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Front lowering bolt stripped, how to remove?

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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 05:13 PM
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Default Front lowering bolt stripped, how to remove?

Ok guys need some help. Last week I lowered my car on stock bolts, or tried to. Rear worked flawlessly, front bolt heads are beyond stripped and ruined. I purchased the new front bolts from zip, but need to know how to get them out since I can't do it up top.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 08:17 PM
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Large channel locs or pipe wrench .

Loosen by gripping the adjuster by the rubber pad/bushing that is on the bottom side of spring (opposite end of the adjuster that you bugered up)

Before hand, soak(Threads of adjusters, top & bottom of spring) liberally with JB Blaster to loosen up the rust.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
Large channel locs or pipe wrench .

Loosen by gripping the adjuster by the rubber pad/bushing that is on the bottom side of spring (opposite end of the adjuster that you bugered up)

Before hand, soak(Threads of adjusters, top & bottom of spring) liberally with JB Blaster to loosen up the rust.
I agree, but will add that it may be required to remove the springs from the car to get adjuster out. Once the spring is out you can also tack weld a large nut to the top of the bad adjuster and then use a socket and breaker bar to get it out.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 08:41 PM
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just to add to what bumble said, if you get some aceton and some transmission fluid (any) and mix it 50/50, its better than even PB.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by sean.b
just to add to what bumble said, if you get some acetone and some auto transmission fluid (any) and mix it 50/50, its better than even PB.


Yep, must have read the same report I did. I mean, ever see an auto trans that didn't leak?

I think the best commercial stuff was Kroil (The oil that creeps for creeps who oil), Liquid Wrench then PB blaster.

Whatever you can do to get the lower control arm out of the way will make this a lot easier. I would be tempted to put a jack somehow under the spring and relieve tension on the lower control arm. Mark the alignment adjusters and remove them and lower the control arm.

Or, remove the caliper, rotor, shock and unbolt the upper control arm from the frame.

A lot of work.

The big channel locks will work, as well as heat on the bolt.

And all you wanted to do is lower the car a bit!

My drivers side was not only frozen in place, it was bent!
After I broke it free, I had to cut it in half to remove!

If you search my username, I think I had some photos of stock bolts.

Ron
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 09:30 PM
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I just had the same thing happen on mine , i soaked it in Kroil for 3 days and it wouldn''t budge. i ended up taking a nut 1/2" or 7/16" i can't remember, sat it up there and wire welded it in place so i could get a real wrench on it. The combination of a full size wrench and probably the heat from the welder did the trick. After screwing in and out several times it was as free as the other side. Good luck.

Last edited by bracketshark; Sep 23, 2012 at 09:40 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 09:33 PM
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I guess the Kroil didn't creep!
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 09:39 PM
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Perfect time for coilovers!!!!! oops

Last edited by bracketshark; Sep 24, 2012 at 08:11 AM.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by alxltd1
I agree, but will add that it may be required to remove the springs from the car to get adjuster out. Once the spring is out you can also tack weld a large nut to the top of the bad adjuster and then use a socket and breaker bar to get it out.
Don't take the spring out or do any welding, just disconnect the lower ball joint and move the control arm out of the way. You will have plenty of room to put a channel lock or other large wrench on the larger diameter base of the bolt.

Jack
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 10:20 AM
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Thanks guys for the advice got them out by using a pipe wrench to unscrew them from the bottom!
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cptinjak
Don't take the spring out or do any welding, just disconnect the lower ball joint and move the control arm out of the way. You will have plenty of room to put a channel lock or other large wrench on the larger diameter base of the bolt.

Jack
You would be surprised at how much torque you might need to get some of those REALLY frozen lowering bolts unstuck. I had to take the spring out of the car and clamp the bolt in a vise using the the spring as leverage and even that didn't do it without breaking the threaded sleeve loose from the spring.
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