I was at a Car Show Sunday and a guy came up and told me was car was junk. It has a V Code ABS Module and they can't be repaired! Mine is just fine now. My question is, Will they all go bad, some of them go bad or may it never go bad. I am strongly considering trading the car in. Two other friends in our club also have the the same problem. They have Pace Cars. Show I get rid of it quick or just wait and see if it breaks and hopefully someone will fix them by then.

 

What language is this?

 

What do you mean, what language is this? This is what I was told it was called and everyplace I call they seem to know what I am talking about!

 

No-one will be fixing them, except messing with the relays on the one board. Possibly, but I believe it's not likely, a manufacturing company will license all the required data from GM so they can manufacture replacement modules.

For the most part, the manufacturing methods on the main logic board mean the module is scrap when a part on the logic board fails.

If you really wanted to, you could upgrade to the 01+ ABS.

 

Is it really possible to retrofit the car to put in a newer module?

 

I see no reason you couldn't if you really wanted to do it.

V means you have AH so all the sensors and wires are in your car that also connect to the newer system. The wires are even all the same colors between the 2 systems.

You'd need the newer bracket and the complete module, BPMV & ECBM, and you'd have to re-work the lines because they connect a little differently.

I'm not positive but it might require a newer BCM to communicate correctly.

I haven't done it yet because mine works but I might try it if my module fails. I have the M version and I have another ECBM sitting in my shed I aquired years ago so I might be also just able to use it if mine fails.

 

Donald, yes it's a pretty scary thing.
In my experience and research, I've concluded that the biggest failures seem to be the ABS motor dragging, and the relays in the EBCM failing.
Of course there are many other possibilities, very few of which seem reopairable.
There is a posted fix for replacing the relays in the EBCM, but no real fix for the dragging motor (that I have found).
These two issues can be correlated somewhat - when the motor drags, it draws huge current through the relay, damaging it.
If you are getting a Code 1243, then this is happening, and it can be "Partially" addressed. The dragging motor is apparantly due to crud/corrosion/dirty brushes; but currently I have not seen a way to access/dismantle the motor to clean it up. So, the next best thing is to exercise the motor periodically by hooking it up to 12V and running it for several short bursts. Do a search herein for the methods.

But, if you get a code 1243 or similar motor-related code, the safe thing to do is avoid engaging the ABS or traction control until the motor has been loosened up. Otherwise, the dragging motor is burning down the relay when you use it.

I've limped through my Code 1243 for 5 years or so by running the motor occasionally via a permanent little shorting wire I hooked to the motor input terminal wire and routed outside the module. The motor loosens up and I'm good for a few months.

Just hoping I can keep it going until someone tears into a motor module and finds a way to clean it up permanently.

DG

 

I couldn't find how to run the motor. I haven't used the traction control button since I have had the car and I really don't think the lady who purchased the car new used it. Will this help from getting the codes?

 

jack both rear tires off of the ground and put the car in gear. the ABS will kick on and you will hear the abs motor run once you hit the right speed. (i dont remember off hand but it is low) It is supposed to clear the old fluid out of the abs motor and keep any brake fluid sludge from forming.

 

That will not kick in the ABS. It will probably trigger traction control which would cause the pump to run.

OP: If the unit goes bad the car is still driveable, you just will not have ABS, TC or AH if you have AH. There were a lot of cars produced before yours that didn't have those features either.

Bill

 

There are vendors working on a fix as we speak. Chuck Cow has had success in repairing them!

 

Yes, just above idle in 1st in a 6-speed and the TC comes on which runs the pump.


Yes, the relay. If anything else fails you're SOL.

 

I have an automatic. Couldn't you just put it in gear and idle down the street for a short distance, instead of jacking up the car. I don't have a problem yet, just trying to prolong the unit.

 

How are you going to make the back wheels turn and keep the front wheels from rotating just driving the car down the street?

 

I was not aware that you had to keep the from wheels from turning!

 

Well, we're mentioning ways to run the ABS pump and traction control won't kick in when you're just driving down the street.

 

Since I don't use the active handling would it be better to leave it alone or exercise the pump? I don't even have the original push button in the car. I purchased one to paint , and it is not the same. I still have the original.

 

Yes, you can still exercise the pump. It's one of the things you can do to keep the system from having issues. You could also just brake hard in the rain and kick the ABS on to exercise it every now and then. Or, you could get a place to do a full flush of the brake system including running the pump and operating the valves in the ABS module to flush the old fluid out of it.

 

I just ran the car with the rear wheels in the air for about 30 seconds. I got a message on the computer that the Active Handling was "Active" Does this sound correct for what I should have received? Thanks!

 

Probably, you should be able to hear the ABS pump running.