I changed the title of this thread since the contents changed from what it was originally and now has more information than its original question.

 

Thermostat while your there.hell headers wont hurt either

 

Hmmm headers yes I wish...LOL I'm doing this to save money.

 

I just had the a/c re-charged on my GMC pick-up, and since the truck is 7 years old, the tech that was doing the job was "on the fence" as to whether the drier should have been replaced. He said that around 7-8 years, is considered a normal life span for them.

I told him to go ahead and swap it, but then he couldn't get one quickly enough that I could have the truck back before the end of the day. However, the truck is currently putting out 33* air, so he thinks that I might be OK for another year or two....

 

replace drier not expensive. flush system a must

 

Yeah I have the PDF from Tim32311 and Junkman, plus my FSM. The instructions have me pulling the two lines out and flushing them off the vehicle then install new orifice tube during re-installation and they get new seals on the compressor side. So yeah I have the master cool flush system. But I understand the rest of the components do not get flushed.

When y'all say "drier" you're talking about the accumulator right?

I thought about that but it wasn't ordered. Maybe I'll check local dealer looks like it retails for around $40. Normally I would pay $19.

The evac and recovery removes about 99%.

All my parts and tools are now in so this project appears to be on for this weekend. Beside the temps are starting to hit the 90 mark and humidity is climbing so this job needs to get done.

 

Got the accumulator for a discount, some dealers will give a discount if you ask if that is their best price, so I got it for $26. David Maus Chevy also evac'd the system for me, so now environment was harmed LOL. Found out about that the process removes nearly all materials during evac/recovery.

So far everything is moving along pretty well, stopped for the night once I got the water pump off. Wow that water pump is huge!

The most significant thing so far was finding out that having to replace my AC compressor and the components ended up being a blessing in disguise. Now you may asked how can such a maintenance procedure be a blessing?

While pulling out the battery, I noticed a small amount of fluid from one cap of the battery the AC-Delco has two caps on top. I looked along side and sure enough there was a trickle of fluid going down the side of the battery. So, once I removed the battery tray and the partition, I could see corrosion had started on the case of the computer. So what a blessing, I would never had seen this trickle running down the side nor have seen the damage developing on the computer and if left alone would have spread to the harnesses. So after cleaning up all the mess of junk that has collected under there for years, and then spraying some electronic cleaner around the casing and fins was able to neutralize and remove the small amount of corrosion.

So the battery goes back to Chevy for a free replacement as it is still under its 30 month free replacement and replacing my AC components saved me further damage to my computer and wire harnesses and whatever else would have been further damage. And I thought mine was super clean, I had no idea.

Now to get moving this morning and finish up getting the compressor and pipes out, flushing and start the installation of all the new parts and fluids.

 

Whew, lucky for you for sure!

I would recommend all the fellas with C5s to check their battery and tray every two years. Once the stuff below is wiped out, very expensive to replace.

When you get done, you will be able to freeze food in your Vette!

 

True true LOL.

Yeah I would like to take some of that battery mat material that is normally put under the battery itself and instead place some above the computer and harness, then put the battery tray on. That way anything going down there would be absorbed by the mat. I'll have to take a few pictures later and see what I can come up with. Has to be a way to protect these items. I tried one time putting that mat material under the battery but it wouldn't allow the battery rear lip to slip under the ledge and be secured. With the tray out it looks like some could be laid down in there then put the tray on, might work.

You sure appreciate the modification on the C6 moving the battery way out into the engine compartment away from the computer.

 

Jet-Jock,

I started this same project yesterday. I got the compressor out yesterday and then had to stop for a BBQ and some refreshments. I have everything out of the car and I am ready to start the flushing process.

The question I have is what components need to be flushed. I have been using Roccoc5 write-up and it is very detailed but it states that he flushes everything-Condenser, evaporator etc. My system was really clean when I disassembled it as my compressor didn't fail, The clutch bearing was squealing.

How are you planning on flushing the system? I can start flushing the lines and condenser one at time I was just curious if you or anyone else has any other detailed info on this process.

I have yet to acquire a FSM so I don't have an exploded view of the a/c system.

Does anyone here have a a/c schematic they could post up?

Good luck with your project!

 

Quick question, what components are you replacing? Let me get you some links and post from my other posts on this.

 

I'm using a combination of these two plus my FSM. For example there is more detail on the other components being disassembled in the FSM specific procedures that often times these write up's don't always have.

