Ok this will be lengthy...

So what's happening is I'm trying to start the engine and after turning over it dies. Then the dash pops up the message "pull key wait 10 seconds". I have an automatic transmission and the only aftermarket electrical I've installed are my non pop-up headlights. I've replaced my battery as well an no luck. I've read about this online a bit, and I'm not even able to get moving because the power to fuel pump is being cut about 1-2 seconds after the engine turns over.

So other symptoms I have are that the buttons on the dash hardly ever work, I always assumed that the connection wasn't sat correctly. So I can't clear out anything on my DIC. (my wheel speed sensor is bad so the DIC displays "service ABS" and "service traction cont").

Also a while ago my key was sort of stuck in the ignition, but the car was in park, which I made sure of. I wasn't able to turn the key, but after fidgeting with it I managed to get it to turn, but I have to make sure the key is in as far as possible. Also, when I would take the key out after being in park, the doors wouldn't unlock automatically.

(I'm sure some of you are shaking your heads at me right now, but this Vette is my daily driver, and I'm military and don't have a lot of spare time)

So I've pulled the BCM and checked the area at the passenger foot area and it's not wet, nor does anything show any sign of water damage. I read something about checking a relay for damage, but I wasn't sure which one to check. Also like I mentioned there isn't any water damage. I have no idea what to check next, and would greatly appreciate any help.

 

The engine shutting off shortly after starting sounds like the VATS or anti theft system kicking in---Especially since you had a key issue-- These keys have an OHM resistor in them to prevent theft--An old--dirty or bent key will cause the theft system to kick in---If you have another key try it---If not you are stuck going to the dealer and having one made to match the OHMS in your not working key--pricey but no other way--(if it's the key)

 

You might be right, but I would try another key just to be sure. Can't hurt. My son's car (a mitsubishi) had the exact same symptoms and it was a bad spare key he had cut.

 

I've tried both keys. I don't think that's the problem. I made sure to clean the pellets with iso, and looked both keys over for excessive wear. Neither of them look bad. The car won't stay on long enough to attempt to move.

From what I've read so far I was looking at the BCM as the culprit. However right now I can't pull codes because the buttons on the dash don't work. So once I pull apart my dash to figure out why my buttons arne't working and fix that, I'll pull codes and see what that gives me.

If anyone has had this problem, feel free to share any easy fixes you may have had.

 

Well I disagree --I have tuned many retrofit LS1 engines into older non computer cars---
The 1st phone call i always get is the car starts and dies quickly-- It's never " the car won't start at all"--- So I simply disable or turn off the VATS and column lock systems and the engine stays running---
The other only issue i can think of that would shut the car down at start would be the " OIL presssure sensing " system--- This shuts the engine down when the oil is extremely HOT or if there is NO oil pressure----If in fact true then this would cause shutdowns --- BUT if those related sensors are BAD-- you would be getting false shut downs

 

No such system on a C5.......