Air Conditioning Issue (02 Z)
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
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Air Conditioning Issue (02 Z)
The law of AC has held true, and just as the temperature here has started to ascend, I just started having problems with my AC today. When I press the AC button, the light flashes on for a second, the engine revs by about 200 rpm, and then the light turns off. It then repeats this every 1-2 seconds until I turn it off all together. I went ahead and popped the hood and noticed a whining, whirring sound coming from the compressor every time the light flashed on.
The thing that puzzles me is that it hasn't thrown an error code. I'm guessing that the compressor or the compressor clutch has gone bad, but I want to make sure that's it before I go dropping money on a replacement.
The thing that puzzles me is that it hasn't thrown an error code. I'm guessing that the compressor or the compressor clutch has gone bad, but I want to make sure that's it before I go dropping money on a replacement.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 328
From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
I would check the A/C freon 1st----Low levels will make the compressor "cycle" as you describe---You can take it to a shop or get a tester at O'Riellys/Autozone-they are cheap-
If the gauge shows it to be low---you can easily add some--It's now legal to purchase--then check level again---Low freon will make the compressor chatter as well---
If the gauge shows it to be low---you can easily add some--It's now legal to purchase--then check level again---Low freon will make the compressor chatter as well---
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
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Okay, that's a much more favorable theory. I haven't had it recharged in the two years that I've owned it, and I don't know when the PO had it last done, either. What type of gauge would I need to check it, and would it be cheaper for me to just take it to the shop?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 67
From: Bahama North Carolina
Taking it to a shop would be a better choice but certainly not cheaper. You could try just adding a can of freon (actually 134a) and see what the results are. The cars are picky about the pressures so you might end up taking it to the shop anyway.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
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I tried charging the coolant. I think more of it got on me and on the driveway than in the system, because it seemed like the nozzle didn't fit over the low pressure port very well. However, it was running (and still making the whirring noise) for longer before turning off and on again and was also producing cold air. I guess I'll see how it goes tomorrow and possibly put it in the shop to have it done professionally.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Lafayette La
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I'm thinking maybe I have a leak somewhere. When I first fired up the AC on the way home from work, it was running fine and blowing cool air. By the time I got close to home, it had turned hot and was making a pretty nasty sound again. I also smelled refrigerant when I was at a stoplight. I turned it off until I got back to my driveway, parked the car, and tried turning it on again. This time, it almost stalled the engine and started making a pretty loud whirring/screeching sound.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 328
From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
You can buy refridgerant that has a DYE in it (usually yellow) and run it awhile--Then check under the hood and see it there are any leaks The dye shows up easily---- ALSO Do you have LT headers ?? If so--A common issue is the one of the A/C lines comes very close to or actually touches a header tube-on the pass side--Fix is to bend the A/C line carefully away as far as you can from the tube and then wrap it with insulation--If this line is too close it would blow cold and then settle to hot--as the engine warms--
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
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Welp. Apparently the compressor **** the bed and took the condenser with it. Shop quoted me $1700 including labor (using non-Delco parts).
It looks like the problem is that it launched debris into the system, thus requiring an entire system flush. That's not to mention the rest of the labor that goes into it.
It looks like the problem is that it launched debris into the system, thus requiring an entire system flush. That's not to mention the rest of the labor that goes into it.