Options for Giubo replacement
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Options for Giubo replacement
So, this past weekend at the track, on my sixth pass I did a nice burnout, staged up the car, brought it up on the 2-step, and when I let out the clutch, I was rewarded with "BANGthumpthumpthump" and a car that needed a push back to the pits.
I haven't taken it all apart yet, but I am 95% sure that I killed the rear giubo (also referred to as a "guibo") joint on the driveshaft. I don't want to go to the extent of doing a CF driveshaft and metal replacement joints because this car is street-driven, but I would really like to upgrade to something more durable, with better torque capacity than the stock pieces.
I've heard mixed reviews of the Prothane urethane giubos, so I wanted to see if there are any other options available.
I haven't taken it all apart yet, but I am 95% sure that I killed the rear giubo (also referred to as a "guibo") joint on the driveshaft. I don't want to go to the extent of doing a CF driveshaft and metal replacement joints because this car is street-driven, but I would really like to upgrade to something more durable, with better torque capacity than the stock pieces.
I've heard mixed reviews of the Prothane urethane giubos, so I wanted to see if there are any other options available.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 941
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids MI
Keep your fingers crossed that the guibos are all that you broke. Your description sounds messy.
I have my TT out at the moment, doing this very thing. I did some extensive research on this topic before I bought my replacements, and found "my guibos are trash" threads for every single manufacturer. It seems that, on the forum at least, none of them are indestructible. (besides the solid aluminum ones, but that's another story.) I found enough testimonials for the cheap bavarian auto units that I ended up going that route.
Both guibos shipped to my door for > $100
Jack
I have my TT out at the moment, doing this very thing. I did some extensive research on this topic before I bought my replacements, and found "my guibos are trash" threads for every single manufacturer. It seems that, on the forum at least, none of them are indestructible. (besides the solid aluminum ones, but that's another story.) I found enough testimonials for the cheap bavarian auto units that I ended up going that route.
Both guibos shipped to my door for > $100
Jack
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,153
Likes: 892
From: South Western Ontario
Pay for the good replacement ones. The cheap softer rubber ones act like springs in the drivetrain.
The drivetrain shop sells another version of poly ones. They are rather pricy though.
The drivetrain shop sells another version of poly ones. They are rather pricy though.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 539
Likes: 4
From: Jeffersonville IN
you're better off to just toss some stock replacements in and consider them a maintenance item. i got a pair of brand new GM ones from ECS for around $200. The BMW ones are hit or miss on if they're the real deal or cheap junk.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Man, I hate to consider removing the torque tube on a routine basis... Fortunately I am already planning on having everything down for a diff swap anyway, but still.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,458
Likes: 105
From: Northville Michigan
So, this past weekend at the track, on my sixth pass I did a nice burnout, staged up the car, brought it up on the 2-step, and when I let out the clutch, I was rewarded with "BANGthumpthumpthump" and a car that needed a push back to the pits.
I haven't taken it all apart yet, but I am 95% sure that I killed the rear giubo (also referred to as a "guibo") joint on the driveshaft. I don't want to go to the extent of doing a CF driveshaft and metal replacement joints because this car is street-driven, but I would really like to upgrade to something more durable, with better torque capacity than the stock pieces.
I've heard mixed reviews of the Prothane urethane giubos, so I wanted to see if there are any other options available.
I haven't taken it all apart yet, but I am 95% sure that I killed the rear giubo (also referred to as a "guibo") joint on the driveshaft. I don't want to go to the extent of doing a CF driveshaft and metal replacement joints because this car is street-driven, but I would really like to upgrade to something more durable, with better torque capacity than the stock pieces.
I've heard mixed reviews of the Prothane urethane giubos, so I wanted to see if there are any other options available.
As others have written, the rubber or urethane guibos are a maintenance item.
Aluminum parts won't break, but the will cause an eventual failure of your torque tube front bearing.
The only failure-free option is very expensive:
Pfadt Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft Assembly
[1121020]$2,000.00
Click to enlarge The stock drive shaft and rubber guibo ends weigh 8.85 pounds. The Pfadt Carbon Fiber drive shaft assembly weighs only 4.28 pounds!! That is a weight savings of 52%. What's important is that this weight reduction is rotating mass.
Most after market drive shafts require the purchase of heavy rubber or aluminum guibo's to complete the install. These heavy ends eliminate almost all the weight savings over a stock set up and do nothing for improving reliability. The most common drive shaft failure is with the guibo.
