When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
...
There is a table called Power Enrichment that is used for telling the O/S what AFR to run while at WOT. The correct way to do this is to set the desired AFR in this table and then tune your maf table so the AFR that is being spit out corresponds to the AFR you set in the PE table.
...
Can't say I agree. MAF and VE should be dialed in on the street during normal driving conditions. Both are used during partial throttle to reach stoich. Adjusting one without the other is a worse hack than setting the PE table to inaccurate values (but reaching the desired AFR). Both of them are the wrong ways, but the latter is the lessor of two evils, in my opinion.
Can't say I agree. MAF and VE should be dialed in on the street during normal driving conditions. Both are used during partial throttle to reach stoich. Adjusting one without the other is a worse hack than setting the PE table to inaccurate values (but reaching the desired AFR). Both of them are the wrong ways, but the latter is the lessor of two evils, in my opinion.
What? What you are saying has absolutely nothing to do with what I was describing.
Of course you dial in the VE/Maf part throttle but what does that have to do with what I said regarding PE and Maf in terms of WOT fueling?
You clearly stated that you should change the MAF table until the actual AFR matches the commanded AFR in PE. That is not how to properly calibrate the MAF table, as it will also have an affect on transient fuel calculations under normal driving.
It is absolutely the proper way to calibrate the high frequency (wot) cells by using lambda error. You set your PE to your desired AFR and dial in your maf table until your error is 0%, or as close to 0% as possible.
You do the same for the lower frequencies (part throttle), although PE may or may not come into play at that point. But that does not matter if you are tuning based off lambda error. After all, it is just commanded lambda vs actual lambda.
I gave a simplistic explanation because the OP has never tuned a car. It was fairly obvious we were talking about WOT only in this thread considering the thread title and attached dyno graph.
I gave a simplistic explanation because the OP has never tuned a car. It was fairly obvious we were talking about WOT only in this thread considering the thread title and attached dyno graph.
And remember that it pings at low rpm, high load/gear conditions..as I described earlier..
It is absolutely the proper way to calibrate the high frequency (wot) cells by using lambda error. You set your PE to your desired AFR and dial in your maf table until your error is 0%, or as close to 0% as possible.
You do the same for the lower frequencies (part throttle), although PE may or may not come into play at that point. But that does not matter if you are tuning based off lambda error. After all, it is just commanded lambda vs actual lambda.
I gave a simplistic explanation because the OP has never tuned a car. It was fairly obvious we were talking about WOT only in this thread considering the thread title and attached dyno graph.
Explaining tuning to someone who is unfamiliar doesn't have to be complicated. Giving someone table names and, an incomplete guide to WOT fueling, is misleading for novices.
It seems we both agree on the ultimate answer to the OP's question, and frankly, that's all that matters. Based upon the dyno graph, I'd suspect something is amiss in the tune, rather than a mechanical failure (ignition, fuel system, etc.).
I bought the car from a the son of a used car salesman in Rutherfordton. He didn't seem to know much about it...and said the previous owner had the boltons installed and tuned.
I wish you guys were closer so I could just come take it to you. The local guys here are wanting $$$$ to tune it..
And remember that it pings at low rpm, high load/gear conditions..as I described earlier..
Right, your maf/ve tables are most likely wayyyyyyyyyyyyy the hell off. Probably out of the range that the 02 sensors can correct for (assuming they are still turned on, who knows).
I feel for you, because taking it to another dyno shop could result in the same thing. So many tuners out there that charge $500 and simply do a PE hackup. I would get a mail order tune from ECS since your car is just headers.