C5 Tech Corvette Tech/Performance: LS1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Tech Topics, Basic Tech, Maintenance, How to Remove & Replace
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

2000 Corvette Engine Build

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 10, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #1  
00Vette04GTO's Avatar
00Vette04GTO
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Default 2000 Corvette Engine Build

I have a 2000 Corvette and I am going to have a motor built for it.

First question is I am looking at Thompson Motorsports to do the build. Anyone have any experience with them?

Any recommendations on what HP rating I should be targeting to still have a streetable ride? With stock rear end and automatic trans. I was thinking 450? Would 500 be too much to drive daily?

I am looking to use a new 5.7 LS1 block. Thompson motorsports said they'd recommend using a 5.3 aluminum block bored to 5.7 due to better oil flow. Anyone have any opinions on this? To me it just seems I'd want a 5.7, but if the oil flow thing is true I guess I'd want the 5.3 bored?

Any recommendations on cam? Or maximum size cam and torque converter combo I'd want to use to keep MPG as good as possible and daily drivability?

Should I be looking to go 383 stroker, or keep the 350 displacement?

How much HP difference is there between shorty and longtube headers? I'd like to use shorties for ease of install. If I went with longtube do they generally fit vette's without having to drop/replace the kmember?

How good is the intake that comes on the 00 vette. Am I good to use it or should I get a FAST intake or another generation GM intake?

How good is the stock throttle body, and how much bigger should I go?

Thanks for any advice (I am new to the vette world ),
Mike.
Reply
Old Feb 10, 2013 | 02:14 PM
  #2  
RonSSNova's Avatar
RonSSNova
Safety Car
10 Year Member
All Eyes On Me
Photogenic
Top Answer: 1
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 404
From: Portland OR
Default

If they are doing the engine, wouldn't you let them pick the cam?
When you speak hp, are you talking at the crank or the wheels? 500 at the wheels from a 346 it pretty radical. Especially for an auto.
What gears do you have? Most were 2.73, you will want to switch to 3.42.
You will need a converter. An upgraded trans is also advisable.
A 383 makes it all easier. Less radical to get to the same hp level.
Since you will be removing the engine, adding long tubes will be easy, Just lay them in before dropping the new engine in. Probably 20hp better than shorties.
For intakes, the 2001 and later are better. Commonly called the LS6 intake.

Doing the work yourself? It's a big project! And will cost you some serious bucks to have done for you. I'm thinking $15K pretty easy.


Ron
Reply
Old Feb 10, 2013 | 02:34 PM
  #3  
00Vette04GTO's Avatar
00Vette04GTO
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Default

Originally Posted by RonSSNova
If they are doing the engine, wouldn't you let them pick the cam?
When you speak hp, are you talking at the crank or the wheels? 500 at the wheels from a 346 it pretty radical. Especially for an auto.
What gears do you have? Most were 2.73, you will want to switch to 3.42.
You will need a converter. An upgraded trans is also advisable.
A 383 makes it all easier. Less radical to get to the same hp level.
Since you will be removing the engine, adding long tubes will be easy, Just lay them in before dropping the new engine in. Probably 20hp better than shorties.
For intakes, the 2001 and later are better. Commonly called the LS6 intake.

Doing the work yourself? It's a big project! And will cost you some serious bucks to have done for you. I'm thinking $15K pretty easy.


Ron
I do plan on letting them pick the cam, but the question was to find out where a cam might become to radical for the street. I look forward to some camming when idling, but not looking for something that will be a pain to drive redlight to redlight. I have had several muscle cars in the past but never went past the 400hp level.

As far as the rear end ratio, I was thinking with a lot of HP I wouldnt need to step up the gearing. I always have had 3.73 or 4.11 depending on manual or auto, but this was with a lower hp car. Wouldnt the tires want to do nothing but break loose if I step the rear end up with that much HP? Like I said this is my first vette, but have had several F Bodies and a GTO and they already want to break loose (which is fun but with more HP it would require a lot of suspension and tires to put the power to the ground)

I will be doing the install myself, but having the engine built. And BTW: I was talking HP at the motor.

Any other info/advice would be appreciated. I do not know how well the C5's handle horsepower, and I want something streetable but on the edge of insane without having to completely replace my suspension if possible.

Last edited by 00Vette04GTO; Feb 10, 2013 at 02:40 PM.
Reply
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 11:43 AM
  #4  
00Vette04GTO's Avatar
00Vette04GTO
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Default

I am looking to use a new 5.7 LS1 block. Thompson motorsports said they'd recommend using a 5.3 aluminum block bored to 5.7 due to better oil flow. Anyone have any opinions on this? To me it just seems I'd want a 5.7, but if the oil flow thing is true I guess I'd want the 5.3 bored?
One of the main things I am curious for answers about is the 5.7 Block VS the 5.3 Block bored to 5.7. Is it true the 5.3's have better oil flow? Is the 5.3 bored the way to go?

