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Is there a link on doin that. Would it make sense air got in there cause car over heated n was bubbling real bad in over flow. Rad was blocked with crap between rad n condenser. Its all clean now. I bad thermo would make rad hot rite. This rads cold as can be when cars hot
Have you checked to see that the coolant level is at the required cold mark on the end of the surge tank? Completely cold radiator sounds like either no coolant or perhaps the radiator is internally plugged???
What was the color of the coolant that was boiling out? If it was a muddy brown color then the radiator may be plugged internally...
it doesn't take much....you can get a new GM radiator for under $150
Yup actually the day before it happened i top off all my fluids. The over flow didnt take much at fluid at all. My gf was driving so not sure how fluid looks. Looks good in tank though. Hoses where also cold as rad rite up to engine.
Yup actually the day before it happened i top off all my fluids. The over flow didnt take much at fluid at all. My gf was driving so not sure how fluid looks. Looks good in tank though. Hoses where also cold as rad rite up to engine.
really sounds like water is not moving through radiator
so...clogged radiator or impeller failed inside water pump or tstat stuck closed (unlikely)
Well last year i replaced both those when this happened n ended up bein stuff between radiator n condenser. Since i lowered car its like a vacuum for crap between the rad n cond
Well last year i replaced both those when this happened n ended up bein stuff between radiator n condenser. Since i lowered car its like a vacuum for crap between the rad n cond
hmmm...I guess you can drain and refill and see what happens...outside of that I got nuthin
I hoping its air in System . Then if not who knows where to begin. I reading people with same sorta problem saying they went thru everything n ending up changing raditor even tbought it seemed to be in great shape. Both times it cured problem. Hopefully it just sucked some air when it got . Would that be typical way to get air in system?
I hoping its air in System . Then if not who knows where to begin. I reading people with same sorta problem saying they went thru everything n ending up changing raditor even tbought it seemed to be in great shape. Both times it cured problem. Hopefully it just sucked some air when it got . Would that be typical way to get air in system?
I hear ya...anything is possible...when you refill it you can crack the bleeders till the coolant runs so you know it is full and the start it and let it run until it cycles through..if it heats up again I would say the stat is bad/stuck.
So guys i bleed air fron the hose on that pipe that crosses over from head to head. Instantly air came out for about 2 seconds then anti freeze. I put hose back on n temp is perfect running parked for twenty minutes. Got up to 230 or so fan came on n car cooled n stayed at the one line below 220. So now my questions r..... what made it take on air. Was it from over heating? Which i believe was from tons of stuff between rad n condencer. Also shud i bleed it again? Seems fine i hate to mess it up. Thanks for bleeding tips guys, i done it otherway with running car n shutting off ect n never ever had i work.
So guys i bleed air fron the hose on that pipe that crosses over from head to head. Instantly air came out for about 2 seconds then anti freeze. I put hose back on n temp is perfect running parked for twenty minutes. Got up to 230 or so fan came on n car cooled n stayed at the one line below 220. So now my questions r..... what made it take on air. Was it from over heating? Which i believe was from tons of stuff between rad n condencer. Also shud i bleed it again? Seems fine i hate to mess it up. Thanks for bleeding tips guys, i done it otherway with running car n shutting off ect n never ever had i work.
hard to say why you got air in the system...check your hose that connects to the bottom of the reservoir ...that area is known to leak.
you can always crack the bleeders again if you wanna be sure but usually if you have coolant running out you are good.
check out the post above that i started. this drove me crazy. i dont know what fixed it. but i can definitely say that it was sucking air. i think that you have a leak somewhere.
I would drive the car for a few days and then when it is cold burp it one more time. The 230 number while ideling is still higher than I would want on my own car. I know others are going to disagree with that but if the system is operating up to snuff, no reason to be at 230 ideling unless the outside air temp is over 100.
you also may have a bad fan (BTDT) make sure they are both coming online or your radiator fins are full of ****...check the AC condenser as well ...230 is pushing it
It actually idled at one or two marks before the 220 for like ten minutes. Took like 15 minutes to get to what ev temp kicks fan on. Soon as fan came on it went down the below 220 n stayed there. It was like 65 degrees out. I blew rad n condenser out real gud with air. I wanna do it more with water before putting back together. The electric fans need to come out to clean it gud, can i just pop that out, i dont see any bolts. Thanks again cant amagine doin this stuff without ur guys help. I be lost..lol. in my bliwn big block chevy i run wetter water n that totally cooled my car down a solid twenty degrees. Can this be used in my vette? I also thinkin since they so cheap maybe just out a rad in it. Its a 2002 with 45,000 miles. It looks mint but for but 200 i can replace rad n get a 160 thermostat. Then i know thats gud for sure.