I'm fearful of getting beat up on this, but I'll give it a shot. I'm not real mechanically inclined, but I'm willing to learn. I want to put fresh brake fluid in my '99. The fluid looks really bad. I've always been hesitant about brake things since they are so important - but I'd like to learn how to do this stuff.

On Autozone's website they have some "service guides" and there is one for bleeding the brakes. It talks about a "scan tool" and I'm not sure what that means.

I've done a search for "brakes", "brake bleeding", etc. but get so many hits it's unreal. Any suggestions for DIY brake bleeding which includes installing quick bleeders?

I understand this could get the "beating a dead horse", "not another one" and "have you tried doing a search" response so I reckon I'll just grin and take it.

Thanks

 

I need to do mine since I changed out the abs module and I heard also I need a tech 2 to get the air out. So I would like to know also

 

It is easy to do with speed bleeders.
1. Loosen the lug nuts on all 4 wheels.
2. Jack up car and use jack stands to have all 4 wheels off the ground.
3. Remove all 4 wheels.
4. Install the speed bleeders in the 4 calipers.
5. Use a turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder and fill with the new fluid.
6. Loosen the speed bleeder on the passenger rear wheel.
7. Put a clear plastic hose on the speed bleeder with the end on the hose going into a bottle or jar.
8. Push on the brake pedal 7 or 8 limes slowly, letting it up slowly in between pushes.
9. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder. DO NOT let it run out of fluid.
10. When clean fluid comes out of the caliper, tighten the speed bleeder.
11. Do the same for the rear drivers side caliper, then the passenger front and the drivers front.
12. Clean all 4 wheels, front and back, while they are off.
13. Clean the wheel wells.
14. Install the 4 wheels, get the car off the jackstands, and torque the lug nuts to the proper specs. 100 foot pounds, as I recall.

I do not think this does the ABS module. I know on my C4 there is a bleeder on the ABS unit and I think the procedure would be the same.

 

Thanks KMCOLDCARS..... Let me make sure I understand two things:

First, I can install quick bleeders BEFORE I actually bleed - correct?

Two, I'm not certain about the ABS module. Actually, not even sure what that is - but if that's not being changed or modified, I'm good to go with the process you outlined - correct?

Thanks again.

 

Yes, you can install the speed bleeders before you actually bleed anything.
I cannot give an answer about the ABS as I have not done mine yet and do not have the time to look through my FSM right now. I wil do it tomorrow AM.

 

I assume you can go wheel by wheel and don't have to get all 4 wheels off the ground at once --- i don't trust having the whole car in the air on jack stands. Also, is there 1 or 2 bleeders needed per caliper and where is the best place to purchase those bleeder valves.

Thanks

 

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

And yes you can go one at a time, there's one bleeder per caliper.

 

I have a little write up on my web site about bleeding my brakes...

www.ToqueZ06.com

Look in section "SS Brake Lines, Speed Bleeder install, and Brake Fluid flush on my C5 Z06:"

See if there is anything there that may help you out.

Some of my pics are out of focus. Sorry about that. I did not know how to use the Macro feature on my camera and I never noticed the pics were out of focus will I completed the work.

Toque

 

Toque, your web site is great! I read that piece and found it very helpful, although I'll not be switching lines. Your "bleeder bottle" is a great idea and very much appreciated the frequent reminder to keep the fluid off the paint - unless of course "you plan to paint your car."

I also read your piece on transmission and differential fluid change.

Thanks!

 

I watched a few videos on brake bleeding and was surprised to see one from Advanced Auto that actually took all the fluid from the reservoir, wiped it clean and then filled with fresh fluid before bleeding the brakes. From what I've been able to gather, most others say DO NOT let the reservoir get too low or empty while bleeding the brakes. Is that only during the bleeding process or is it okay to empty it out BEFORE starting the bleeding process?

 

Your welcome ! I hope it can be of some use to you !
Save you some $$ and do it yourself !

