Vacuum hose causing secondary air injector code?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Oregon City OR
Vacuum hose causing secondary air injector code?
I just bought my 2001 Corvette. It's now been in the shop more than I've been able to drive it. It's easy to say the shop is trying to screw me, but I don't jump to conclusions that easy when I don't know everything.
Code P0410 is being thrown. I've replaced the valves. I'm glad I did because they looked bad, but this didn't fix the problem. Air pump is working great, plenty of air when you jump it and cause it to run. All lines look good.
Logic: The code is not coming up on cold start. It comes up at random times. This does lead me to believe it could be a leak in a vacuum hose. The hose in question would be the one on the back side of the intake manifold, probably between the engine and firewall. (Does this make sense?)
It's the only other Vacuum hose I could think of as I looked through a diagram. Could this cause that engine code? How hard is it to get to and fix? Do I need pencil arms? I'm a lifter so... kind of hard to get my arms in tight places.
Any Advice would be Most appreciated.
Code P0410 is being thrown. I've replaced the valves. I'm glad I did because they looked bad, but this didn't fix the problem. Air pump is working great, plenty of air when you jump it and cause it to run. All lines look good.
Logic: The code is not coming up on cold start. It comes up at random times. This does lead me to believe it could be a leak in a vacuum hose. The hose in question would be the one on the back side of the intake manifold, probably between the engine and firewall. (Does this make sense?)
It's the only other Vacuum hose I could think of as I looked through a diagram. Could this cause that engine code? How hard is it to get to and fix? Do I need pencil arms? I'm a lifter so... kind of hard to get my arms in tight places.
Any Advice would be Most appreciated.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,100
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From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
It looks like you've done your homework on this because you're asking some very good questions!
Check to see if you have full engine vacuum at the AIR vacuum control valve, just after a cold start. If you don't have vacuum there, check for vacuum at the AIR solenoid valve.
The PCM can command the Secondary AIR system to run the self-check test after a warm-up as well, so the DTC might be set at any time.
The O2 sensors also play a role in the above mentioned self test, since they must output a lean signal to the PCM, while the AIR pump is running, in order for the test to pass. A lazy O2 sensor may not show this change.
Check to see if you have full engine vacuum at the AIR vacuum control valve, just after a cold start. If you don't have vacuum there, check for vacuum at the AIR solenoid valve.
The PCM can command the Secondary AIR system to run the self-check test after a warm-up as well, so the DTC might be set at any time.
The O2 sensors also play a role in the above mentioned self test, since they must output a lean signal to the PCM, while the AIR pump is running, in order for the test to pass. A lazy O2 sensor may not show this change.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,956
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From: Da U.P.
The other end of the vacuum line is at the pump itself which can easily be accessed by simply removing the small piece of plastic at the base of the fender. Its' front screws are in line with the left air dam's fasteners. If you lift the front of the car, you should have no trouble getting those meathooks in there.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
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From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
You have been working on the AIR hoses--but have you looked at the Exhaust manifolds where that air enters your exhaust?? On both sides the is a small 2 bolt flange fitting that connects to manifold-- These flamges have gaskets that often leak--Also the actual port in the manifold is very small and with older cars it is common for them to carbon up closed , blocking the airflow---they cleaning them-replace the gaskets they will break when removing them--The dealer has the gaskets they are cheap---
ALSO these flange bolts because they are in the exhaust are extremely hard to get off !!!
Finally----AIR codes an be pesky ---On older cars sometimes the best fix is to have a tuner permanently turn them off-- and you'll never have the codes again--mail order is fine for this-
ALSO these flange bolts because they are in the exhaust are extremely hard to get off !!!
Finally----AIR codes an be pesky ---On older cars sometimes the best fix is to have a tuner permanently turn them off-- and you'll never have the codes again--mail order is fine for this-
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Oregon City OR
Thank you for all the information everyone, I'll reply as best I can:
Quicksilver Vert 01: Thank you! I have been doing some research for sure. I will check for vacuum, and I think that might be where my problem lies. (Have you ever just wanted to replace every freaking vacuum hose you find just so you know that can't be the problem???)
Supercharged111: I will try that! Great to know, and thank you. Yeah people with larger hands and big arms have trouble with working on cars some times. And... we break bolts
tblu92: Well the actual air pump and valves have been replaced. The hoses were said to have been good, although I hadn't checked them myself. Air codes, I've found, are pesky, and as I told Quicksilver, I just want to replace every vacuum hose in the car just to make sure that's not it. I hear there is one that's hard to get to behind the intake manifold... that's the one I was going to tackle.
Thank you all, I'll keep you posted.
Quicksilver Vert 01: Thank you! I have been doing some research for sure. I will check for vacuum, and I think that might be where my problem lies. (Have you ever just wanted to replace every freaking vacuum hose you find just so you know that can't be the problem???)
Supercharged111: I will try that! Great to know, and thank you. Yeah people with larger hands and big arms have trouble with working on cars some times. And... we break bolts
tblu92: Well the actual air pump and valves have been replaced. The hoses were said to have been good, although I hadn't checked them myself. Air codes, I've found, are pesky, and as I told Quicksilver, I just want to replace every vacuum hose in the car just to make sure that's not it. I hear there is one that's hard to get to behind the intake manifold... that's the one I was going to tackle.
