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Re: Is using a Lift at the Jacking Points Bad ? (MiamiDave)
I have and use Kent-Moore lift pucks (purchased from Fichtner Chevrolet). They work great for be. I can not see why someone would not have luck using them except that maybe they cost alot more than wood blocks.
I keep my lift pucks int he car incase I need unexpected service while on the road. Chances are too good that the shop you end up at wil not have lift pucks.
Re: Is using a Lift at the Jacking Points Bad ? (SoCal C5)
From what I've seen here, the lift pucks don't have the surface area to spread the weight. They are pretty small. It looks like home-made hockey pucks are better choices...
Re: Is using a Lift at the Jacking Points Bad ? (Mike Schriber)
I use the Kent Moore pads that GM recommends. The frame dimple on each side is the exact diameter of the pads. If they were a little larger in diameter (hockey puck size) it probably would not have happened since there would have been more load bearing surface. I went for several years using a short piece of two by four between the jack and the frame and never had any damage (not even paint scratches). As soon as I went to the pucks I got the frame dimples.
As for the 97 manual being different in this area it probably isn't. The text in mine gives instructions for jacking on the frame but the diagram clearly shows the jacking locations are only on the cross members. While the shipping points are shown as frame contact hoist locations.
Bill
Re: Is using a Lift at the Jacking Points Bad ? (Bill Dearborn)
As for the 97 manual being different in this area it probably isn't. The text in mine gives instructions for jacking on the frame but the diagram clearly shows the jacking locations are only on the cross members. While the shipping points are shown as frame contact hoist locations.
Fooled me too for a while. If you look REALLY close at the diagram you'll see that the shipping points are shaded with BOTH the contact hoist AND the floor jack legend, whereas the cross members are shaded with only the floor jack legend.
It is odd that the 2000 service manual says no jack stands on the frame rails. I would still like to learn more about that.
Re: Is using a Lift at the Jacking Points Bad ? (allanlaw)
00 Service Manuual re. "jack stands" you place them under the front
and/or rear crossmember and make sure you span at least 2 suspension crossmember ribs.
Re: Is using a Lift at the Jacking Points Bad ? (white top)
00 Service Manuual re. "jack stands" you place them under the front
and/or rear crossmember and make sure you span at least 2 suspension crossmember ribs.
Doesn't sound real stable to me. When you get a chance, could you read it again?
Re: Is using a Lift at the Jacking Points Bad ? (MiamiDave)
From what I've seen here, the lift pucks don't have the surface area to spread the weight. They are pretty small. It looks like home-made hockey pucks are better choices...
the Kent-Moore lift pucks specified in the service manual are pretty darn close to the same size as a hockey puck. I have not held them face to face but visully they look to be about the same size.
There are three reasons I think that lift pucks are better than hockey pucks. First the lift pucks fit into the holes in the frame so there is no chance they will move and end up touching the rocker panels. (You can add a bolt to the or eyelet to your hocky pucks to do the same thing). The second thing is that lift pucks are steal with a rubber face where they contact the frame. As a result the lift pucks are more stable because they do not deflect as much as solid rubber hockey pucks. Third I have found it a lot easier to convince mechanics (at a tire shop for example) that they need to use a special tool specified in the service manual than my home-made hockey puck gadgets. I have used both, I would use hockey pucks again without concern, but, given the choice I prefer the lift pucks.
Re: Is using a Lift at the Jacking Points Bad ? (white top)
00 Service Manuual re. "jack stands" you place them under the front
and/or rear crossmember and make sure you span at least 2 suspension crossmember ribs.
I remember reading the same thing in my '01 manual.
I agree with Allan, it is not the best situation. I am worried about braking the aluminum ribs on the cross member. I place my floor jacks under the frame then put jack stands under the cross members as described above (for safety purposes only) then I leave the jacks in place to support the car.
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