Same DRL Bulb Went Out Again! Help, please?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 145
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From: Chicago IL
Same DRL Bulb Went Out Again! Help, please?
So, I replaced the passenger side DRL bulb on my 98 'vert 80k mi. about four months ago (yes, the correct, heavy duty one). I warmed it up today after a month or so in storage, and the same side was out again. The car is ALWAYS stored inside and rarely gets a hose put to it (maybe 2-3x/ year)-just regular dusting and detailer. I checked similar DRL postings, but most point to water incursion into the housing from cracks caused by heat. All other lights work fine. Assuming no water damage/corrosion, any other ideas why the same side would have gone out so fast?
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 687
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From: Kemah Texas
So, I replaced the passenger side DRL bulb on my 98 'vert 80k mi. about four months ago (yes, the correct, heavy duty one). I warmed it up today after a month or so in storage, and the same side was out again. The car is ALWAYS stored inside and rarely gets a hose put to it (maybe 2-3x/ year)-just regular dusting and detailer. I checked similar DRL postings, but most point to water incursion into the housing from cracks caused by heat. All other lights work fine. Assuming no water damage/corrosion, any other ideas why the same side would have gone out so fast?
Last edited by tomlink; Jan 13, 2013 at 08:46 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 145
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From: Chicago IL
So, even though the car is bone dry, it's still possible that a tiny amount of moisture from a while ago could have killed the new bulb? It worked for several months just fine after I replaced it. I don't even think I washed the car since then. I guess I'll have a much closer look in the spring. Any other suggestions?
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Oklahoma City
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17,'19,'22
It is most likely water. Almost every C5 will eventually have the problem of the turn signal housing melting/cracking near the bulb and letting in water. I tried epoxy and a bunch of bulbs but only fixed it properly by buying new housings and LED turn signal/DRL and side markers from JW Motoring. Switchback function works great, LEDs look great, and no heat.
really the only way to do it. If you replace the housings and keep the stock bulbs they'll burn right through again. We do offer a few replacement housings and led bulbs (amber, white, and switchbacks). You'll also want a hyperflash harness which we'll have in later this month.
It adds up a bit, but better than replacing housings and fixing the issue multiple times.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 107
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From: Knoxville TN
^ plus your car looks sooo much cleaner with the updated housings. I didnt realize both mine had heat cracks till after the swap out. Installed LEDs, cleared out turns and backup plate....really looks sharp and I don't have to worry about bulb heat issues.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
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From: Kingston Ontario
I've installed bulbs and had them break or burn-out(flash mark) with-in seconds. I don't believe the manufacturing quality is what it used to be; maybe explains why you typically see bulbs for sale in two-packs! 
Quality aside; I always attempt to treat the new bulbs literally with kid gloves! I make every effort not to touch the glass portion with bare hands as the oil from your skin transferred to the glass leaves a residue which apparently promotes over-heating hot spots! I don't know that this theory has been technically proven, but I hear it frequently. I will normally use a tissue to hold the glass portion when installing the bulb.
The fact that your vehicle sat for that extended period of time doesn't alleviate moisture as a factor. Condensation easily takes place with a given temperature change. Hot/warm to cold/cool. In the past on questionable sockets I've used a bit of di-electric grease on the contact points of the bulb and socket. "Permatex" has a good quality type di-electric grease.
I'm with others also that if the housing is cracked it needs to be permanently repaired or replaced.
Try again.
Dan
Quality aside; I always attempt to treat the new bulbs literally with kid gloves! I make every effort not to touch the glass portion with bare hands as the oil from your skin transferred to the glass leaves a residue which apparently promotes over-heating hot spots! I don't know that this theory has been technically proven, but I hear it frequently. I will normally use a tissue to hold the glass portion when installing the bulb.
The fact that your vehicle sat for that extended period of time doesn't alleviate moisture as a factor. Condensation easily takes place with a given temperature change. Hot/warm to cold/cool. In the past on questionable sockets I've used a bit of di-electric grease on the contact points of the bulb and socket. "Permatex" has a good quality type di-electric grease.
I'm with others also that if the housing is cracked it needs to be permanently repaired or replaced.
Try again.
Dan
