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I cut about an inch off the stock shifter and it was a nice improvement. It is still one of my favorite. I did eventually move to an aftermarket shifter and did the anti-venom mod but the shortened stocker is still a winner. Leave enough of the slot so you can go back to stock if you sell or just want a change.
Do yourself a favor and ditch the stock pelican head shift ****. That is a big problem itself along with that stupid 'demon key' locking system.
I went to a leather covered ball of my own design but any ball is better.
I would say NO---The shift throw on an aftermarker shifter shortens the throw
by repositioning it's attachments and location---
A "cut" shifter does not shorten the throw--it only lowers the shift **** to increase the shifter ratio---( sorta like going from a 1.7 rocker ratio to a 1.8)
Many times a cut shifter will actually be HARDER to get into gear--If you look at a truck for example they have a 3 ft shifter handle---could you imagine how hard it would be to shift if the level was only 1 ft long ?? Even though this example is extreme the same principal applys---
It's simple geometry; the longer or shorter the throw of the shifter ****, the more or less force to move the gears. So, if you cut down a stock shifter from, say 6" throw, to 5" throw to match the throw of an aftermarket shifter, the force required to shift will be very nearly the same - nearly - read on.
The two caveats to this simple see-saw math are:
- internal friction differences in the pivots of the respective shifters.
But a well-oiled stocker has very low frictional drag.
- a vertically higher pivot point as in most aftermarket shifters will result in a more direct force vector from the lower arm to the shift rod as it moves to the extremes of travel. In other words, the lower arm will be applying force to the shift rod more directly forward or backwards, rather than vectoring a portion of the force up or down. That's where the difference in the aftermarket feel comes from. Of course, with a higher pivot point, the upper arm with the **** will then vector more force up or down; but this can be compensated by the driver's hand changing the angle of his force input slightly as the shifter moves.
Anyway, so much for the mumbo-jumbo.
I cut my stocker down 9/16 inch a long time ago, and like it much better. Yes, shifter force is a tad higher, but not really noticeable after a day or two, and my hand no longer changes channels on the radio when I shift. If you re-use the stock ****, about that far is all the stock boot will slide down and still fit. Also, the little wedgie
will still seat down without modification.
Depending on how much tinkering you like to do ......
I cut off the ball under the shifter and extended it by 1/2". Then I cut some 1/2" aluminum to put under shifter mounting flange and cut 1/2" off the threaded end of the shifter. End result is same length shifter with short throws and smooth / easy shifting.
I'll post some picture if you want to see (they're on my other computer).
I did the popular method of just cutting down the length on my previous car but didn't want the "import tuner" look of the stubby shifter on the corvette.
Depending on how much tinkering you like to do ......
I cut off the ball under the shifter and extended it by 1/2". Then I cut some 1/2" aluminum to put under shifter mounting flange and cut 1/2" off the threaded end of the shifter. End result is same length shifter with short throws and smooth / easy shifting.
I'll post some picture if you want to see (they're on my other computer).
Rob, post that up, I have never seen anyone do that
I've had the stock shifter in all my Z06's over the past decade
Welded together (no laughing at my welds, it hasn't broken)
Spacer to be installed under the mounting plate:
No pictures of it on the car, it looks stock!
Now for my latest trick ..... I'm almost done squeezing a C6Z06 K&N air bridge / filter and custom cold box on the C5. That thing is massive compared to the stock C5 setup!