Just finished doing the Big-3 Upgrade which I have been putting off for some time. Yeah... I know, I know... you can do the same for a buck-ninety-eight at the local parts store, but after sinking tens of thousands in mods, what another $125!

Anyway, here is my version of the upgrade using Stinger Pro Series 4-Gauge Power Wires. A list of all the parts I used are listed at the end.

First the Chassis to Engine Ground...
I attached one end to a pre-threaded hole in the LS-1 Passenger side head and attached the other end to a gold-plated grounding terminal that I screwed to the passenger side frame with two self-tapping screws.





Next was adding one end of a second Battery Negative Ground Wire to the frame (where the other stock grounds below the battery are located). Of course, the stock Grounding Stud broke off when loosening the nut, so I had to use another self-tapping screw to replace it.



Next was installing the Main Red Power Line from the Alternator to the Battery Positive Terminal and installing a fuse as close to the battery as possible.





The last step was to connect everything up to the battery using the new Stinger Terminals.




I kept all the Stock wiring in place via the battery side terminals.

I also ran a second Red Power wire to the B+ Fuse Box terminal.

All seems to be working fine so far.

I purchased all the parts from Darvex as follows:

QTY 1
SKU SHT301
PRODUCT Stinger HPM Digital Battery Terminal

QTY 1
SKU SPD8601
PRODUCT Stinger Inline MAXI Fuse Holder


QTY 2
SKU BSB12
PRODUCT 4 Gauge Power Wire 1/2" Snap Bushing Grommet


QTY 1
SKU SPT8213
PRODUCT Stinger PRO 4 Gauge Ground Terminal


QTY 1
SKU SPT8144
PRODUCT Stinger 4 Gauge Crimp Ring Terminals


QTY 1
SKU SHT303
PRODUCT Stinger Negative Battery Terminal


QTY 1
SKU SPF5620
PRODUCT Stinger 20 Amp MAXI Fuse


QTY 7 Feet
SKU SPW14TR
PRODUCT Stinger PRO Series 4 Gauge Red Power / Ground Wire


QTY 4 Feet
SKU SHW14B
PRODUCT Stinger HPM Series 4 Gauge Blue Power / Ground Wire


QTY 1
SKU CC-06
PRODUCT XScorpion Heavy Duty Electrical Wire & Cable Cutter and Stripper

 

Looks great.

I made mine, using Kolossus Fleks cable and terminals from knukoncepts. Im using their rca's as well. Should be a good upgrade on a composite bodied car.

Are you upgrading the alternator and/or adding a battery?

 

No, I am not adding a battery or changing the alternator - all I have is the stock radio. I just did this to help strengthen the stock wiring and hoping that it might help me diagnose the voltage drop I get at traffic lights when stopped and the engine is warm. No such luck, but at least that eliminates the primary wiring as the culprit and should not "hurt" to have the extra system in place.

I previously replaced the battery, the alternator, the starter and the ignition switch at different times (with new stock GM replacements except for the Optima battery of which I have had three), but I have had this voltage drop problem for years now - very frustrating. When the engine first starts up cold, the voltage is always fine (about 13.8v on the gauge which is about .6 volts below the reading at the battery). For the first 10-15 minutes of driving it is fine, after that every time I come to a stop the voltage slowly drops sometimes to about 11.2 volts on the gauge and sometimes the engine starts to stumble at that point like it is going ti die, so I throw it into neutral and it climbs back up. I get no codes. I have just gotten in the habit of throwing the transmission in neutral at every red light... bummer.

My best guess is that I got TWO new bad Valeo alternators (with bad regulators), but what are the odds? Dealership never could locate the problem, but they replaced both the alternator and starter under warranty trying to fix it.

One time I was able to clean the butterfly on the throttle body and that fixed the problem completely for a while for several months - so it was a mechanical fix to an electrical issue (something to do with an idle sensor as I recall). That fix has not worked since.

 

What you installed is complete overkill for a factory system. That gauge wire completely exceeds what the factory system is capable of operating at...even at full load. The factory wiring is designed based on the alternator output, and possible full load ...at any given time. By the way, routing a power wire, directly over a fuel line, is bad practice all day long. I don't care what it's clad in.

 

 

I did the same thing, but different parts, late last year. I kept getting a drop in volts too, at random times. I replaced the same parts as you too, except I had my alternator rebuilt, I read that Vettes were super finicky when it came to alternators. However that didn't last on my car either. Last time I drove my car, June 20th, my new voltage regulator basically stopped working and the volts dropped to 11.2-11.4 and stayed. It would every once and awhile jump to 12.2-12.4, but then drop right back down, sometimes to 10-10.5v. Haven't figured out why yet.

 

I think you posted almost the same thing the last time someone mentioned doing this but Bill Curry the resident electrical expert on all things C5 says it is a good idea. Im going to go with his proven expertise.

 

Your car, your money .......I'm not very good with electronical stuff anyway.....

 

I was concerned about the routing of the power wire as well, but not sure where else to route it? Any suggestions?

It looked to me like the stock power cable was running right "under" the fuel line? Am I wrong? In the photo below, is that not the stock power line pinched right under the fuel line connection?

I was primarily concerned about keeping the new line away from hot metal that "might" burn through the insulation and cause a short. If the fuel line were to leak, I am guessing I would probably have a fire on my hands regardless. Now, if the fuel line were hot enough to burn through the insulation and ground out to the fuel line, I could see that being a potential disaster? I am just not sure how my routing is any worse than the stock path, but I am more than open to suggestions.

 

electronical???

 

WTF "Big 3 Upgrade"???

 

There's no kill like overkill..I agree about the fuel line routing, but at least he didn't cause more harm to his electrical system.

 

His posts are usually very informative. Then again, I usually only post to mention how his post are very informative.

 

Yes do tell.. WTF is a big 3 upgrade and what does it consist of?

 

Mine has done the same thing since new.
It has never been an issue and my battery lasted 8 years.
You guys may be chasing your tails for nothing.

 

Mine just likes to occasionally beep at me and have my DIC tell me my volts are low when the voltmeter clearly indicates otherwise (>14V).

 

Do a Google search..."The big 3" is well documented.

 

First thing I do when I buy a C5 is remove all aftermarket stereo wiring(if installed) and throw it in the scrap bin; I would venture to say it is all made in China and just looks downright scary.........compare the OEM sheathing to the clear blue sheathing on that wire, a hair dryer could turn it into 'mush' in 10 seconds

Ground Points, at least half of C5's ground points(engine bay/driven in winter in areas that treat roads) are going to 'BREAK' if you put a wrench on them, soaking with PB Blaster and some heat 'may' avoid the break

I would invest the time into cleaning the OEM points and the PACK TERMINALS.

At one point these were $50,000(plus or minus 10k) cars, I just can't see doing this to a C5

 

So are UFO sightings.....

 

And bikini pool parties but I wouldn't want to have one in my vette.