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I have a 99 FRC with a few mods. Car currently makes 380rwhp. The other day when I took it out the pedal statred to want to stay at the floor. It has a C6 z06 clutch kit in it. Im assuming the rest of the parts are stock also since the clutch was in it when I bought it. Im getting ready to add more power with a set of cnc ported heads and a few other mods and want get a good clutch setup in the car.
What clutch and other parts do you guys recommend for me? Thanks for your help
Make sure you bleed it and put a good hi temp fluid in there, I use Motul RBF 600. Sorry can't help you with what clutch to buy, I just got a Z06 clutch for mine.
Make sure you bleed it and put a good hi temp fluid in there, I use Motul RBF 600. Sorry can't help you with what clutch to buy, I just got a Z06 clutch for mine.
I just ordered the tick mastercylinder and bleeder hose. Ill get some good fluid also.Thanks for the heads up on the fluid.
If your pedal is staying on the floor, you might have the slave cylinder going bad. You'll know when it goes all the way and stays there. It happened to me, fortunately I was able to drive my car home without a tow. It's a good time to change the clutch, too.
I have a Tick Master and textralia z-grip clutch. Have a buddy who was pushing 1076ft lbs through the same clutch with no problems. But u need a strong left leg in traffic lol I would highly recommend checking your torque tube bushings if u are planning on pulling the drivetrain. I am making a lil over 400rwhp and a hard shift into third broke all my tq tube bushing bolts on the clutch side and destroyed the inside of the tube. Got a good deal and upgraded to the newer style 12 mm/63mm tube.
All depends on the power level. Honestly if you stay around or below the 450rwhp level I would recommend an OEM LS6 clutch. Can't beat OEM fitment and at those power levels why sacrifice pedal pressure or reliability.
That being said, I have an ACT HDSS and enjoy it, despite the heavy pedal. I bought it because I had some lofty goals of making a couple hundred more horsepower, but in hindsight, I should have just gone with the LS6.
All depends on the power level. Honestly if you stay around or below the 450rwhp level I would recommend an OEM LS6 clutch. Can't beat OEM fitment and at those power levels why sacrifice pedal pressure or reliability.
That being said, I have an ACT HDSS and enjoy it, despite the heavy pedal. I bought it because I had some lofty goals of making a couple hundred more horsepower, but in hindsight, I should have just gone with the LS6.
Jack
I hope your joking. Why would he DOWNGRADE he has a LS7 clutch already. LS6 clutch is on its last leg with boltons and tune. Cam n heads and you might survive the dyno runs but no long after. I vote monster stage 2
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You make no mention of what your budget is, but I can recommend McLeod RST dual disk.
Very good street manners (no chatter, no "on-off", etc) and leaves you some wiggle room for more power adders in the future if you should decide to go that route.
monster stage 2 in mine. it feels like a stock clutch but holds the 440rwhp mine is putting down nicely. balanced and installed perfectly with no drama.
Mantic Er2. I have had Monster, Tex, etc. Mantic is absolutely amazing. Your clutch shouldnt be sticking with an LS7 kit. I vote the slave going bad. While you're in there, I would throw in a new clutch. Mantic will hold up to 700hp and 780TQ. Softest pedal feel for an aftermarket clutch Ive ever used.
I hope your joking. Why would he DOWNGRADE he has a LS7 clutch already. LS6 clutch is on its last leg with boltons and tune. Cam n heads and you might survive the dyno runs but no long after. I vote monster stage 2
I know you won't believe this but I still have the factory original clutch. It only slips if I try to spin the 315/30-18" PS2s, so I don't do that.
I've had a Z06 clutch sitting on the bench for years and last year put a new RPS twin on top on it. Just finished installing a lift in my new shop so I'll get to it one day. I can't believe it doesn't slip with the Vortec blower because it pulls so hard, but it doesn't slip.
This is probably why I haven't destroyed the transaxle doing burnouts and getting wheel hop.
I hope your joking. Why would he DOWNGRADE he has a LS7 clutch already. LS6 clutch is on its last leg with boltons and tune. Cam n heads and you might survive the dyno runs but no long after. I vote monster stage 2
Because the LS7 is HEAVY. I have personal experience with a lot of 440-460rwhp cars on ls6 clutches.
I forgot to mention in my first post: One of the major benefits I have noticed of the OEM Luk discs is the reduced dust level over over aftermarket. Some of the beefy aftermarket stuff creates so much dust that you are likely to ruin slave cylinders at an astonishing rate.
Because the LS7 is HEAVY. I have personal experience with a lot of 440-460rwhp cars on ls6 clutches.
I forgot to mention in my first post: One of the major benefits I have noticed of the OEM Luk discs is the reduced dust level over over aftermarket. Some of the beefy aftermarket stuff creates so much dust that you are likely to ruin slave cylinders at an astonishing rate.
Jack
Not track cars you dont. Why not just spend the money bc you know its gonna need it anyway. Doing somthing like that can leave you stranded. Ask me how i know......