HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads!
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From: D*ck ina Box
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads!
I got the new pads installed in the rear calipers but they're a little too close (1/8th inch) together to squeeze onto the larger sized eradispeeds +1 rotors.
I thought I read somewhere that you could loosen a connection a let a little pressure bleed off, opening the caliper wide enough to place onto the rotor.
Is this true and if so, what connection do I loosen?
If this isn't the fix, what do I do now :eek:
[Modified by Mean Green 2000, 7:41 AM 6/3/2002]
I thought I read somewhere that you could loosen a connection a let a little pressure bleed off, opening the caliper wide enough to place onto the rotor.
Is this true and if so, what connection do I loosen?
If this isn't the fix, what do I do now :eek:
[Modified by Mean Green 2000, 7:41 AM 6/3/2002]
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Newland US
Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (Mean Green 2000)
Mean Green 2000,
I've used a large C-clamp as a means to push the caliper piston back into it's bore enough to facilitate the installation of the caliper over the rotor.
Good luck.
Mark
I've used a large C-clamp as a means to push the caliper piston back into it's bore enough to facilitate the installation of the caliper over the rotor.
Good luck.
Mark
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Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (MDT)
how/where do you mount the clamp without destroying the pad and keep it (the piston) there while able to slide over the rotor :cheers:
Team Owner
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From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (MDT)
I've used a large C-clamp as a means to push the caliper piston back into it's bore enough to facilitate the installation of the caliper over the rotor.
Team Owner
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From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (Mike Mercury)
MG,
place a thin piece of plywood or similar between the clamp and the pad surface. Once you retract the caliper piston, then take off the clamp. It should stay in the retracted position.
place a thin piece of plywood or similar between the clamp and the pad surface. Once you retract the caliper piston, then take off the clamp. It should stay in the retracted position.
Thread Starter
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Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (Mike Mercury)
cool.....MDT just IM'd with the same info :D :cheers:
I'd blast thru this next time :D
I'd blast thru this next time :D
Le Mans Master
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From: Burlington ON
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Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (Mean Green 2000)
Just use one of the old pads and a C-clamp to compress the piston into the caliper far enough to fit it over the rotor. This is usually a standard procedure for changing pads because the worn out pads are always much thinner than the new ones. You could also loosen a bleeder screw and push the calipers in but then you risk the chance of sucking air in, and will make a mess with the fluid.
Thread Starter
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Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (MattG)
the clamp did the trick....thanks guys, damn this place rocks :cheers:
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Melting Slicks
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From: Gilbert, AZ, USA
Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (MattG)
C4C5 recommended the procedure of opening the bleeder screw, so you don't push the fluid, and any junk it contains, back up the line. It's a very good idea. While you're in there, air is no worry because it's a great idea to bleed anyway.
Sam
Sam
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From: Newport Michigan
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Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (Sam Lin)
Mark - given the age and mileage of your car, it would be a good idea to flush the old fluid and get some fresh stuff in there. I did mine this spring, and it was amazing how disgusting the old fluid was :eek:
If you do this, order a set of speedbleeders http://www.speedbleeder.com - makes tha job a piece of cake :yesnod:
[Modified by 70L46, 3:05 PM 6/2/2002]
If you do this, order a set of speedbleeders http://www.speedbleeder.com - makes tha job a piece of cake :yesnod:
[Modified by 70L46, 3:05 PM 6/2/2002]
Thread Starter
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Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (70L46)
great advice Sam, Bil :D :cheers:
I gotta go back in and paint the calipers and install s/s lines so I'll install the bleeders (already in garage) and flush/install new fluid at that time....very near future :D :cheers:
I gotta go back in and paint the calipers and install s/s lines so I'll install the bleeders (already in garage) and flush/install new fluid at that time....very near future :D :cheers:
Burning Brakes
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From: Cape Coral Florida
Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (Mean Green 2000)
Mark, be careful which brand of SS lines you use. I recall
a post about problems with a certain brand of SS lines
but I don't remember what brand it was.
a post about problems with a certain brand of SS lines
but I don't remember what brand it was.
Thread Starter
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Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (movinup)
thanks for the reminder.....I think the brand that wasn't causing any issues started with an "M"....I'll search before buying :D
Le Mans Master
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From: Chandler AZ
Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (Mean Green 2000)
We've never encountered any problems nor heard of any that I'm aware of with Goodridge... and we carry them in stock.
Good job on choice of rotors... I like them too... so much I retrofitted my 85 front and back brakes with front C5 Eradispeeds. Here's a pic of my fronts :)
Good job on choice of rotors... I like them too... so much I retrofitted my 85 front and back brakes with front C5 Eradispeeds. Here's a pic of my fronts :)
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Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (movinup)
Yes, Russells and Earls brake lines sometimes cause codes, abs related codes. Thats why we stopped carrying them. Goodridge are the only lines we have found to cause no problems.
Nate
Nate
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Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (Nate@xtreme)
guess I'm calling Nate again tomorrow :rolleyes: :jester :D :D :D
Safety Car
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From: Wilmington NC
Re: HELP!!!! Now Stuck on the Pads! (Mean Green 2000)
thanks for the reminder.....I think the brand that wasn't causing any issues started with an "M"....I'll search before buying :D
Use Goodridge Only!!!!!