Thank you all, I'll keep you posted.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 155
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From: Oregon City OR
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,100
Likes: 17
From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Once deletet from the PCM, it will no longer set any codes related to the Secondary Air System.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 155
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From: Oregon City OR
If your state emissions test is just a plug-in connection to the OBDII port, that looks for trouble codes, you could certainly have the Secondary AIR System deleted from the PCM, and still pass the emissions test.
Once deletet from the PCM, it will no longer set any codes related to the Secondary Air System.
Once deletet from the PCM, it will no longer set any codes related to the Secondary Air System.
I obviously want to fix the problem, but if I can just get it past DEQ, I'll be ahead of the game next time as well. If it's a vacuum leak, I'll want to fix it any way.
Thanks again everyone. Looks like it's back to the garage... tinkering on a car... with friends, and a kegerator... man this is going to be rough.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1
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From: Clarkston, MI
p0410 code-vac line under battery tray ( 2000 convert)?
On another thread I can't seem to find now I saw a vac line under the bat tray mentioned. Sure enough upon removing the tray I found the broken end of a vac line coming out large wireing harness with no apparent mate and another vac line bent and about to break!? like above the code was random, never at start up but after about the engine was warmed up. A leads to pics of this area? Under the bat tray ids a real jungle, what were they thinking. I have checked the air pump, with the control valve disconnected there is massive air flow, after rehooking the control valve there is more of a fluttering, the valve itself was clean and appeared to work fine. this lead me to poss vac leak.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 328
From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
Thank you for all the information everyone, I'll reply as best I can:
Quicksilver Vert 01: Thank you! I have been doing some research for sure. I will check for vacuum, and I think that might be where my problem lies. (Have you ever just wanted to replace every freaking vacuum hose you find just so you know that can't be the problem???)
Supercharged111: I will try that! Great to know, and thank you. Yeah people with larger hands and big arms have trouble with working on cars some times. And... we break bolts
tblu92: Well the actual air pump and valves have been replaced. The hoses were said to have been good, although I hadn't checked them myself. Air codes, I've found, are pesky, and as I told Quicksilver, I just want to replace every vacuum hose in the car just to make sure that's not it. I hear there is one that's hard to get to behind the intake manifold... that's the one I was going to tackle.
Thank you all, I'll keep you posted.
Quicksilver Vert 01: Thank you! I have been doing some research for sure. I will check for vacuum, and I think that might be where my problem lies. (Have you ever just wanted to replace every freaking vacuum hose you find just so you know that can't be the problem???)
Supercharged111: I will try that! Great to know, and thank you. Yeah people with larger hands and big arms have trouble with working on cars some times. And... we break bolts
tblu92: Well the actual air pump and valves have been replaced. The hoses were said to have been good, although I hadn't checked them myself. Air codes, I've found, are pesky, and as I told Quicksilver, I just want to replace every vacuum hose in the car just to make sure that's not it. I hear there is one that's hard to get to behind the intake manifold... that's the one I was going to tackle.
Thank you all, I'll keep you posted.
**** On both sides the is a small 2 bolt flange fitting that connects to manifold-- These flamges have gaskets that often leak--Also the actual port in the manifold is very small and with older cars it is common for them to carbon up closed , blocking the airflow---****
Thse flanges are just beyong the AIR check valves--The large air hose turns into a STEEL tubing-then attaches to the exhaust manifolds with the 2-bolt flanges---Under these flanges are the ports which clog up with carbon--
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 20
Likes: 2
vacuum hose
I just finished repairing this same exact error code on my 2001, turns out this is a very common code for C5 Corvettes and I was able to find lots of help on this forum. It is usually caused by a leaking battery, the acid then eats through the plastic vacuum lines that control the air pump output and the airconditioning/heat controls under the dash. There are only two vacuum lines under the battery tray imbedded in the wiring harnesses, making them hard to find. You need to see if your car has had a leak in the past and if so remove the battery and the tray and inspect for damage. You can look at the frame behind the right front tire and see if it looks like battery acid took the paint off when it leaked. Once these damaged lines are found they are fairly easy to repair by cutting out the bad portion and slipping rubber vacuum hose over the two broken lines. Let me know what you find and I'll be glad to help as I just went through this.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Oregon City OR
Update:
So after pulling the plastic cover on the passenger's side, staring me straight in the face was a very broken vacuum hose toward the back of the intake manifold. It's the 3/8", almost plastic, and now crumbling part that looks like it should have had clips.
I replaced it with blue 3//8 hose, temp fix just to see if that's the problem and ... well I had it in the shop
I cleared the code, and it hasn't been back on yet...
I will also check the flanges, thank you tblu92. I now understand what you are talking about. And why not check them, I'm already at it.
I'll also check under the battery to see if it had leaked, although a once over didn't show any signs, and this battery that's in there is brand new.
Thanks.
I replaced it with blue 3//8 hose, temp fix just to see if that's the problem and ... well I had it in the shop
I cleared the code, and it hasn't been back on yet...
I will also check the flanges, thank you tblu92. I now understand what you are talking about. And why not check them, I'm already at it.
I'll also check under the battery to see if it had leaked, although a once over didn't show any signs, and this battery that's in there is brand new.
Thanks.
