30 miles then hits again. Gas cap is tight.
Any ideas?
Car has only 17K miles on it. Just bought it. Cleaned all grounds
Any ideas?
Car has only 17K miles on it. Just bought it. Cleaned all grounds
Last edited by David Shiel; Jan 6, 2012 at 08:20 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
So, I added a cat back exhaust, Blackwing intake and a smooth intake connector (at throttle body) to my 2001 LS1 vert about 200 miles ago Now I get a check engine light. When I clear it, it stays off for 20-30 miles then hits again. Gas cap is tight.
Any ideas?
Car has only 17K miles on it. Just bought it. Cleaned all grounds
Any ideas?
Car has only 17K miles on it. Just bought it. Cleaned all grounds
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Many users of the "Blackwing" have reported intermittent lean bank codes. Check the codes on the DIC to confirm why the check engine light is occurring. It also happened to me, but it may have had to do with my 5,200ft altitude.
Did you perform the "idle relearn" procedure? It might help.
Get a small mirror and check the (semi rigid) smooth silicone coupler beneath the throttle body. People buy those things thinking they're an improvement, but I found them to contribute to the same issue you're describing.
The coupler may pucker allowing for an air leak when clamped. It's almost impossible to see w/o the use of a small mirror and flashlight. If that's what you find, use a little lubricant (WINDEX or spit) to lube the ID of the coupler and re-install fully seating the coupler against the throttle body. Rotate the coupler around a bit and confirm no pucker.
I changed out to an SLP coupler which has a little more flex to it.
Did you perform the "idle relearn" procedure? It might help.
Get a small mirror and check the (semi rigid) smooth silicone coupler beneath the throttle body. People buy those things thinking they're an improvement, but I found them to contribute to the same issue you're describing.
The coupler may pucker allowing for an air leak when clamped. It's almost impossible to see w/o the use of a small mirror and flashlight. If that's what you find, use a little lubricant (WINDEX or spit) to lube the ID of the coupler and re-install fully seating the coupler against the throttle body. Rotate the coupler around a bit and confirm no pucker.
I changed out to an SLP coupler which has a little more flex to it.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 141
From: Summerville South Carolina
Great input. I will check the coupler and when it again throws the light, will get the code and post it. It sure is much more responsive.
I don't know the idle relearn procedure , but will do a search for it and try that.Thanks so much.
I don't know the idle relearn procedure , but will do a search for it and try that.Thanks so much.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,240
Likes: 1,091
From: Dyer, IN
Are you saying there is no stored code?
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 141
From: Summerville South Carolina
Yes, I must have cleared it when getting rid of the light. That is, no H codes come up on the DIC when I run the codes. Light has not come in since, but always does in a few miles.