Thinking on lowering vette on stock bolts. Don't want it to ride terrible so how much can I take it down without screwing up to the ride to bad? Also, I know front needs lined up after lowering, but does the rear need it too? thanks.

 

I took mine down as far as it would go as per info from the forum. I didn't cut the front bushings or replace the rear bolts. It rides a little rougher, not bad, but it looks much better. I also performed an all wheel alignment afterwards as recommended. Do a search and you'll find a bunch of info. Good luck and post pics.
Try this link.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13599961522094

 

I lowered mine on stock bolts then went lower with the zip corvette lowering kit. And of course got an alignment after the suspension settled in.

 

thanks for the info! now if it would just stop snowing here!

 

When I lowered mine the max on stock bolts the ride was just barely stiffer. Not a lot. The handling was greatly improved though. Really reduced the body rolling etc... Looked a ton better too.

FOR SURE get it aligned after. You will wear out the inside's of all 4 tires if you don't.

Toque

 

you should do an all wheel alignment afterwards I did mine at Les Schwab it was around $69.00

 

+1; what till it settles and then get an alignment. I had mine aligned immediately after the lowering and my tires started to wear on the insides.

 

Very good point !

Toque

 

Here is a step by step as to how to do it the right way not screw up your handling.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1576940245-post92.html

Anybody who has lowered it and said they've noticed rougher ride is hitting the bump stops.

Those who have lowered it more and say it handles a lot flatter, that's because the body can't roll when the suspension is bottomed out.

Those who lowered it more and said it feels like a go-kart are right, it does, because go-karts don't have any suspension either.

If you take your car to a true high performance shop (like Phonenix) who know how to set up these cars, it will come back lowered about 3/4 of an inch. Do yourself a favor and do it right.

Finally, these cars are approaching 10 years old. It is very common to have problems with the front spring bolts being stuck. You can easily ruin the bolt or the spring if you aren't careful. First thing is to get some PB blaster and soak the front bolts before you try to get them apart. Then proceed carefully, and that is particulary true if the car has ever been driven in the salt.

 

Yes you will need a 4 W alignment. But before you do have it leveled on the alignment rack! You can't do this in your garage. I tried even using a laser and it still was off. I found an alignment shop that would let me do the leveling.

Also, as a FYI, Stock ride height has only 1" of travel before you hit the bump stops inside the shock dust cover (FE1, Ibelieve Z06 has 1 1/2"). So if you lower your car 1" you WILL be riding on the bump stops :-(. So your best bet is to cut down your bump stops.

 

great info all, thanks!

 

My car was lowered fully on stock bolts when I bought it and it rode rough. The roads around here just aren't that smooth. I raised it a bit and cut the bump stops in 1/2 and it's better.

Saying there is 1" of travel at stock ride height is wrong. I still have almost 2" in the rear with my car lowered. I have no idea on the front because I'd have to pull the spring to really measure for sure. Also, if you see 1" at the shock that's about 2" at the wheel. The shock is at an angle so it takes more movement in the arm to move the shock and then the shock isn't at the end of the arm so their is the lever ratio of the arm involved as well.

Make sure you get a good alignment. Look at places like VB&P or Pfadt for alignment specs if you don't know what is good. Also, make sure the shop sticks to the exact numbers side to side. The only thing that should vary is the caster where a little more in the LF can help compensate for road crown.

 

You are right about the location/angle of the shock. However, I think you are wrong about it making a 2:1 difference at the wheel. The shocks sit nearly vertical and the bottoms are quite close to the inside of the wheel. I am referring to the travel of the shocks. The amount of free travel depends on your suspension option. My Z06 springs have 2 1/2" in the rear and 2" in the front WITHOUT bump stops. The height of the bump stop varies depending on the shocks you have. My F45 shocks had 1" thick bump stops. I believe stock FE1 shocks have the same height. So subtract that from the travel and you see what I am saying. Check your bump stops! I am currently riding on Koni FSDs without bump stops.

I have used a permanent marker to put a line on the shock shaft to see how much travel I typically experience. The line wears off with use so you can see how much travel is typical. I am at stock ride height and about 1 3/4" have worn off. I wouldn't lower my car any more than 3/4", which is what the factory recommends. There is a post on the forum where someone went through an iteration process to see how much he could lower his vette and how much he had to cut is bump stops to accommodate the adjustment. You should read that post.

 

I likely have read the post. I have cut my bump stops. I have my suspension setup to get the maximum travel where rubber touching the fender lip limits it. The travel at the wheel is what counts and it's signficantly more than the travel the shock has.