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Could this be the battery?

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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 09:03 PM
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Default Could this be the battery?

I've had a random ABS and traction control warnings and lights pop up on a drive the other day. It was a hot dry south TX day I pulled over and turned the car off and restarted it and all is well.

However, I have noticed that the car seems to be starting slower like the battery is about to go. Would that be the most likely cause of the freak out?

I know it's not a lot of info but this is the first time it's ever happened. There were no vibrations, sounds, or smells associated with the light show. Car is a 2004 and has 16,000 miles.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 10:27 PM
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Wow low miles for that year, that's great! Are there any codes to read on your DIC? Is the battery old and its about time for a new one anyway?
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 01:37 AM
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Yes, the battery could cause random faults (alarms) so before I started cleaning grounds and checking connections, I would make sure I had a fresh battery, fully charged. I did and all was well for almost 10k miles before the EBCM failed, permanently. ABSfixer and all is well once again.

Okie
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 01:43 AM
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go for the battery first. it could be the cheap fix
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 10:04 AM
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I'll check the coeds when I get home but it's on it's second battery that is 5 years old at least and it does alot of setting around too.

The battery connections are clean.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Vette_Minded
I'll check the coeds when I get home but it's on it's second battery that is 5 years old at least and it does alot of setting around too.

The battery connections are clean.

Make sure you get one that is rated for the car. Optima does not make a battery that has enough reserve capacity. Get the Odyssey or Sears DieHard Platinum (made by Odyssey).

I bought mine with a Red Top already installed and it had electrical gremlins until I put a proper battery in it and has not hiccupped in almost a year.

Good luck!
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TorqueWinsRaces
Make sure you get one that is rated for the car. Optima does not make a battery that has enough reserve capacity. Get the Odyssey or Sears DieHard Platinum (made by Odyssey).

I bought mine with a Red Top already installed and it had electrical gremlins until I put a proper battery in it and has not hiccupped in almost a year.

Good luck!
Thanks for the info. Do you any battery specs?
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 09:31 PM
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And for FWIW - Battery group 75 is what it calls for but a group 78 will fit perfect and have more CCA.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
I agree that the battery has to be first suspect.
Or the terminals
I'd clean them before spending money on a battery
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
If you had read post #5 he said the "battery connections are clean".
Crap , reading is fundamental
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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OK here is the code list:

C1226 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1276 Delivered Torque Signal CKT Malfunction
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2286 +5V Reference Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
U1064 Loss of Communication with BCM
U1016 Loss of Communication with PCM
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2287 +5V Reference Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault

This is the first time that I've ever looked at that codes so I have no idea if any were set before this incident or not. All codes are histroy codes and non are currently active. I drove the car to work on Friday with no issues but I haven't had a chence to go to the parts store to look at battries.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 01:52 AM
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Now clear all the codes. Like you said they may be old and don't mean anything. Put in a new battery. And hey that should do it!!
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