Last edited by 00Vette04GTO; Feb 11, 2013 at 11:45 AM.
Reply
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 04:39 PM
  #5  
00Vette04GTO's Avatar
00Vette04GTO
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Default

I would be happy to provide this forum with pics and a writeup, build specs, and dyno results for my project if you guys will help me make sure I'm heading in the right direction. The 5.3 vs 5.7 block is a big question I need answered if possible. I am looking to have Thompson start the engine build this week when I have my facts straight.
Reply
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 06:10 PM
  #6  
RonSSNova's Avatar
RonSSNova
Safety Car
10 Year Member
All Eyes On Me
Photogenic
Top Answer: 1
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 404
From: Portland OR
Default

Originally Posted by 00Vette04GTO
I do plan on letting them pick the cam, but the question was to find out where a cam might become to radical for the street. I look forward to some camming when idling, but not looking for something that will be a pain to drive redlight to redlight. I have had several muscle cars in the past but never went past the 400hp level.

As far as the rear end ratio, I was thinking with a lot of HP I wouldnt need to step up the gearing. I always have had 3.73 or 4.11 depending on manual or auto, but this was with a lower hp car. Wouldnt the tires want to do nothing but break loose if I step the rear end up with that much HP? Like I said this is my first vette, but have had several F Bodies and a GTO and they already want to break loose (which is fun but with more HP it would require a lot of suspension and tires to put the power to the ground)

I will be doing the install myself, but having the engine built. And BTW: I was talking HP at the motor.

Any other info/advice would be appreciated. I do not know how well the C5's handle horsepower, and I want something streetable but on the edge of insane without having to completely replace my suspension if possible.
Ah, 500 at the crank is pretty easy. Doesn't even take a lot of cam. between 226 and 230 @ .050 intake should do it. And as long as the lobe sep stays at 113-114, the idle will crackle, not thump.
With good heads of course. Stock 243 heads work well.

3.42 gears are a nice setup for the A4, and the beauty here is that all the stick cars came with 3.42 diff. so just swap the entire unit. If you shop smart, a good 3rib 3.42 diff can be had for $500.

Good to hear you will turn the bolts!

If you were to wish for a 1/4 mile ET, what would it be?

My car is pretty mellow, yet knocking on the high tens. I read everything I could here, drew on my muscle car drag race experience, bought used everywhere I could and have a good result.

it's fun stuff!

Ron
Reply
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 07:23 PM
  #7  
The Void's Avatar
The Void
Instructor
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Siloam Springs AR
Default

If I were starting with a blank sheet I would use a 6.2 ls3 block. The price difference if you are buying new isn't very much. You would have access square port heads. The ls3 intake flows really good and is really cheap. More displacement will let you hit your power goals with a less radical cam.

If you are trying to reuse parts you already have it might be a different story.
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 09:48 AM
  #8  
00Vette04GTO's Avatar
00Vette04GTO
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Default

Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Ah, 500 at the crank is pretty easy. Doesn't even take a lot of cam. between 226 and 230 @ .050 intake should do it. And as long as the lobe sep stays at 113-114, the idle will crackle, not thump.
With good heads of course. Stock 243 heads work well.

3.42 gears are a nice setup for the A4, and the beauty here is that all the stick cars came with 3.42 diff. so just swap the entire unit. If you shop smart, a good 3rib 3.42 diff can be had for $500.

Good to hear you will turn the bolts!

If you were to wish for a 1/4 mile ET, what would it be?

My car is pretty mellow, yet knocking on the high tens. I read everything I could here, drew on my muscle car drag race experience, bought used everywhere I could and have a good result.

it's fun stuff!

Ron
I would like to see mid-low 11s and I would be happy. I'm trying to find the happy median between daily driver and weekends at the track.

One of the cams I am talking with the builder about is 226 232 @50 with a 112lsa, though I am considering going with a slightly bigger cam.

Looking at a 10.5 to 1 compression ratio with 421 heads.

Probably going to run 40# injectors.

Think I should go with a high pressure or volume oil pump, or keep the standard one? I've seen threads going both directions on this subject.

I've been calling around trying to find a good transmission shop to build my automatic to handle the power. Not having too much luck so far. I am assuming I need to have my clutches and bands replaced/upgraded. Also a 3000 Stall converter. Anything I'm missing here?
Reply
Corvette Stories

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

story-0

5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2

 Michael S. Palmer
story-1

2027 Corvette vs The World: Every Model vs Closest Competitor

 Joe Kucinski
story-2

10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!

 Joe Kucinski
story-3

5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!

