Headlight Actuator Pin
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Toronto ON
Headlight Actuator Pin
The pin that links the actuator to the headlight assembly has somehow backed out and fallen out. 
I see that it isn't generally sold separately. Does anyone have an extra one with clip or direct me to an alternative or somewhere that sells it?
http://store.gmpartshouse.com/parts/...gramCallOut=10
Thanks all
I see that it isn't generally sold separately. Does anyone have an extra one with clip or direct me to an alternative or somewhere that sells it? http://store.gmpartshouse.com/parts/...gramCallOut=10
Thanks all
Last edited by piran21; Jul 23, 2012 at 11:57 PM.
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Mine fell out and I got lucky it was still trapped in the car....my suggestion is to remove the other one and go to a hardware store like Home Depot, Lowes, Ace or your Canadian equivalent and get another pin and the lock washer thing.....which reminds me I need another lock washer thing for mine I have it rigged at the moment 
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
For those that still have their pin, drill a hole through it near the end and use a flat washer and cotter pin. It won't fall out again.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 174,312
Likes: 1,217
From: Here
Pilot of Beer Force 1
Tampa Regional Coordinator
CI 4-5-6-7-8 Veteran
Organizer St. Jude Fundraiser
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Like you, I got lucky when one of mine had fallen out once before and that's what I did. I think the little push-on retainer was used for ease/speed of assembly at the factory, but unfortunately the retainer can come off if it is bent/deformed and not gripping tightly enough.
Another repair would be to measure and then obtain a bolt of the same dimensions and use a "nyloc" nut that won't work loose. I would choose stainless if possible to avoid any future rust.
Another repair would be to measure and then obtain a bolt of the same dimensions and use a "nyloc" nut that won't work loose. I would choose stainless if possible to avoid any future rust.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 731
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From: Ivins, Utah
Funny, mine fell out last night ... I had no idea what was wrong so I took it apart today and the arm is just loose and missing the pin, so I come on here do a search and the very first post has the answer ... I'm going to get a sample pin and head to ACE.
Thanks
Thanks
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Team Owner
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Look all around the area where your parking light resides, or rearward of it. Your pin may very well be laying down there.
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Ivins, Utah
So I found my pin still inside the car, it had dropped down.
The pin has a main shaft dia. of .310" so I'm sure a 5/16" (.3125") pin would work. The main shaft is 1.84" long, but it looks like there is room for it to be much longer, I measured at least a possible .4" longer would work, so a 2" or 2.25" long pin would work and give a little more room for the cotter pin hole.
The head dia of the pin is .47" but could be a little bigger say .50" and that is .1 wide for an overall pin length of 1.94". The head could be much thicker than the .1 as well.
Since I like the idea of a cotter pin I'm not going to drill the hole myself, I'll go to ACE and see what I can find there.
The pin goes thru about 1.60" of the headlight assembly boss so that leaves .24" for the cotter pin hole, on the stock pin, which is enough for a 1/16" cotter pin.
The pin has a main shaft dia. of .310" so I'm sure a 5/16" (.3125") pin would work. The main shaft is 1.84" long, but it looks like there is room for it to be much longer, I measured at least a possible .4" longer would work, so a 2" or 2.25" long pin would work and give a little more room for the cotter pin hole.
The head dia of the pin is .47" but could be a little bigger say .50" and that is .1 wide for an overall pin length of 1.94". The head could be much thicker than the .1 as well.
Since I like the idea of a cotter pin I'm not going to drill the hole myself, I'll go to ACE and see what I can find there.
The pin goes thru about 1.60" of the headlight assembly boss so that leaves .24" for the cotter pin hole, on the stock pin, which is enough for a 1/16" cotter pin.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 9
From: Ivins, Utah
I ended up drilling a 1/16" hole in the stock pin, I used a flat washer and a 1/16" cotter pin.
The factory pin is stainless, so I used a stainless washer and cotter pin.
I'll have to do the other side another time.
Thanks for all your help
The factory pin is stainless, so I used a stainless washer and cotter pin.
I'll have to do the other side another time.
Thanks for all your help