WCC X-pipe Install (tips - no pics)
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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Central Pennsylvania
WCC X-pipe Install (tips - no pics)
Didn't find this anywhere, or any other X-pipe install for that matter.
It's a straight forward install, which is probably why, but after my complications I figured it could use some prefacing.
Here are a few things I would like to have known before beginning...
1.> Lift the X-pipe under the H-pipe and make your marks based on the aft part of the rolled portion -- duh, right? HOWEVER, be prepared to cut more off (as I did) if your x-pipe does not slide all the way on and/or require additional clearance for the exhaust flanges.
Make sure your cut allows room for the H-pipe/X-pipe hanger bolts to line up! Cut further forward if you have to, there is plenty of room after the O2 sensors to cut.
what this means to you...
2.> LUBE! God forbid you need to get it off to re-cut and it's not lubed. The first time I did not lubricate with anything and getting it back off was harder than getting it on in the first place. I just used WD-40 and it worked fine. You will kick yourself if you don't lube it. It is literally, at minimum, 5x easier this way.
3.> The rolled section was still not any bigger than the stock pipe. I used a baseball bat and rolled the "fins" out a bit farther. It only needed millimeters more, but would not go otherwise.
4.> The original pipes were farther apart than the X-pipe's design. An extra set of hands definitely helps. I had one guy brace a crowbar between the pipe and exhaust tunnel to push them closer together while I slid the x-pipe on.
5.> The WCC X-pipe comes with all necessary hardware: U-bolts/nuts, gaskets, rear flange bolts/nuts. HOWEVER, the bolts for the rear flange were too large to fit through the holes on the stock Ti Z06 exhaust I was swapping in for the stock unit. Make sure these fit your exhaust flange holes before installing -- you may need to make a hardware run.
6.> Lastly, simply make sure your exhaust tips line up where you want them before or at least during tightening anything down.
Hope this saves someone a few steps of trial and error.
It's a straight forward install, which is probably why, but after my complications I figured it could use some prefacing.
Here are a few things I would like to have known before beginning...
1.> Lift the X-pipe under the H-pipe and make your marks based on the aft part of the rolled portion -- duh, right? HOWEVER, be prepared to cut more off (as I did) if your x-pipe does not slide all the way on and/or require additional clearance for the exhaust flanges.
Make sure your cut allows room for the H-pipe/X-pipe hanger bolts to line up! Cut further forward if you have to, there is plenty of room after the O2 sensors to cut.
what this means to you...
2.> LUBE! God forbid you need to get it off to re-cut and it's not lubed. The first time I did not lubricate with anything and getting it back off was harder than getting it on in the first place. I just used WD-40 and it worked fine. You will kick yourself if you don't lube it. It is literally, at minimum, 5x easier this way.
3.> The rolled section was still not any bigger than the stock pipe. I used a baseball bat and rolled the "fins" out a bit farther. It only needed millimeters more, but would not go otherwise.
4.> The original pipes were farther apart than the X-pipe's design. An extra set of hands definitely helps. I had one guy brace a crowbar between the pipe and exhaust tunnel to push them closer together while I slid the x-pipe on.
5.> The WCC X-pipe comes with all necessary hardware: U-bolts/nuts, gaskets, rear flange bolts/nuts. HOWEVER, the bolts for the rear flange were too large to fit through the holes on the stock Ti Z06 exhaust I was swapping in for the stock unit. Make sure these fit your exhaust flange holes before installing -- you may need to make a hardware run.
6.> Lastly, simply make sure your exhaust tips line up where you want them before or at least during tightening anything down.
Hope this saves someone a few steps of trial and error.
