Clutch fluid swap part #
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From: Porter Texas
Clutch fluid swap part #
I ran across a thread one night with the turkey basters and the small sized hose part # used to insert it down into the clutch line. Use the baster to force the dirty fluid up the line and out into the reservoir. For the life of me I can not find that damn thread again! 
I've looked daily for the past two weeks and finally decided I need help finding it. Thanks for any help 
I've looked daily for the past two weeks and finally decided I need help finding it. Thanks for any help
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From: Western NY
Suck the reservoir dry with the turkey baster, fill the reservoir half full with fresh fluid, put the cap back on, and pump the clutch pedal 3-4 times. Empty the reservoir, and repeat a couple more times...
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From: Porter Texas
Not if you use it the exact same way a doctor would use a needle. Ensure that there are no air pockets in the hose by squirting some out(same as they do with a needle) and then dont pump the turkey baster completely dry (so you are not inserting air into the line). There is a thread on this forum somewhere that had many replies on it. I know for sure there are several people that have done it and have done away with the need to swap out the reservoir fluid umpteen times. Doing it that way forces a vast majority more of the bad fluid out along with all the crud suspended in it thru the small reservoir hole and into the reservoir where it is easily sucked out using a separate baster.
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From: Porter Texas
The people on the thread were much more knowledgeable about the procedure and instructions than I am. Hence why I'm just trying to find it again and follow their lead. They have part #'s for the small diameter line that they use for it. (line has to be small enough to fit into the hole and flexible yet hard enough to be forced down into the line without crimping up on itself) if anybody can point me in the right direction of that thread I'd sure appreciate it!
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From: Porter Texas
Lol my apologies! I never fully explained the other half. I meant to say that you use the new baster attached to the hose and suck up new fluid straight out of the bottle. Once that is loaded with good fresh fluid THEN you insert it down into the line. Squeeze the baster (once ensuring there are no air pockets) and the good fresh fluid enters the line pushing the old dirty fluid up out of the line into the reservoir where you can easily access it and use another baster to remove the bad fluid out of the reservoir. Do that until you have clean clear fluid coming into the reservoir and wala! This whole thing just prevents you from having to repeatedly replace the old fluid in the reservoir with fresh fluid. Then drive. Then come back and redo the same steps you just did. Does that help?
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From: Porter Texas
Yeah JC I've already done the ranger method. And also watched this same video from his website. I know how he does it and why. I'm just trying to find the thread of what I explained because it's basically the ranger method on steroids. Thanks though.
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From: The Woodlands Texas
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From: Boiling Springs Pennsylvania
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Get a turkey baster with a needle on the end (screw on); Then get a 1/8" shrink tube and slip it over the needle. Apply heat to the end with the needle inserted and you have a sealed end. The rest of the shrink tubing is rigid enough to slip down the hole at the bottom of the reservoir. It works great!
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From: Porter Texas
Well I got this done about a week ago. Shocking to see how much black fluid/material came out of the line. After all was said and done it looked about the equivalent to used engine oil. The pedal still sticks but it has improved thats for sure. Will end up doing this again this week as I have a long trip back to texas in the z in 2 weeks! Thanks again gents for the help.
