I'm installing a tick master cylinder this weekend and will need to bleed the system. Yes I did the search thing, I'm an info junky I don't do any thing with out researching the crap out of it. This winter I will install a new clutch/slave/remote bleeder and about a dozen other thing when I'm in there but for now it's just the MC. My question is on bleeding, has any one tried to do it this way from Jeremy Formato post?

"The easiest way that we have found is to pull the intake manifold for the C5 and C6 Corvettes. We have ported hundreds of manifolds so we have become proficient at pulling intake manifolds. (Total time to clean head ports and put it back on about 45min.) This will allow one to lay in and across the engine bay. With your head right at the firewall with a 9mm combination wrench and a light just barely have enough room to see the port, pop off the rubber cap (leave it off) and open it while someone else is depressing the clutch pedal. Bleed it just like a brake system, one person (A) holds pedal, the other (B) opens the port till fluid pours out and then closes, (A) pumps pedal till firm again and then repeat till fluid is clear, 3-12 cycles. Remember to check the reservoir! Refill it so you do not get any air in the line. Earlier F bodies and GTOs may be accessible from under the car and may not require pulling the intake manifold."
Thanks,
Dave

 

When I put a remote bleeder line on mine, I looked at every possible way of getting to the bleeder. The way you are talking seems the hardest way of all. the bleeder is near the top at the junction of the bell housing and the torque tube, and there is almost no clearance up there at all for my hands. I also tried from below, pulling the exhaust pipe, cats, the tunnel plate, etc. If your wrench slips out of your hand, it will be heading for a place that is mighty dark. Besides, if you bung up the threads on the bleeder, you will be up the [insert word here] creek. Mine was in really tight and had some heat cycles. The first 3-4 threads were galled and I had to get a tap to chase them so the fitting would thread in smoothly. At first i thought i had cross-threaded. I think this may be a reason some folks say the Tick bleeders leak (mine does not and it is working fine). If you have galled threads, you will ball metal up in the threads and make them feel like they are tight

Finally lowered the transaxle and moved it rearward about 8 inches to take out the bleed plug and put in the remote bleeder.

I have a feeling that is where you will end up, so as a suggestion, unless your master is broken, make preparations to put a remote bleed line in and do it all at once.