C5 Torque tube tear down and re-build with pics
05-25-2014, 03:35 PM
#81
Melting Slicks
I have my engine, trans/diff and TT out right now. Car is on jack stands. Used a low profile trans jack to hold the trans/diff while lowering the rear cradle. Then lower the trans/diff and torque tube together while checking the firewall. I had the heads off already and there was plenty of clearance.
05-25-2014, 04:21 PM
#82
Instructor
Interesting as I have our car up on stands with the tt and trans/diff out looking for what a think is a shop-induced vibration.
It's really not hard to do. Taking the rear cradle out with the suspension attached is straight forward, just greasy dirty and time. I held the rear of the tt with the trans attached up with a tall heavy duty jack stand. Then the "800 lb" cheapie Harbor Freight transmission jack made getting the trans out easy. It too is straight forward.
There's a diagram on the tt that shows not to drop it below the level where the tunnel plate bolts to the bottom of the chassis. With the tt and trans tilted down in the back there is plenty of room to disconnect cables and wiring, move the left brake line and caliper around to the right side (you don't have to disconnect the brake line) and remove trans bolts.
It's really not hard to do. Taking the rear cradle out with the suspension attached is straight forward, just greasy dirty and time. I held the rear of the tt with the trans attached up with a tall heavy duty jack stand. Then the "800 lb" cheapie Harbor Freight transmission jack made getting the trans out easy. It too is straight forward.
There's a diagram on the tt that shows not to drop it below the level where the tunnel plate bolts to the bottom of the chassis. With the tt and trans tilted down in the back there is plenty of room to disconnect cables and wiring, move the left brake line and caliper around to the right side (you don't have to disconnect the brake line) and remove trans bolts.
Last edited by tracybarnes; 05-25-2014 at 04:25 PM.
05-25-2014, 08:20 PM
#83
Burning Brakes
So, you can drop the tt without tearing out the whole rear? I was under the impression you had to drop the whole rear to replace the clutch because the tt wouldn't come out without doing so.
Guess I didn't read far enough....
Guess I didn't read far enough....
Last edited by Lt. Dan M.; 05-25-2014 at 08:23 PM. Reason: I didn't read all the posts lol
05-25-2014, 10:47 PM
#84
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St. Jude Donor '14
Has anyone pulled the driveshaft out and reinstalled it with the torque tube still in the car? I would think the input shaft and bearing would want to not line up resulting in input shaft bearing and or pilot bearing problems.
05-25-2014, 10:55 PM
#85
Melting Slicks
That would be impossible. The driveshaft(propshaft) resides inside the torque tube. Maybe remove the trans and diff, angle the torque tube down, then pull the propshaft out if it would clear. I'm guessing it would be a lot easier to just drop the tube at that point.
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05-25-2014, 11:45 PM
#86
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St. Jude Donor '14
It's is possible, I know because my tech did it. I was very nervous about what I mentioned above. I do have a slight vibration at about 2200 rpm. I was wondering if anyone has done it and what the results were?
I told him to pull the torque tube before reinstalling the driveshaft. I had one apart that was out of the car and it was a little tricky getting the input bearing centered.
I told him to pull the torque tube before reinstalling the driveshaft. I had one apart that was out of the car and it was a little tricky getting the input bearing centered.
Last edited by martysauto; 05-25-2014 at 11:51 PM. Reason: Added more wording
05-26-2014, 02:19 AM
#87
Drifting
Has anyone pulled the driveshaft out and reinstalled it with the torque tube still in the car? I would think the input shaft and bearingWhich bearing? Pilot bearing or the input shaft bearing? would want to not line up resulting in input shaft bearing and or pilot bearing problems.
It's is possible, I know because my tech did it.Curious did you watch him do it? I was very nervous about what I mentioned above. I do have a slight vibration at about 2200 rpm. I was wondering if anyone has done it and what the results were?
I told him to pull the torque tube before reinstalling the driveshaft. I had one apart that was out of the car and it was a little tricky getting the input bearing centered.
I told him to pull the torque tube before reinstalling the driveshaft. I had one apart that was out of the car and it was a little tricky getting the input bearing centered.
Are you trying to troubleshoot the vibration? What other work has been done? A clutch maybe?
