Hi Folks:
I'm almost done with getting my 98 Vert 6-Spd, 80k miles, sorted. Any suggestions to solve the last few items? I've searched all over the forum, but nothing's helped...No DIC codes at all, cleaned most of the ground connections, especially in the engine compartment.
1. Lumbar short: When I put the lumbar fuse in, there's a "click" on the right side of the console just forward of the e-brake. It creates a battery drain. Already replaced the seat switch. All lumbar functions work fine, but I have keep the fuse pulled.
2. Ignition click: When its cooler outside (< 50 degrees) and the car sits for several days, I often turn the key and get a "click". Rarely is there the "Pull Key 10 Sec" message during my attempts. All electrics work. After 8-12 attempts, it always fires up. Same with my older and newer key, pellets are clean, checked the starter connections below-all good. Battery connections tight.
3. Remote range is very weak. I always have to get close (within a few feet) to the driver side to get it to work. Never works near the passenger side. I've already replaced the battery and cleaned the contacts inside.
Thanks for any advice!

 

What's the battery voltage (the one under the HOOD)?

 

Here's my thoughts.

1. In other threads, users have reported the seats being a power drain. Does your lumbar controls actually work properly when you put the fuse in? On both seats? They are supposed to be intermittent when buttons are pressed, so a constant draw is bad. A volt meter/ammeter will help you track it down if you've already replaced the switch. I'll upload the left & right seat electrical diagrams in a minute.

2. If the click is coming from under the hood, I will guess the starter solenoid plunger is having a hard time. Did you confirm the battery is healthy? The next time it happens, you could try throwing on jumper cables to rule out the battery. If it still continues, you can confirm by jacking up the car and use a jumper to short the starter's smaller terminal to the big one. If it just clicks, this is a physical failure in the solenoid. I believe it can be replaced separately, no need to replace the whole starter assembly.

3. The pre-01 RFA is the receiver for both key fobs and TPMS, and has two rabbit ear antennas. It is located behind the passenger seat, tucked up above the rear wheel well. You might check for broken ears or anything obvious. Or if any noise reducing foil-covered insulation was installed up there, it may be blocking the signal. There are many folks who have "upgraded" their older RFAs to 01+, so you should be able to get another one for around $40 in the for-sale section. I happen to have one if you're interested.

If you figured out #1 after a couple of dead-battery discoveries, you may have injured the battery enough causing #2. There are 3 relays on each lumbar control board, and is almost certainly the click you're hearing. Did you replace the driver's seat switch, or passenger's?

 

I haven't checked the voltage at the battery (only OBD), but based on toddk's feedback (thank you and dougbfresh very much), I have some more investigating to do. I'll report back. Much appreciated!

 

I replaced the drivers side seat switch. Toddk-Do you know exactly where the RFA is located? I looked all around the area behind the passenger seat above the wheel well, and no dice. Do I need to take a panel out, like the one with the speaker?

 

If the clicking sound is coming from the area around the passenger seat, I would guess the passenger lumbar is the problem. Do it's lumbar controls work properly? Either the switch panel or a stuck relay on that side (use diagram above to diagnose). For a quick confirm, you could try disconnecting the passenger seat completely, put the lumbar fuse in, and look for the power draw (or listen for lack of click).

Near the tonneau cover hinge point, tucked up above the wheel well, and right near the horizontal part of the body panel. With the antennae, the whole device is 19" long, running front-to-back so it's hard to miss. The 2nd pic in this thread is exactly where it is, and what it looks like: 2290419-upgraded-tpms.html It looks like they had to pull the carpet back, which may be the case for the 'vert. I've got an '02, and the newer RFA is exposed so it does not require carpet removal.

Low voltage may also cause the RFA range to diminish. Do you have 2 fobs to test with?

Hope this helps!

Todd

 

Well, #1 is solved all thanks to Todd. Thanks, man! It was the passenger-side seat switch, which had some corrosion near some pins. I replaced it with the old driver-side switch, which apparently didn't need to be replaced in the first place. I first disconnected the power to the passenger side, then put in the lumbar fuse-no click! The old driver-side switch works just fine now on the passenger side. Great suggestion!
Now, regarding the RFA module, I found it on the driver's side. No apparent problems with it or the antennae. I checked the connector and didn't see any issues, so maybe I'll consider replacing it. I only have one fob to test it. I should note that my wheels don't have sensors, put I doubt that would negatively impact the fob functions...

 

Glad to hear you got to the root cause. And glad to help.

On the key fob range issue, it takes 2 pieces to successfully communicate - the transmitter and the receiver. If you had 2 fobs and they both behaved the same, the RFA is 100% the issue. The TPMS are also transmitters, so if they were also intermittent it may indicate the RFA. With just one key fob it's not as certain.

If you have any buddies with a pre-01 C5, you can train up one of their fobs with your car to see how it's range is.

Todd

 

Thanks again, Todd. I'll see what I can do to get my hands on another pre-01 fob.