If you PM DeeGee he has the abilities to post up sections of the FSM.

http://trans5.com/docs/C5%20AC%20Com...eplacement.pdf

I have found that the order of things listed in this document is not correct. And it will cause you extra hours. Specifically, as the FSM states raise vehicle remove wheel and then remove the 13mm bolt on the compressor tubes assembly. It's nearly impossible until you know the tricks. OMG! You'll need a 1/4" socket set and drive with a universal link, and several extensions to make it about 10-12" long. Then you will come in from the cat which gives almost the best straight on angle to the bolt. Any larger drive size like 3/8's and the heat shield keeps you from getting the 13mm socket with universal on the bolt. It took over 3 hrs to figure this out, lots and lots of patience and once you get it about 15 minutes to remove the bolt. Assembly is equally tricky, put the seals on the tube extensions first, then with small hands carefully feed the bolt into the hold on the pipe assembly then carefully press it into position for the opening in the wheel well area. From the same entry point at the cat feed your extensions setup back in position yourself so you can use your left hand to manipulate the extension and the right fingers to aim the socket to the bolt. Slowly and carefully start the bolt then tighten and put the torque wrench on for 26Nm.

THe reason you cannot remove the lower and upper bolts and nut/stud and move the compressor forward to get to the bolt as described in the pdf, is because there is no resistance to break the bolt free if you could get to it and moving it forward means you would have to add the much more extension to get the straightest line of attack from the cat area. I did this and ended up having to temporarily put the compressor back into position and lightly snug it, so I could then get to that bolt from the cat. Arg that was aggravating.

BTW, the stud bolt on the compressor once loose and the compressor is loose will slide right through the opening so be aware and as soon as the compressor is free and moved forward rotate slightly and pull the stud and front bolt out. Same thing on installation put the stud an bolt in the holes first then position the compressor and start the stud.

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ght=compressor

After the compressor install, install the AC belt, it is much easier to install these belts with the less amount of obstructions.

The next big item is putting the water pump on with six bolts and two separate gaskets by yourself. Here's the trick, set the water pump into the general position and let it rest there on the rack. From the driver's side using several pieces of blue painters tape insert the top and side bolt of the three and push the gasket onto the bolts to hold it there. Put the tape over the bolt to hold it in position. Add the third bottom bolt and tape it. Now very carefully and slowly position the water pump on the driver's side and gently remove the tape holding the outside bolt steady and start it. Just a few threads. And then remove the tape and start the top. Now move back to the passenger side, there is enough room to slip this side gasket into position and feed in the top and outside bolts and start them, then do the same for the bottom. Now take a breath because you got it up there and all bolts started and gaskets in position. Lightly snug up your bolts, then torque them to 15Nm and return and bring them up to 30 Nm.

BTW it took two times the first time I wasn't gentle enough and the gasket slid out of position on the drivers side as I started to start one bolt I accidentally let it slide out while taking the tape off and that let the gasket drop out of position. So, I had pull it back and reposition the gasket again.

This one and the compressor hose item took quiet a bit of examining the problem and figuring out the tricks. Why when people do these write ups they don't spell out the tricks!! I expect the FSM not to tell you but geez.




Then hop over to YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoZone/videos?query=ac

watch these five videos.

 

I added some tricks and tips.

 

Oh just an quick update, the system held a vacuum of 27.5" for over an hour. Did the recharge and was at 35 on the low and 240 on the high for my ambient temp and relative humidity, center vent air on max air was 45°F.

No leaks, everything is all clean and back together and running perfect again. New AC-Delco belts are super quiet along with the absence of noise I thought was normal but instead was my old compressor making all kinds of racket. Now it's very quiet. And just a few cuts and scrapes and sore arms.

Oh and a new battery last night before Maus Chevy closed.

Have to add up my receipts to see how much I saved.

 

This should be fun. Does anyone have a copy of FSM pages used or the pdf listed? The hosting site no longer works. I do have access to Junkman's writeups. I would be most appreciative. Getting ready to order parts.

BTW. Thanks for the tips Jet-Jock.

 

Glad to hear everything went smoothly.

here's what I replaced:

compressor, water pump gasklet, orifice tube, all gaskets and o-rings you remove from the ac system, the debris screen on the intake of the compressor (if you cant get the old one out without damaging it, or don't worry if the new compressor comes with one.), ac belt, and the accumulator.

I flushed out all the lines, condensor, and evaporator.

 

Did you have any kind of specific procedure for the flushing?

 

I sprayed a bunch of the ac flush in there, and just used the rubber tipped blow gun from the air compressor to push it all through. I made sure that I kept the air on for a good while even after I stopped seeing the flush come out to make sure I got it all.