Hi everyone,

I have a few pictures for you(they might be jumbled up but you should get the idea of want i am wanting to know). Long story short I replaced the well known problem with the early (1997) c5's oil sending unit. It works. But when I was putting the manifold back on I couldn't remember where a few things went. Also when I started the car there is a sound like a vacuum hose that is leaking or wasn't connected right. Note that i started the car with the hose/connector not hooked up (as designated with red arrows in the picture). would these things cause a vacuum leak somehow?

This is my first time on the forum so I am sorry if the explanation is not very clear.

P.S. I also broke the plastic clamp (not a big problem) shown in the bottom 2 pictures. I was wondering if anyone knew what the clamp(well i guess it is not a "clamp") was called, if not its not a big deal.

Thank You
This is the hose where I couldn't find where it goes.


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(The picture below is just a zoomed out version of the one above)


Below is the clamp I was talking about
[IMG][/IMG]

This once again is a zoomed out one for the one above.

 

The hose in picture one vents to fresh air. It's fine.
Nothing connects there in picture 2.

Oh my gad why all that dirt?

 

You might try another a different approach for futue maintenance. Take pictures before the work, and then you'll know how everything was assembled.....before you took it apart.

 

You are right I should have. But unfortunately I didn't.

 

I can't see if you reattached everything correctly on the manifold or not. Did you get the skinny hose on the rear for the HVAC actuators?

Also I don't have that bracket on the back of my alternator. Am I supposed to?

 

I don't think you have to have that bracket but it is nice to have. See I am not 100% everything is correctly sealed and all. But I do know this my engine runs just as it has before. You would think if you had a vacuum leak of some sort, your engine would run terrible? Is it possible my manifold did not seal correctly?

O and I can't really tell you why my engine is that dirty. Never thought much of it.

 

Not true. It connects to a fitting on the left side of the accordian, just forward of the throttle body.

 

That hose in picture #1 (with the 2 red arrows) is connected to your fuel pressure regulator and the other end should go up to your air bellows coupler at the front of your throttle body. This line is only used on '97s and '98s with the fuel pressure regulator attached to the fuel injector rail.

It is item #7 in the illustration below:

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssem...&searchString=

 

Lonestar, thank you for the link it was very helpful. I just have one more question about the sound i am hearing. See i removed the manifold without replacing the gaskets. My car has 110k miles on it. Is it possible my seals are worn and leaking(thus the vacuum/suction sound i am hearing) or did i need to put something on them before i bolted it back down? these are the original seals.

 

Oh yeah look at that. When I bought mine it didn't have the stock air intake on it. From what I read, it was fine to let it vent.

 

Possible, but the more likely cause was already mentioned in post #5.

 

Don't think that you're the only one that ever forgot where something connects to or how something goes back together.

You're just one of US that will admit it!

 

OP: If you should decide to replace your intake manifold gaskets, do not use any sealer/adhesive/glue of any kind. Just make sure they're positioned correctly in the grooves they fit into on the manifold and also make sure to torque the manifold down to the correct INCH POUND setting in the recommended sequence. Personally I like to make two passes when torqueing.

 

No. Only the '97s and '98s had it. It was discontinued by GM as unnecessary as the main alternator bracket is so rigid, plus it also acts as an unintended source of heat being sent to the alternator. It was gone on the '99 models.

If I had a '97 or '98 I would remove it permanently.

 

It's not uncommon for the small vacuum line at the rear of the intake manifold to be overlooked by first-timers, mainly because it's so short in the first place. I, and many others, have installed a small rubber hose extension to help matters when re-installing the manifold.

 

.....and GM agrees with you...

Tighten intake manifold bolts a first pass in sequence to 5 N·m (44 lb in).
Tighten intake manifold bolts a final pass in sequence to 10 N·m (89 lb in).

 

Yep, I'm about 1/2 way paranoid when torqueing anything plastic in the first place. Aluminum runs a close second and the time it takes to clean threads and apply a dab of anti-seize to bolts is nothing compared to what can happen when you don't.