P0336 Code. Video HELP
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 169
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From: Simpsonville SC
P0336 Code. Video HELP
Ok guys this is going to be a real test diagnostic ability.. lol
The car is a 2000FRC with a 408 and a Auto swap. Car has been running just fine. No misses or anything. This code popped up on the dyno after a clean run. Here is the video
http://youtu.be/OPT2tsrMdIE
So you can see that in the video the car pulled smooth no issues. Later we did another pull that I didnt get on video.. It went up smooth.. coming back down it started popping and sputtering. Then would not start and has not started again.
So here is what its acting like. It acts like its 180 degrees out of timing. just pops and sputters. It turns over fine just no starting. Getting the P0336 Crank position code.
The car is a 2000FRC with a 408 and a Auto swap. Car has been running just fine. No misses or anything. This code popped up on the dyno after a clean run. Here is the video
http://youtu.be/OPT2tsrMdIE
So you can see that in the video the car pulled smooth no issues. Later we did another pull that I didnt get on video.. It went up smooth.. coming back down it started popping and sputtering. Then would not start and has not started again.
So here is what its acting like. It acts like its 180 degrees out of timing. just pops and sputters. It turns over fine just no starting. Getting the P0336 Crank position code.
Last edited by NEMESISVETTE; Sep 22, 2012 at 07:54 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 169
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From: Simpsonville SC
Here is what I have addressed so fare.
New crank position sensor ...........All good there.
New cam positon sensor.......... All good there.
Checked wires for visible problems Cam/Crank .........All good there.
Dropped oil. Checked it for material ............All good there.
New plugs ..............All good there.
Also pulled plugs, pulled fuel fuse and did a dry crank. ........All good there
Checked all fuses ect. ...........All good there.
New crank position sensor ...........All good there.
New cam positon sensor.......... All good there.
Checked wires for visible problems Cam/Crank .........All good there.
Dropped oil. Checked it for material ............All good there.
New plugs ..............All good there.
Also pulled plugs, pulled fuel fuse and did a dry crank. ........All good there
Checked all fuses ect. ...........All good there.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 169
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From: Simpsonville SC
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: Simpsonville SC
I will explain how its possible. The reluctor wheel is only tack welded in 2 spots. High horse power cars have been known to bust a tack and then only one is left to hold. Then that last tack lets go and the relucter just free spins. Only one of the blads came loose. So the crank position sensor was still getting a signal just at all the wrong times. Thats how its possible. In the back of my mind i had a feeling thats what it was but wasnt till I stuck my finger in the hole the crank position sensor resides did I put a finger on one of the relucter teeth and was able to move it up and down. It was still lined up just free spinning is all.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12,413
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From: Rio Rancho NM
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
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I'm in the same situation. Is this thread still alive. I just had a 416 ls3 put in my Z, I'm currently 24 degrees out of timing... Demanding 50 actually running 26. It was presumed to be this reluctor causing this. Is there anyway to fix this with the motor in car. Could the wheels be positioned and tacked and welded to crank if oil pan was pulled. Can you even pull the oil pan with motor in car.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,077
Likes: 4
From: Scarborough ONTARIO
jmac: unfortunately engine has to come out to tack weld reluctor wheel to crank. May be someone will chime in who did it while engine still in the car. I did install piston Rings while short block is still in the engine bay but thats a different story and dont need a weld.
Good thing is pulling engine in our car's is not too bad. GL.
Good thing is pulling engine in our car's is not too bad. GL.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
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From: Columbia SC
The reluctor wheel should not slip on to begin with. If it it slipped on the crank, it should have been replaced. I also do not see the correlation between HP, and breaking a weld. Whether the engine is capable of 300 HP, or 800 HP....rotation is the same....the mass is the same(of the reluctor), and the RPMs are the same.
In any case, my understanding is not important.
Good luck with the fix.
In any case, my understanding is not important.
Good luck with the fix.
An engine that can rotate quicker places a higher sheer stress on the reluctor wheel tack welds. It kind of works like pushing on something versus using an impact with both using the same weigh object. The impact will produce a bigger dent.
Last edited by dadaroo; May 18, 2014 at 09:27 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12,413
Likes: 501
From: Rio Rancho NM
I just wanted to update this mine was caused by the headers melting the harness to the CPS. I fixed the wires and gtg. OP hope all goes well
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
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Well I finally got engine pulled and pulled the crankshaft and the reluctor wheels had in fact moved. Took crank to machine shop today. Overall I was worried about the overall engine pulling phase out the top, I had helped with initial motor swap at another guys shop with lifts. This was alot more components to take loose and more time consuming, but definately doable. Still don't understand how i get the once in a blue moon reluctor wheel that spins on the crank. I could not move it by the way, but machine shop showed me where the two wheels had moved, really crazy. Callies crankshaft reluctor came pressed on from them. There customer service explained that it was the best part available from GM and not a Callies issue, kinda sucky customer service but whatever.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2015
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P0335 misfire
Thanx, KC