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Clutch swap fun!

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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 09:43 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by striper
I drove myself crazy trying to decide from all the clutch choices out there which one to go with. After being honest about my immediate expectations I decided to stick with a new stock replacement Z06 clutch...
If you got 100K happy miles out of the first one, I see no reason to go with any other. My car had a Ram HD and a lightened flywheel put in it (professionally) by the previous owner. It didn't last 6K.

I believe that either the rear main seal, the oil pressure sending unit seal, or some other unknown seal leaked, slinging oil onto the clutch, ruining it. I plan to replace some seals.

Originally Posted by striper
...
BTW, it's not "stripper", it's striper as in custom hand painted pinstriping and other automotive and motorcycle artwork. I've been doing artwork on vehicles for over 30 years in addition to fine art on canvas my entire life. Whether it's tools or paint brushes, I always enjoy working with my hands. Plus I great satisfaction in telling people "I did it myself!"
I figured it was something like that. Just a little good natured teasing.

I miss driving my car too, but as my wife says; for at least half of the 10 years we've been married I've had at least one disassembled car in the garage.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:29 PM
  #22  
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I tinkered with the car a little today.

Did a half-assed job cleaning it, then installed the new rear sway bar, end links, and shocks.

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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 08:05 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by CeeFiveZee
Thanks for stating the obvious. I'm not new to wrenching, just new to wrenching on C5 Corvettes. Repetition should improve the process, however never having pulled the trans/diff/tube from a C5 I'm in the same boat as the OP.

Asking the OP what his time was for the removal is is a good baseline data point for ANYONE contemplating a "first time" clutch job. His through answer was exactly the info I asked for.
Why so harsh man. People here are just trying to help. Private message next time if you don't want to hear from other members.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 12:53 AM
  #24  
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Just started on mine today, in a single stupid tight garage and took out whole assembly out in about 6 hrs, iam doing ACT HD single disc with thier chromemoly Flywheel, looks great but lets how they will work out, its been my third weekend, first did H/C package blower friendly, than A&a SC kit and now clutch....fn tired bro. GL to you and me both. will post pics of mine as well.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:03 AM
  #25  
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You sound like you have a LOT of pictures to post!
I love pictures of people's garage projects.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:16 AM
  #26  
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Be sure to check your old flywheel for weights, Mine had the added extra balance weights and it turned into a big friggin mess
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:27 AM
  #27  
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Right now it's got a lightweight flywheel in it.
I'm having a hard time deciding between regular weight (28 lbs) and lightweight (18 lbs).
Cost isn't really an issue, as it's only a $50 option.
I've read pros and cons about both.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #28  
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The negative to the light one is in daily driving, not so smooth from a stop. But I'm sure you knew that! I stayed with stock because my car is predominately a daily driven street car with only ocassional performance driving situations.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:34 AM
  #29  
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The heavier one is better for drag racing also.
I LOVE how quick the light one revs though.

I'm not building this one to be a drag car.

I honestly could go either way at this point. I've had both. Just something else to debate.

Now: pilot bushing vs. bearing. I can do this ALL DAY!
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 08:46 PM
  #30  
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Look what the magic UPS driver brought me today!


It will NEVER be easier to do a fluid change than while the transmission and rear are out of the car.

Mmmm, Amsoil... Delicious.

I also ordered some stainless header bolts. NO WAY am I putting these rusty ones back in.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #31  
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Don't you have to add some modifier to that 75W-90?
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 11:39 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
Don't you have to add some modifier to that 75W-90?
I just swapped to Amsoil 75-90 and was told that a friction modifier was not required, product is formulated for LSD diffs and my experience with this product validates that.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 11:52 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
Don't you have to add some modifier to that 75W-90?
If not, why do they sell it?
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 01:54 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
Don't you have to add some modifier to that 75W-90?
I use Royal Purple's rear gear oil and you don't have to use the additive with that oil either. As a matter of fact, the latest version of GM's synthetic gear oil has the modifier in it also so the additive is not used with that oil either. I guess it's a thing of the past with old oil tech.
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 01:57 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by HiltonFerg
The heavier one is better for drag racing also.
I LOVE how quick the light one revs though.

I'm not building this one to be a drag car.

I honestly could go either way at this point. I've had both. Just something else to debate.

Now: pilot bushing vs. bearing. I can do this ALL DAY!
With the stock replacement parts I bought the included bearing is a needle roller bearing, same as what I took out.
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 08:20 PM
  #36  
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These are the products shown above:
AMSOIL Torque-Drive Synthetic Transmission Fluid (Product Code ATD1G)
AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w90 (Product Code SVGQT)

I've been using both of these in my 02 Z06 at the track for years.

The Severe Gear 75w90 comes with friction modifier and for the C5/C5 Z06 diff, extra additive is not needed to prevent diff chatter. AMSOIL makes the AMSOIL Slip-Lock Differential Additive (Product Code ADATB) because not all diff's are designed the same, the C6/C6 Z06 diff's being a good example. For those, which are very prone to diff chatter, most do need the extra additive to prevent diff chatter. But not so the C5.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 06:33 PM
  #37  
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I had a GREAT Corvette related day!

Changed the transmission fluid and rear end gear oil, installed new front C6Z06 shocks with the matching sway bar, and finally pulled the clutch out.

The clutch and flywheel are saturated in oil. It may not be the rear main seal. I took a few pictures to get "professional" opinions.


Look at how much oil is over by the starter. Weird.







This is looking up, into the bellhousing.





Thoughts?
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 06:48 PM
  #38  
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Second set of questions:

Do any of you recognize this flywheel?


It's lightweight, but not aluminum.



Think it will work with the Mcleod RST?

I'd have it turned of course.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 06:54 PM
  #39  
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I have a really good condition Spec 3 disc for sale if you're interested.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 07:12 PM
  #40  
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I appreciate it, but I'm going a different route.

I knew a guy from Macon, Georgia about a decade ago.
Paul Ruff. Happen to know him?
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