Our driveshaft has been tested to 2300 ft-lb of torque on our fixture and we have over 500,000 cycles at 1350 ft-lb of torque for reliability testing. A single cycle at that torque will fail a stock driveshaft.
If you need high performance and reliability advantages, the Pfadt Carbon Fiber Driveshaft is for you!
We have versions available for all 2001 and newer Corvettes.
You may place your order online but before your order can be processed we must speak with you to ensure you are getting the right driveshaft for your application.
Good luck with your decision.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,153
Likes: 892
From: South Western Ontario
Someone was (or still is) making the U-joint shafts for the C5? I recall them being something like $800 or $900 for one.
I'm not sure I'd call the Pfadt unit "failure free" yet.
I'm not sure I'd call the Pfadt unit "failure free" yet.
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,760
Likes: 75
From: Haymarket VA
Another option is to put one aluminum coupler in which I've neevr really understood. All it does is put twice as much load on the rubber or poly bushing that's left. Put it this way, no way I'd do that on my car.
Last edited by WKMCD; Aug 14, 2012 at 04:05 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,458
Likes: 105
From: Northville Michigan
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,153
Likes: 892
From: South Western Ontario
Can you provide the list of cars that have travelled 200,000 with the Pfadt shaft?
Can you provide the long term durability test data?
Can you simply provide the list of cars using the shaft giving their usage and mileage?
Just because there have been no posts here about a part failing doesn't mean it can't fail. Everyone claimed the Titanic was unsinkable until it plummited to the bottom of the Atlantic.
If you're going to claim a part is failure free (ie it can't fail) then it's on you to prove the claim, not on me to disprove it.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Aug 14, 2012 at 07:04 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 682
Likes: 11
From: Anderson Indiana
Considering you are launching on a 2-step I am going to assume you have a good tire on the car. I would highly consider stepping up to the DSS poly couplers that we sell. Launching a manual trans car on a sticky tire is very hard on couplers. The stock replacement units will fail regularly. The Prothane six shooter couplers are the last thing I would put in there. We have seen nothing but problems with them.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Considering you are launching on a 2-step I am going to assume you have a good tire on the car. I would highly consider stepping up to the DSS poly couplers that we sell. Launching a manual trans car on a sticky tire is very hard on couplers. The stock replacement units will fail regularly. The Prothane six shooter couplers are the last thing I would put in there. We have seen nothing but problems with them.
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 682
Likes: 11
From: Anderson Indiana
No problem. Always happy to help.
385rwhp still isn't anything to sneeze at. It's obviously already enough to wreak havoc on the stock drivetrain parts lol. The DSS couplers will be strong enough to have you covered for a long time.
Ron,
The DSS couplers are made by The Driveshaft Shop. They are the highest quality poly couplers on the market. They are great for your normal enthusiast that is looking for a strong reliable coupler, but doesn't want the added vibration of the billet aluminum couplers or the large price tag of a carbon fiber prop shafts.
Here is a link to the poly couplers. This link is to the 12mm versions. If your car is an early C5 97-00 it will have 10mm bolts.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...eshaft-coupler
The DSS couplers are made by The Driveshaft Shop. They are the highest quality poly couplers on the market. They are great for your normal enthusiast that is looking for a strong reliable coupler, but doesn't want the added vibration of the billet aluminum couplers or the large price tag of a carbon fiber prop shafts.
Here is a link to the poly couplers. This link is to the 12mm versions. If your car is an early C5 97-00 it will have 10mm bolts.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...eshaft-coupler
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Jeremy - let me add my own "thank you" as well.
It's going to be a few weeks before I can get on our shop schedule to have the repair work done, but when I do I will update this thread with pictures of the damage...
It's going to be a few weeks before I can get on our shop schedule to have the repair work done, but when I do I will update this thread with pictures of the damage...
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 682
Likes: 11
From: Anderson Indiana
Definately keep us posted. I'm curious as to what let go.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,454
Likes: 412
From: Portland OR
Ron,
The DSS couplers are made by The Driveshaft Shop. They are the highest quality poly couplers on the market. They are great for your normal enthusiast that is looking for a strong reliable coupler, but doesn't want the added vibration of the billet aluminum couplers or the large price tag of a carbon fiber prop shafts.
Here is a link to the poly couplers. This link is to the 12mm versions. If your car is an early C5 97-00 it will have 10mm bolts.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...eshaft-coupler
Ron