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In the process of installing headers, one side done, finishing tomorrow if possible. What is best for O2 sensors, using fronts in front and extending harness, or using rears in front and changing connector? Is there any difference in the sensitivity? I'll probably get codes even if I install rears, so that won't matter. (no cats)
In the process of installing headers, one side done, finishing tomorrow if possible. What is best for O2 sensors, using fronts in front and extending harness, or using rears in front and changing connector? Is there any difference in the sensitivity? I'll probably get codes even if I install rears, so that won't matter. (no cats)
I did new rears in front with adapters . And plugged the rear holes. Make double sure you run the left sensor to left frame rail plug. It's very easy to mix them because the way there angled.
I have no idea where the "you must use the rear in the front" on headers got started but the only reason the rears are useful is the longer harness. However, they don't plug in so you either need adapter harnesses or extend harnesses. If the fronts will work better then use them. If the rears would work better use them.
In using LG headers, they suggest using the rear sensors in front with their adapter harnesses and then plugging the rear O2 bungs. Next would be to get the rear sensors tuned out. That's how my car is done, as they recommend and it works just fine. My car still passes NJ inspection for emissions, which is all we get checked for nowadays. They don't look at anything else anymore.
One more vote for using the rear 02's onto the front locations---- Using My EFILIVE data logger I have proven it to myself that the rears do in fact work better----They heat up quicker--settle CLOSER to .450 millivolts (14.68 AFR) on LT headers than the stock front units in closed loop--and oscillate faster than the fronts with LT's
One more vote for using the rear 02's onto the front locations---- Using My EFILIVE data logger I have proven it to myself that the rears do in fact work better----They heat up quicker--settle CLOSER to .450 millivolts (14.68 AFR) on LT headers than the stock front units in closed loop--and oscillate faster than the fronts with LT's
Did you use new sensors Tom? Or used ones?
With my coated XS Power headers, I have no issues with O2 switching....as far as I know. I used new GM Sensors which are a different design from the originals.
I will say that the position of the O2's isn't much different from stock. No cable extenders needed.
There are a few different colors used depending on the sensor. You can find different connection patterns on line if you search for the sensor manufacturer. Typically, there are 2 wires the same color for the heater and then a dark colored wire which is the sensor high signal (purple or black for example) and a light colored wire which is the sensor low signal (grey or white for example).
Last edited by lionelhutz; Dec 3, 2012 at 02:42 PM.
Did you use new sensors Tom? Or used ones?
With my coated XS Power headers, I have no issues with O2 switching....as far as I know. I used new GM Sensors which are a different design from the originals.
I will say that the position of the O2's isn't much different from stock. No cable extenders needed.
Ron
I used my old ones-----from the rear----However I am hearing (as you say) that GM did change the fronts to a better design and they seem to work better with LT's--Just depends on what your data logger tells you about the voltages and oscillation speed--
Did you use new sensors Tom? Or used ones?
With my coated XS Power headers, I have no issues with O2 switching....as far as I know. I used new GM Sensors which are a different design from the originals.
I will say that the position of the O2's isn't much different from stock. No cable extenders needed.
Ron
Where is the bung located? It seems like if it was anywhere on the collectors, an extension would be needed. Mine are some generics (probably Chinese), passenger side has bung on x pipe after collector. There is also bungs for the rears, if I didn't think it would still throw a code, I would use them all. My Camaro SS throws codes with the rears in place.
I double-checked, mine have plugged bungs in top of collectors, looks like they will reach also. Wish I would have checked earlier, headers are in place, will have to take trans tunnel plate off to install there...oh well. Did you use rears? If so, do you get codes?
No point since you're not installing cats. I installed them because I had to pass a tailpipe sniffer so I figured why not since they'd give an early warning off a bad cat before hitting the test station. And they don't throw codes with the high flow cats in place. Now, this area switched to a OBDII test so I could likely get away without the rear O2's.
One more vote for using the rear 02's onto the front locations---- Using My EFILIVE data logger I have proven it to myself that the rears do in fact work better----They heat up quicker--settle CLOSER to .450 millivolts (14.68 AFR) on LT headers than the stock front units in closed loop--and oscillate faster than the fronts with LT's
So, the suggestion is using the rear o2's in place of the fronts connected to the front o2 harness via adapters? Of course with the rears tuned out as I already have. Hmm, gotta try this soon since the heaters on my Bosch o2's are taking a dump.
I did new rears in front with adapters . And plugged the rear holes. Make double sure you run the left sensor to left frame rail plug. It's very easy to mix them because the way there angled.
So, the suggestion is using the rear o2's in place of the fronts connected to the front o2 harness via adapters? Of course with the rears tuned out as I already have. Hmm, gotta try this soon since the heaters on my Bosch o2's are taking a dump.
YES---depends on cost too--sometime sjust getting the newer restyled front ones will be cheaper than getting adapter to fit the rear pigtail
I would never re-wire or cut a manufactured pigtail and adapt it to fit--I've seen too many failures even with the best of"electricians" trying to solder or wire connect pigtails--
Well. looks like bungs on top of collectors were plugged for a reason, sensors would hit torque tube there. Will the car make it to the exhaust guy 5 miles away w/o any sensors at all till he can install bungs in another location? Stupid things touch the bellhousing also, going to have to take care of that too.