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On my 98 Vette I had the clutch, flywheel, master cylinder, slave cylinder (all the components) replaced last week. I am continuing to press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to shift, and the pedal feel kind of spongy at the beginning. once or twice I had trouble shifting to second gear, I KNOW THIS IS NOT NORMAL. or is it?
The mechanic said she bleed the system twice and there is nothing else to do to it? What The.......
HOW DOES A NEW CLUTCH SYSTEM SHOULD PERFORM/FEEL?
I am taking my car back to them tomorrow... But so I can understand how a new clutch system should feel/ perform, can you guys tell me how it should feel when shifting? should the gear engage when the pedal is press half way? should the pedal feel a little bit more stiff?
On my 98 Vette I had the clutch, flywheel, master cylinder, slave cylinder (all the components) replaced last week. I am continuing to press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to shift, and the pedal feel kind of spongy at the beginning. once or twice I had trouble shifting to second gear, I KNOW THIS IS NOT NORMAL. or is it?
The mechanic said she bleed the system twice and there is nothing else to do to it? What The.......
HOW DOES A NEW CLUTCH SYSTEM SHOULD PERFORM/FEEL?
What's the going rate in your area for such a job? Did you get a bargain? Then you know what the answer is. If you paid 2000 or so for the job, you need to go back and holler. If you were closer, I'd loan you my .45
The first little bit of travel is soft and then about halfway the clutch will be begin to dissengage and you should feel resistance all the way to floor. The engagement point of the clutch should be halfaway if not more towards the top of the pedal. If it's soft until the bottom of the throw and engagement is as soon as you release the pedal than there is still air in the system, the hydraulics are not working correctly or the gap between the slave and pressure plate is wrong.
What clutch and flywheel setup did you go with?
IMO you should always disengage the clutch fully (fully depress the clutch pedal) when shifting. The engagement point should be towards the top of the pedal.
I went with the factory flywheel and clutch. since my engine remains to be stock.
Then you certainly should have no problems. I upgraded to the Z06 clutch for my 04 coupe and could not tell the difference in travel or pedal resistance.
I'm curious here because your location says California, but did you mean that you took your car to the Vette Doctors in Long Island, New York? If so, then I'm surprised you're having problems. I just did the complete repair on my Z06 myself, slave, master, and complete brand new clutch kit (factory). It sounds to me like you need to get it bled again better. It sounds like there is air still in the system. My clutch felt perfect the first time I stepped on the pedal and I did nothing special. The only thing I'd recommend is that you had a remote bleeder installed. It made it real easy for me to bleed it myself, done right the first time. I'd recommend the one from Total Performance Engineering in Las Vegas, NV. It's a high quality piece and easy to use.
My car is bone stock with just 12,000 miles on her. I feel I really need to push the pedal all the way to the floor to get clean, smooth shifts and the car begins to slowly move when I release the clutch pedal about half way up. I think the pedal resistance is pretty much the same from top to bottom of the pedal travel. Vette Doctors on LI really seem to know their stuff so I'm surprised you are having problems it they did the work for you. Bring it back and bitch.
Yes, I live in California and when I was ask if I took it the the Vette Doctor, I thought you guys meant to say a corvette specialist. I did take my car to a vette specialist, I spoke with them today on the phone and they ask me to drop it off and they will check the clutch system to solve the issue.
I'm sure that you all have read the method of changing the clutch fluid when it gets dirty with the turkey baster and pumping the pedal method. If air in the clutch system was as crucial as the brake system and needing to be bled like that system, how are folks not getting air in their clutch system using that method? And why couldn't the fix for this problem thread be remedied by pumping the pedal?
I'm sure that you all have read the method of changing the clutch fluid when it gets dirty with the turkey baster and pumping the pedal method. If air in the clutch system was as crucial as the brake system and needing to be bled like that system, how are folks not getting air in their clutch system using that method? And why couldn't the fix for this problem thread be remedied by pumping the pedal?
That is not to get air out but to circulate the fluid so you can repeat until the fluid is clear.