Toque

 

I drained my reservoir most of the way (90% ish) before pouring in new fluid. Then I started bleeding my lines until I saw the new color fluid coming out at my brake caliper. U just NEVER want an air pocket to get into the lines once you start pushing on the brake pedal. Make sure the fluid level in your reservoir is ALWAYS high enough so you don't get air in the line.

Another side note. The ABS part of the brake system has a little bit of fluid in it that you just can't get out unless you have a special GM programmer to open the valves (or something like that). I did not have the special GM programmer so I was not able to get at the little bit of fluid inside the ABS part. I figure the more I bleed my brakes eventually it will even out...

Toque

 

If you want you can install speed bleeders at each caliper before starting bleeding.

To bleed the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (commonly known as an ABS module) you will need a Tech 2 or similar scanner that will open the valves while you are bleeding the brakes. Some parts of the module will get bled while other parts won't because a closed valve prevents fluid from flowing all the way through the module.

Here is a diagram of the 99 Module:

(1) Master Cylinder
(2) Master Cylinder Reservoir
(3) Pump
(4) Rear Master Cylinder Isolation Valve
(5) Rear Prime Valve
(6) Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV)
(7) Damper
(8) Right Rear Inlet Valve
(9) Accumulator
(10) Right Rear Brake
(11) Right Rear Outlet Valve
(12) Left Rear Outlet Valve
(13) Left Rear Brake
(14) Left Rear Inlet Valve
(15) Left Front Inlet Valve
(16) Left Front Brake

You can suck all of the fluid out of the reservoir before you start because there is still fluid in the line at the bottom of the reservoir. Once you get the old fluid out put new fluid in and wait a few minutes before you start bleeding. This will allow air bubbles that go in the fluid while pouring it in the reservoir to rise to the top. Once you start do not let the reservoir go dry as you could accidentally pump air into the ABS module and then you will need to get an automated bleed done with a Tech 2. If you do get air into the valve you can drive the car at 30 mph and try to activate the ABS by hitting the brake pedal hard (smash it, don't baby it). If there is a lot of air you may have to pump the brakes a couple of times before smashing the pedal so there is enough pressure to activate the ABS. Once you activate the ABS (DIC will indicate ABS Active, or you feel the brake pedal vibrate) take the car back and bleed the brakes again. Activating the ABS opens the valves (you want all the valves moving so you have to try and lock all 4 wheels) and hopefully will let the air out into the regular brake line. Repeat a few times to make sure you get all of the air out. If the pedal is spongy after this you will probably have to pay to have an automated bleed at the dealers shop. If you do this and wanted special fluid in the system make sure you take your own fluid as they will redo the complete bleed.


On 97-00 Vettes the dual brake system separates the brakes into front pairs and rear pairs. Too bleed you always start with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder so that means the right rear, followed by the left rear (this completely bleeds the rear brake circuit which is separate from the front circuit). Then you bleed the right front (furthest) followed by the left front which finishes the front circuit.

If you want to put the car on jackstands there is no reason not to. Put the stands at the outer edges of the front and rear crossmembers with the top of the stands oriented from front to rear so the top of each stand bridges across the two edges of each cross beam from front to rear. The cross beams are like inverted U's. There are a myriad of methods to jacking the car but all are easy just be sure to have a set of lift/jacking pucks so you don't damage the rocker panel.

Bill

 

Thanks for the thorough write-up Bill. It is very much appreciated. Between what you've provided and the contribution from Toque's web site, I feel confident I can handle this.

This is why I love this forum!!!!!

 

Maybe I missed it but when you pump the brakes should the engine be running so you have power assist or should the engine be off?

Thanks

 

Engine OFF is the way I do mine.

Toque

 

I second that on his website. I have visited it a few times just to read up on things he has written up. I plan on doing some of them to my 98 in the winter. Thanks for the write up Toque they are very informative.

 

Your very welcome, thanks for the compliment.
When I got my car 8.5 yrs ago barely knew how to check my oil level.
Everything I have learned I attribute to this forum, so I decided to give back a little with my web site

Toque