 Joe Kucinski
story-4

2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!

 Joe Kucinski
story-5

10 Things C8 Corvette Owners Hate (But Won't Tell You)

 Joe Kucinski
story-6

10 Best Corvettes Coming to Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach 2026!

 Brett Foote
story-7

Every Corvette Grand Sport Explained! (C2, C4, C6, C7, & C8)

 Joe Kucinski
story-8

Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!

 Michael S. Palmer
story-9

5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!

 Joe Kucinski
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 09:51 AM
  #9  
00Vette04GTO's Avatar
00Vette04GTO
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Default

Originally Posted by The Void
If I were starting with a blank sheet I would use a 6.2 ls3 block. The price difference if you are buying new isn't very much. You would have access square port heads. The ls3 intake flows really good and is really cheap. More displacement will let you hit your power goals with a less radical cam.

If you are trying to reuse parts you already have it might be a different story.
Valid point, and I have considered going 6.0 or 6.2... But I am also trying to keep fuel mileage in mind to some extent.

If I do go with the 5.7, I do need to still figure out if the 5.3 truely has a better oiling system. And I wonder if I will have heat issues with a 5.3 bored? But from what I understand a 5.3 bored has the same piston wall size as a 5.7?
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 09:59 AM
  #10  
Blitzkrieg's Avatar
Blitzkrieg
AKA "The CLOWN"
Supporting Lifetime
10 Year Member
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 6,261
Likes: 13
From: Chicago South Suburbs
Default

I am having a 390 built for 20lbs of boost! Check this out, awesome short block! It will handle just about anything you can throw at it. I would get with Arun, he is awesome at picking out cams!

http://www.aesracing.net/product_info_390LS1.htm

Also fill out your profile so we know about where you live!

Last edited by Blitzkrieg; Feb 12, 2013 at 10:03 AM.
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 10:06 AM
  #11  
NukeC5's Avatar
NukeC5
Melting Slicks
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Default

From what Im reading, your build is not going to be crazy enough to worry about the oiling system. Plenty of C5 owners build their stock engines and don't even consider a 5.3L block. That sounds like a great way to start out spending allot of money. You may find need of a high volume oil pump if your rpm is going to be reaching much higher. It all depends on the operating range of the cam. Get us all the details you can and we can better help you decide.

Last edited by NukeC5; Feb 12, 2013 at 10:09 AM.
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #12  
00Vette04GTO's Avatar
00Vette04GTO
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Default

Originally Posted by NukeC5
From what Im reading, your build is not going to be crazy enough to worry about the oiling system. Plenty of C5 owners build their stock engines and don't even consider a 5.3L block. That sounds like a great way to start out spending allot of money. You may find need of a high volume oil pump if your rpm is going to be reaching much higher. It all depends on the operating range of the cam. Get us all the details you can and we can better help you decide.

Actually from what Kyle said at Thompson Motorsports... The new 5.3 block with the bore is $500 cheaper than a new 5.7 block.

I'm not looking for cheapness, but Kyle claims they are better. That is why I was considering it. Though I do tend to lean towards the 5.7 block just because it seems a better platform. But if the 5.3 oiling is better and bored the piston wall size is the same, I wonder if I would be a fool to use a 5.7.

The cam Kyle recommended is 226 232 @50 with a 112lsa, but I do think I might go more aggressive unless you guys think this is where I want to be for street & strip use.

Last edited by 00Vette04GTO; Feb 12, 2013 at 11:53 AM.
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 11:30 AM
  #13  
00Vette04GTO's Avatar
00Vette04GTO
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Default

Originally Posted by Blitzkrieg
I am having a 390 built for 20lbs of boost! Check this out, awesome short block! It will handle just about anything you can throw at it. I would get with Arun, he is awesome at picking out cams!

http://www.aesracing.net/product_info_390LS1.htm

Also fill out your profile so we know about where you live!
Nice! And good price on the short block there. What type of boost are you going to run? Are you going twin turbo? What type of HP/TRQ are you expecting?
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 12:45 PM
  #14  
marco383's Avatar
marco383
Burning Brakes
20 Year Member
Liked
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 25
From: Jasper GA
Default

Not really my business, but why are you going with an engine builder in Texas when there are several first rate shops in Atlanta?
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #15  
00Vette04GTO's Avatar
00Vette04GTO
Thread Starter
Instructor
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Default