I don't see removing the driveshaft in this fashion to be a really doable job. You'd have to move the trans/dif back far enough to clear the back of the TT with the transmission main shaft. From what I can tell that would cause you to remove the rear cradle, dif, and trans. Then you would have to support the TT with something, being careful not to let it hang. You might as well keep the TT attached to the trans and remove the trans/dif/TT assembly as one unit.
This should probably be another thread so as not to thread jack the OP's "how-to" guide.
05-26-2014, 03:29 PM
#88
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St. Jude Donor '14
Never heard or seen it done. I don't understand your perceived problem.
I'm not being condescending: Are you answering your first question with this post? What are you nervous about? The driveshaft fitting in the TT or the input shaft spline mating with the clutch disk and pilot bearing?
Are you trying to troubleshoot the vibration? What other work has been done? A clutch maybe?
I don't see removing the driveshaft in this fashion to be a really doable job. You'd have to move the trans/dif back far enough to clear the back of the TT with the transmission main shaft. From what I can tell that would cause you to remove the rear cradle, dif, and trans. Then you would have to support the TT with something, being careful not to let it hang. You might as well keep the TT attached to the trans and remove the trans/dif/TT assembly as one unit.
This should probably be another thread so as not to thread jack the OP's "how-to" guide.
I'm not being condescending: Are you answering your first question with this post? What are you nervous about? The driveshaft fitting in the TT or the input shaft spline mating with the clutch disk and pilot bearing?
Are you trying to troubleshoot the vibration? What other work has been done? A clutch maybe?
I don't see removing the driveshaft in this fashion to be a really doable job. You'd have to move the trans/dif back far enough to clear the back of the TT with the transmission main shaft. From what I can tell that would cause you to remove the rear cradle, dif, and trans. Then you would have to support the TT with something, being careful not to let it hang. You might as well keep the TT attached to the trans and remove the trans/dif/TT assembly as one unit.
This should probably be another thread so as not to thread jack the OP's "how-to" guide.
07-02-2014, 12:23 PM
#89
Burning Brakes
Kewl Stuff... Thanks..... As I'm planning on doing this amongst other items to my ride "Hopefully" at the end of this driving season, I'm trying to collect necessary parts for the intended MAJOR OVERHAUL of the entire power/drivetrain system, begining with the engine swap on back. Now I have to find a reputable C5 Transmission shop in the Boston, MA area.
09-03-2014, 04:02 PM
#90
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Identify this noise on shut down?
Can anyone identify this noise..
Car runs fine, happens on shut down only..
Makes noise without belts on so its not any idler pulleys...
Something to do w/ starter possibly??
Car runs fine, happens on shut down only..
Makes noise without belts on so its not any idler pulleys...
Something to do w/ starter possibly??
09-03-2014, 07:20 PM
#91
Instructor
09-03-2014, 07:39 PM
#92
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St. Jude Donor '08
My 02 ZO6 engine rumbles just like yours at idle. I have a 240ish/240ish 610 @ 114+4 Cam. Same fast intake and TB, ported Patriot Stage 2 heads, 12.5 compression
I have a very similar noise. IMHO, its compression from one of the cylinders pissen thru one of almost shut valves. How much overlap do you have and what cam???
Get a mechanics stereoscope and see of you can hear it in one of the intake runners or exhaust header pipe.
It almost sounds like it happening on the same cylinder each time. So does mine.
My engine runs excellent also so,,,, its not a mechanical error or issue.
Bill
I have a very similar noise. IMHO, its compression from one of the cylinders pissen thru one of almost shut valves. How much overlap do you have and what cam???
Get a mechanics stereoscope and see of you can hear it in one of the intake runners or exhaust header pipe.
It almost sounds like it happening on the same cylinder each time. So does mine.
My engine runs excellent also so,,,, its not a mechanical error or issue.
Bill
09-03-2014, 11:26 PM
#93
Burning Brakes
Does it do this when the clutch is in and you turn it off?
03-22-2016, 06:46 PM
#95
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only digging up this old thread because it's the first thing that pops up during google searches. I can't believe it's 5 pages long without a single mention of any torque specs.......do you just make all the bolts feel tight and say good enough?
03-22-2016, 06:58 PM
#96
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St. Jude Donor '08
Bill
03-22-2016, 11:19 PM
#97
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03-25-2016, 04:12 PM
#99
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