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I can not tell if my car has under-drive pulleys; the car acts like it has them. Under-drive pulleys are usually easy to spot but not always. My car has the classic symptomatic signs of pulleys: charge system code flashes when I turn on the ac, poor head light visibility and, miss in the idle, which might be caused by low voltage to the ecu. The only thing is, the pulleys look stock to me. They are not anodized; this does not mean anything because i am not familiar enough with Corvette parts to identify them. I did check one of the belt sizes and this is the part code, napa microV 25_060796. Is this a stock belt size?
Any help would help.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
You could also have a diode dead in the diode trio and that would do the same thing. It'll charge, it'll work, but, ehhh, not 100%. With a really good alternator, even working at 1/2 capacity, you might not notice all that much.
It's something else to consider.
Poor ground will also do this. If you can drive at higher rpm's and all is well, then perhaps its pulleys. But if that doesn't fix it, that ain't it.
You could also have a diode dead in the diode trio and that would do the same thing. It'll charge, it'll work, but, ehhh, not 100%. With a really good alternator, even working at 1/2 capacity, you might not notice all that much.
It's something else to consider.
Poor ground will also do this. If you can drive at higher rpm's and all is well, then perhaps its pulleys. But if that doesn't fix it, that ain't it.
Yup, as soon as the car starts moving, it starts acting normal.
Where is the diode your talking about located?
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
They are inside the alternator soldered onto a module. They are the rectifier for the AC charge coming in. The entire arrangement can be purchased as a replacement part at any auto parts store. Open the alternator and replace it, done. Most people just get a new alternator cause they don't know the parts inside can be replaced individually. The diode trio costs a little bit-o nothing. $5? $8? And it's a couple minutes to swap out. It could also make the car act as you describe, faster = no troubles. Hey, it's worth a shot. Cleaning battery terminals would be a good idea at this point too, and get a kit of that goop for on the terminals so they don't corrode. Clean them WELL, and stick em back together.
They are inside the alternator soldered onto a module. They are the rectifier for the AC charge coming in. The entire arrangement can be purchased as a replacement part at any auto parts store. Open the alternator and replace it, done. Most people just get a new alternator cause they don't know the parts inside can be replaced individually. The diode trio costs a little bit-o nothing. $5? $8? And it's a couple minutes to swap out. It could also make the car act as you describe, faster = no troubles. Hey, it's worth a shot. Cleaning battery terminals would be a good idea at this point too, and get a kit of that goop for on the terminals so they don't corrode. Clean them WELL, and stick em back together.