Originally Posted by marco383
Not really my business, but why are you going with an engine builder in Texas when there are several first rate shops in Atlanta?
The machine shop I normally have do my work here is running 6-8 weeks behind. I have not found any other shops in Atlanta I trust, and found a lot of good reviews about Thompson online. Shipping is only $300 to a local Fedex hub and they can have it to me in 2 weeks. I am using all new parts so I don't technically have to have someone local. But, if you know (or anyone knows) any good engine builders in Atlanta, please let me know. I am on the east side of Atlanta, but anywhere in the metro area would be awesome. I would much prefer someone local, but I want a quality build with quality parts.
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 03:06 PM
  #16  
Thompson Motorsports's Avatar
Thompson Motorsports
Instructor
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 249
Likes: 14
Default

We can offer a fair price on a higher quality product than anyone in the country. We pride ourselves in our top grade customer service and knowlege of LS based motors. We do not build any motor that comes through the door we only build LS motors. We are here for our cusomers to make sure that every experience they have with us is the best possible experience. There are many reputable shops in Atlanta as well as all over the country but I do not know of any that will take the time to make sure that the purchase you are making is the right one like we will and continue to be there for the customer long after the sale. I definatley see the appeal to using a local shop and I understand the recommendation to use someone who you can deal with face to face but I can promise that we will make every effort to make you feel like part of the family when you use our products.
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 04:23 PM
  #17  
road pilot's Avatar
road pilot
Le Mans Master
Supporting Lifetime
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,286
Likes: 1,515
From: Oviedo Florida
2024 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2021 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2016 C5 of Year Finalist
Default

I don't know too much but I would check if Thompson will dyno
the engine before shipping. You will have a idea on real numbers
your engine will produce. As far as your tranny goes find a good Performance shop and you will get a tranny you can count on
and don't forget those couplers pay alittle more and you will
have alittle insurance. You will need a xtra tranny cooler as well.
You sound like like you have been thinking about this engine.
I am on the fense on the 5.3 bored. I would go for more cu in.

As far as one of the comments about 346 cu I run 725 on the
street with NO issues. My point there is nothing wrong with the
engine and with proper planning and exacution you can run big
power numbers with zero issues.

Good luck.
Reply

Get notified of new replies

To 2000 Corvette Engine Build

Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:13 PM
  #18  
LoneStarFRC's Avatar
LoneStarFRC
Team Owner
15 Year Member
 
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Default

I have never done business with Thompson, but by reputation they are excellent. Heard many nice words over the last few years.

HTH
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2013 | 10:31 PM
  #19  
happiedazs's Avatar
happiedazs
Pro
Supporting Lifetime
15 Year Member
Conversation Starter
All Eyes On Me
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 647
Likes: 22
From: Norwalk CT and Boynton Beach FL
Default

Rebuilding an engine is often the most expensive and most frustrating way to go. Check out all new 500 hp LS create engines before you proceed. My guess is it will be Thousands $$$ cheaper so do your homework.
Reply
Old May 19, 2013 | 02:54 PM
  #20  
TXVette435's Avatar
TXVette435
Burning Brakes
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 999
Likes: 5
From: East Plano, Republic of Texas
Default

Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
I have never done business with Thompson, but by reputation they are excellent. Heard many nice words over the last few years.

HTH
I did not either, but lots of my buddies talking very highly about their builds. If I will do my engine, I'll go with them.
My 2c.
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:26 PM.

story-0
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2

Slideshow: Should you buy a 2020-2026 Corvette or wait for 2027?

By Michael S. Palmer | 2026-04-22 10:08:58


VIEW MORE
story-1
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every Model vs Closest Competitor

Slideshow: 2027 Corvette lineup vs the world.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-04-20 17:58:41


VIEW MORE
story-2
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!

Slideshow: 10 major Corvette problems from the last 20 years.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-04-14 16:37:05


VIEW MORE
story-3
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!

Slideshow: 5 most and least popular Corvette model years.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-04-08 13:25:01


VIEW MORE
story-4
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!

Slideshow: 2027 Corvette buyer's guide

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-04-17 16:41:08


VIEW MORE
story-5
10 Things C8 Corvette Owners Hate (But Won't Tell You)

Slideshow: 10 things C8 Corvette owners hate, but won't tell you.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-04-01 18:36:07


VIEW MORE
story-6
10 Best Corvettes Coming to Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach 2026!

Slideshow: Should you add one of these incredible Corvettes to your garage?

By Brett Foote | 2026-04-01 18:14:05


VIEW MORE
story-7
Every Corvette Grand Sport Explained! (C2, C4, C6, C7, & C8)

Slideshow: Every Corvette Grand Sport explained

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-03-26 07:13:44


VIEW MORE
story-8
Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!

Slideshow: Breaking down the 2027 Grand Sport, Grand Sport X, Stingray, and LS6 V8.

By Michael S. Palmer | 2026-03-26 13:48:45


VIEW MORE
story-9
5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!

Slideshow: 5 reasons bad drivers crash sports cars & 5 ways to avoid a costly shame!

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-03-25 16:32:55


VIEW MORE