Front lowering bolt stripped, how to remove?
Ok guys need some help. Last week I lowered my car on stock bolts, or tried to. Rear worked flawlessly, front bolt heads are beyond stripped and ruined
. I purchased the new front bolts from zip, but need to know how to get them out since I can't do it up top.
. I purchased the new front bolts from zip, but need to know how to get them out since I can't do it up top.
Large channel locs or pipe wrench .
Loosen by gripping the adjuster by the rubber pad/bushing that is on the bottom side of spring (opposite end of the adjuster that you bugered up)
Before hand, soak(Threads of adjusters, top & bottom of spring) liberally with JB Blaster to loosen up the rust.
Loosen by gripping the adjuster by the rubber pad/bushing that is on the bottom side of spring (opposite end of the adjuster that you bugered up)
Before hand, soak(Threads of adjusters, top & bottom of spring) liberally with JB Blaster to loosen up the rust.
Melting Slicks



Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 115
From: Odessa FL
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Large channel locs or pipe wrench .
Loosen by gripping the adjuster by the rubber pad/bushing that is on the bottom side of spring (opposite end of the adjuster that you bugered up)
Before hand, soak(Threads of adjusters, top & bottom of spring) liberally with JB Blaster to loosen up the rust.
Loosen by gripping the adjuster by the rubber pad/bushing that is on the bottom side of spring (opposite end of the adjuster that you bugered up)
Before hand, soak(Threads of adjusters, top & bottom of spring) liberally with JB Blaster to loosen up the rust.

Yep, must have read the same report I did. I mean, ever see an auto trans that didn't leak?

I think the best commercial stuff was Kroil (The oil that creeps for creeps who oil), Liquid Wrench then PB blaster.
Whatever you can do to get the lower control arm out of the way will make this a lot easier. I would be tempted to put a jack somehow under the spring and relieve tension on the lower control arm. Mark the alignment adjusters and remove them and lower the control arm.
Or, remove the caliper, rotor, shock and unbolt the upper control arm from the frame.
A lot of work.
The big channel locks will work, as well as heat on the bolt.
And all you wanted to do is lower the car a bit!
My drivers side was not only frozen in place, it was bent!
After I broke it free, I had to cut it in half to remove!
If you search my username, I think I had some photos of stock bolts.
Ron
I just had the same thing happen on mine , i soaked it in Kroil for 3 days and it wouldn''t budge. i ended up taking a nut 1/2" or 7/16" i can't remember, sat it up there and wire welded it in place so i could get a real wrench on it. The combination of a full size wrench and probably the heat from the welder did the trick. After screwing in and out several times it was as free as the other side. Good luck.
Last edited by bracketshark; Sep 23, 2012 at 09:40 PM.
Jack
You would be surprised at how much torque you might need to get some of those REALLY frozen lowering bolts unstuck. I had to take the spring out of the car and clamp the bolt in a vise using the the spring as leverage and even that didn't do it without breaking the threaded sleeve loose from the spring.














