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I'm hoping y'all can offer some assistance. When I purchased my 99 it was lowered to the max. Considering where I live, the number of speed bumps and "valleys" in the road, I asked the shop where I bought the car to raise it as high as it would go. Now, I'm wanting to take it back down to stock height to give it a more refined look.
When I asked my local dealer about it, the "Corvette" mechanic looked a little puzzled about how to do that particular process. He mentioned something about adjusting leaf springs, etc. Needless to say, I wasn't feeling real confident about that time.
Can someone tell me, or offer a link, that shows the bolts involved and how the process of lowering is done? I'm not sure it's something I would attempt, but hopefully I can get a better understanding of what's involved.
Also, when you measure your ride height, measure from point J and K (the jacking points on the frame rail).
If you wan't to return to stock heights the measurements are:
Base, FE1, FE3, FE4---------J Height (Curb)-----------K Height (Curb)
Service Preferred-----------153 mm (6.02 in)---------158 mm (6.22 in)
Service Allowable-----------153 mm (6.02 in)---------158 mm (6.22 in)
Lower the car, drive it around for a day, measure heights, adjust as needed, get alignment.
Okay Guys...this is good stuff. Since the car has been raised to its max, is there a way to determine how many threads (or how much of the bolt) should be visible on both front and rear if it is at or near the stock height? I guess what I'm getting at, if the dealer does this, I would hate to have to take the car back multiple times if it's not at the proper height the first time. Make sense?
Okay Guys...this is good stuff. Since the car has been raised to its max, is there a way to determine how many threads (or how much of the bolt) should be visible on both front and rear if it is at or near the stock height? I guess what I'm getting at, if the dealer does this, I would hate to have to take the car back multiple times if it's not at the proper height the first time. Make sense?
The procedure and height specification are in the shop manual, which the dealership should be following. Tell them you want the car returned to factory specs, if they are unable to do this simple task I would find a new shop.
Just an FYI.. number of threads showing isn't the most accurate way to determine ride height, the ONLY way to assure correct height is to measure at the proper points.
dblerman, thanks for the follow-up. Candidly, I am a bit unsure whether this dealership can actually do the job based on the mechanics comments when the service advisor and I were talking to him. Unfortunately, there aren't many options in this area. Think I'll call around and see what I can find out.
Thanks again.
Last edited by nmacdonald; Oct 22, 2012 at 08:02 PM.
dblerman, thanks for the follow-up. Candidly, I am a bit unsure whether this dealership can actually do the job based on the mechanics comments when the service advisor and I were talking to him. Unfortunately, there aren't many options in this area. Think I'll call around and see what I can find out.
Thanks again.
It's such a simple procedure that if a shop can't perform it I wouldn't let them touch my car. It's literally just turning 4 bolts and measuring. With a lift, it shouldn't take a shop tech more than 10 minutes.
You could also post in your regional forum and see if anyone local could help you out. All you need is a jack and a couple wrenches. It's literally a 20-30 minute job.
I am not an expert, however measuring using the body, which is plastic that is hung on seems to be a logical problem. Doing so assumes that both sides are exactly the same, which they may not be.
My intent is to simply offer a thought. I certainly may be wrong.
I am not an expert, however measuring using the body, which is plastic that is hung on seems to be a logical problem. Doing so assumes that both sides are exactly the same, which they may not be.
My intent is to simply offer a thought. I certainly may be wrong.
I did not use the fenders, but as described in post #3 above measured from the jacking points with the car on a level surface. Finding a level surface is the hard part. If you can get it in on an alignment rack that would be ideal.
I am not an expert, however measuring using the body, which is plastic that is hung on seems to be a logical problem. Doing so assumes that both sides are exactly the same, which they may not be.
My intent is to simply offer a thought. I certainly may be wrong.
Which is why in post #3 I said to measure at point J and K on the frame
Thanks to all. I'll do a quick check in the regional forum to see if I get any replies that are helpful. As indicated, a DIY hinges on finding a level service. I have the jack and jack stands...and a neighbor who is pretty good mechanically, so I'll ponder that one.
Find a shop that works on vettes.not a dealership.... should cost 100.00 to raise it up
Its not a bad idea to feel out local dealerships to see if they are worthless or not. The more options you have when you need something done, the better off you will be. If you ask their tech about your car that is lowered on stock bolts, and he doesn't know what you're talking about, then I guess you can cross that dealer off the list. It shouldn't be more than an hour's worth of labor anywhere.
Mine was slammed on stock bolts when I bought it. Handling was ok, but it rode like a buck board and bottomed out with little bumps on the freeway. I had it raised back up by a speed shop. We just eyeballed it until it looked like the right stance and looked like it would clear most bumps (vette size bumps). I think it ended up coming up about an inch and a quarter. Handling actually felt better and the ride was very much improved.