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Muffler hanger bolts lost during installation

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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Default Muffler hanger bolts lost during installation

While trying to install new mufflers on my C5 coupe, I pushed the bolts that attach the muffler hanger to the steel bumper section up into the bumper and I can't retrieve them. There isn't any access to the interior that I can see. I was hoping someone would know how to reach these bolts. A photo of the bolts I'm referring to is shown below. The picture implies they go through the bumper from the top, but they are actually inside the tube.

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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 10:08 PM
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Someone may confirm or refute this, but I am fairly sure that the bolts are attached to each other, via a thin piece of metal that is attached between the bolts to the bumper itself. this gives them a sort of "springy" feeling as they hang there. You may get lucky and be able to pull the bottom of the bolts back toward the hole with a wire, screwdriver, or something like that.

Jack
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 10:22 PM
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Each side is attached together and there is a retaining washer only on one of the bolts. So, if you pushed one up you might be able to work the other side and get it back.

If you can't fish them out then you have to pull the bumper cover to get in there. I'd get some of those retaining washers for all the bolts to stop it from happening again.
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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This is what the assembly looks like.

Also is a picture of a body crush nut.
Best for members to install these on each threaded post, tight up against the crash bar to hold the hidden top clip in place, when removing the nuts.
That way, this will never happen.

In a minute, I'll post up a picture of where these clips live.



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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 10:45 PM
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Same thing happened during one of my muffler changes, too. I ended up drilling a hole approx 1" diameter between the existing holes. Gave me enough room to get a finger in there and move the pair of bolts back into place. The rubber muffler mount covers the hole when you are done.

Steve
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 10:50 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577763200-post1.html



http://forums.corvetteforum.com./c5t...be-put-in.html
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 11:04 PM
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Thanks! for the info. I'll try drilling a hole tomorrow - should work.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 07:19 AM
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How about "fishing around" with a magnet?
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 08:08 AM
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Got up this morning, drilled the hole, found the piece and jockeyed it into place. Problem solved! Thank you for the tips gentlemen.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by tbrowne
Got up this morning, drilled the hole, found the piece and jockeyed it into place. Problem solved! Thank you for the tips gentlemen.
What's jockeyed??
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by tbrowne
Got up this morning, drilled the hole, found the piece and jockeyed it into place. Problem solved! Thank you for the tips gentlemen.
Glad it worked for you.

Steve


What's jockeyed?? Jockeyed==moved around til it was in the right place.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 02:37 PM
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Default Tail Light Solution

When it happened to me - I removed one of the rear tail lights and reached in - as I remember.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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Jockeyed: To direct or maneuver by cleverness or skill: jockeyed the car into a tight space.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Snidley
Same thing happened during one of my muffler changes, too. I ended up drilling a hole approx 1" diameter between the existing holes. Gave me enough room to get a finger in there and move the pair of bolts back into place. The rubber muffler mount covers the hole when you are done.

Steve
Ugh this just happened to me! :-( Now from what I understand those two bolts are attached to each other via a thin strip of metal that I believe is welded to the actual frame I'm not sure if that is correct but if I drill a hole in the center wont it drill through that thin piece of metal that holds the two bolts intact? what I was thinking is to drill a hole just to the right that way I can push the only bolt that isn't pushed up through the hole then just push it down bending the metal back into place and the bolt back in through the hole. I too tried the magnet to pull the bolt down... But because that thin piece of metal is bent it would take a whole lot more force to bend it back into place. I'd like to avoid removing rear bumper at all costs

Last edited by c6speedjon; Apr 1, 2013 at 08:43 AM.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 09:25 AM
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The two threaded studs & flat plate are not welded to the inside of the tube or any thing else.

The two studs drop through the two holes.

As you can see in the pictures the two studs & flat plate are of one piece.

Once you pushed one side up too far they (both threaded studs & flat plate) flipped over into the confines of the tube.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 09:42 AM
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Ok but the other bolt is being held in by that lock washer thus holding the bolt in place. If I drill in between it will go through the frame AND plate making it no longer connected. That's the only thing that's keeping it from moving is the fact that one bolt is still locked into place. So it looks like my options are to remove the back bumper and foam or drill a hole NOT in between the two holes but to the side of the hole that the bolt is pushed up... Then push the bolt back down through the hole. UGH...
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 09:50 AM
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Please read the posts/thread carefully.

I simply suggested using (buying & installing) /incorporating the flat crush nut to the ends of the threaded studs while they are in their proper positions

through the two holes in the rear tube/crash bar.
If this is done, there is no way , once you remove the two factory nuts that the studs/bracket will be able to flip into the tube.

The two crush nuts will keep that from happening.
Hope this all makes sense to you...now?
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
Please read the posts/thread carefully.

I simply suggested using (buying & installing) /incorporating the flat crush nut to the ends of the threaded studs while they are in their proper positions

through the two holes in the rear tube/crash bar.
If this is done, there is no way , once you remove the two factory nuts that the studs/bracket will be able to flip into the tube.

The two crush nuts will keep that from happening.
Hope this all makes sense to you...now?
you must not understand what I am saying. I understand what you are saying, but we are past that, only one side has a lock washer on it which prevents it from moving right now. I pushed up the other side bending the flat piece of metal inside the rear tube/crash bar. so what I am saying is some have suggested to push the one side back into place, if you drilled a hole in the center it would ruin that plate or in fact if it didn't go through it push the bolt up even further.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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[QUOTE=c6speedjon;1583518867]you must not understand what I am saying. I understand what you are saying, but we are past that, only one side has a lock washer on it which prevents it from moving right now. I pushed up the other side bending the flat piece of metal inside the rear tube/crash bar. so what I am saying is some have suggested to push the one side back into place, if you drilled a hole in the center it would ruin that plate or in fact if it didn't go through it push the bolt up even further.[/QUO

Here is what you need to do....I think???

The side that you say that you have a lock nut??? on

If it is only the crush nut??? thread the crush nut backwards/loosen about a1/4", then install the factory nut up to where the crush nut is.
Thais will now give you some wiggle room to turn the bent???? part that is up inside the crash bar, to where the other threaded stud is alligned to the other hole.

I can't for the life of me figure out how you could have possibly have bent that flat plat that lives up in the crash bar???

Take your time & have patience.

Last edited by bumble-z; Apr 1, 2013 at 02:31 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:37 PM
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Got it figured out. I did what u suggested and got it to come down for me! Thanks!
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