More electrical problems (1997)
Anyway, my current problem is the usual security head ache. Lately the car won't start, and I get either the reduced power message or the pull key wait 10 second message. Last summer I did the VATS bypass, the column lock bypass, and also rebuild my ignition switch which indeed had a few burnt contacts (thanks again for the write-up). This seemed to get me through the rest of the summer with minimal problems. I would still get the pull key message on occasion, but a few tries it would run just fine.
I'm wondering now if the ignition cylinder itself could be the culprit. I've noticed that sometimes when i turn the key to off, the entire cylinder seems to push back a little to the right and keep it from being in the off position. I've noticed this because sometimes when i remove the key, the security light will begin to blink and the radio will turn off (w/ the door open), other times the light doesn't blink...and the radio keeps playing, almost like the key is still in the ignition. Often it seems to function as it should, light blinks / radio off....I shut the door, get a few feet away, and hear the radio fire back up on it's own. Obviously when this happens and i'm not around, the radio plays all night, drains my battery, and causes the neighbors to hear a lot of four letter words when i get up for work.
This weekend I'm planning on rebuilding the ignition switch again to see if I have any new problems there, and possibly going through and cleaning all of the grounds throughout the car....but wondering if anyone has any advice as to whether or not I should just order the new ignition cylinder.
Any advice is greatly appreciated
Thanks



