2000 Corvette Engine Build
First question is I am looking at Thompson Motorsports to do the build. Anyone have any experience with them?
Any recommendations on what HP rating I should be targeting to still have a streetable ride? With stock rear end and automatic trans. I was thinking 450? Would 500 be too much to drive daily?
I am looking to use a new 5.7 LS1 block. Thompson motorsports said they'd recommend using a 5.3 aluminum block bored to 5.7 due to better oil flow. Anyone have any opinions on this? To me it just seems I'd want a 5.7, but if the oil flow thing is true I guess I'd want the 5.3 bored?
Any recommendations on cam? Or maximum size cam and torque converter combo I'd want to use to keep MPG as good as possible and daily drivability?
Should I be looking to go 383 stroker, or keep the 350 displacement?
How much HP difference is there between shorty and longtube headers? I'd like to use shorties for ease of install. If I went with longtube do they generally fit vette's without having to drop/replace the kmember?
How good is the intake that comes on the 00 vette. Am I good to use it or should I get a FAST intake or another generation GM intake?
How good is the stock throttle body, and how much bigger should I go?
Thanks for any advice (I am new to the vette world
),Mike.
When you speak hp, are you talking at the crank or the wheels? 500 at the wheels from a 346 it pretty radical. Especially for an auto.
What gears do you have? Most were 2.73, you will want to switch to 3.42.
You will need a converter. An upgraded trans is also advisable.
A 383 makes it all easier. Less radical to get to the same hp level.
Since you will be removing the engine, adding long tubes will be easy, Just lay them in before dropping the new engine in. Probably 20hp better than shorties.
For intakes, the 2001 and later are better. Commonly called the LS6 intake.
Doing the work yourself? It's a big project! And will cost you some serious bucks to have done for you. I'm thinking $15K pretty easy.
Ron
When you speak hp, are you talking at the crank or the wheels? 500 at the wheels from a 346 it pretty radical. Especially for an auto.
What gears do you have? Most were 2.73, you will want to switch to 3.42.
You will need a converter. An upgraded trans is also advisable.
A 383 makes it all easier. Less radical to get to the same hp level.
Since you will be removing the engine, adding long tubes will be easy, Just lay them in before dropping the new engine in. Probably 20hp better than shorties.
For intakes, the 2001 and later are better. Commonly called the LS6 intake.
Doing the work yourself? It's a big project! And will cost you some serious bucks to have done for you. I'm thinking $15K pretty easy.
Ron
As far as the rear end ratio, I was thinking with a lot of HP I wouldnt need to step up the gearing. I always have had 3.73 or 4.11 depending on manual or auto, but this was with a lower hp car. Wouldnt the tires want to do nothing but break loose if I step the rear end up with that much HP? Like I said this is my first vette, but have had several F Bodies and a GTO and they already want to break loose (which is fun but with more HP it would require a lot of suspension and tires to put the power to the ground)
I will be doing the install myself, but having the engine built. And BTW: I was talking HP at the motor.
Any other info/advice would be appreciated. I do not know how well the C5's handle horsepower, and I want something streetable but on the edge of insane without having to completely replace my suspension if possible.
Last edited by 00Vette04GTO; Feb 10, 2013 at 02:40 PM.
Last edited by 00Vette04GTO; Feb 11, 2013 at 11:45 AM.
As far as the rear end ratio, I was thinking with a lot of HP I wouldnt need to step up the gearing. I always have had 3.73 or 4.11 depending on manual or auto, but this was with a lower hp car. Wouldnt the tires want to do nothing but break loose if I step the rear end up with that much HP? Like I said this is my first vette, but have had several F Bodies and a GTO and they already want to break loose (which is fun but with more HP it would require a lot of suspension and tires to put the power to the ground)
I will be doing the install myself, but having the engine built. And BTW: I was talking HP at the motor.
Any other info/advice would be appreciated. I do not know how well the C5's handle horsepower, and I want something streetable but on the edge of insane without having to completely replace my suspension if possible.
With good heads of course. Stock 243 heads work well.
3.42 gears are a nice setup for the A4, and the beauty here is that all the stick cars came with 3.42 diff. so just swap the entire unit. If you shop smart, a good 3rib 3.42 diff can be had for $500.
Good to hear you will turn the bolts!
If you were to wish for a 1/4 mile ET, what would it be?
My car is pretty mellow, yet knocking on the high tens. I read everything I could here, drew on my muscle car drag race experience, bought used everywhere I could and have a good result.
it's fun stuff!
Ron
If you are trying to reuse parts you already have it might be a different story.
With good heads of course. Stock 243 heads work well.
3.42 gears are a nice setup for the A4, and the beauty here is that all the stick cars came with 3.42 diff. so just swap the entire unit. If you shop smart, a good 3rib 3.42 diff can be had for $500.
Good to hear you will turn the bolts!
If you were to wish for a 1/4 mile ET, what would it be?
My car is pretty mellow, yet knocking on the high tens. I read everything I could here, drew on my muscle car drag race experience, bought used everywhere I could and have a good result.
it's fun stuff!
Ron
One of the cams I am talking with the builder about is 226 232 @50 with a 112lsa, though I am considering going with a slightly bigger cam.
Looking at a 10.5 to 1 compression ratio with 421 heads.
Probably going to run 40# injectors.
Think I should go with a high pressure or volume oil pump, or keep the standard one? I've seen threads going both directions on this subject.
I've been calling around trying to find a good transmission shop to build my automatic to handle the power. Not having too much luck so far. I am assuming I need to have my clutches and bands replaced/upgraded. Also a 3000 Stall converter. Anything I'm missing here?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
If you are trying to reuse parts you already have it might be a different story.
If I do go with the 5.7, I do need to still figure out if the 5.3 truely has a better oiling system. And I wonder if I will have heat issues with a 5.3 bored? But from what I understand a 5.3 bored has the same piston wall size as a 5.7?
http://www.aesracing.net/product_info_390LS1.htm
Also fill out your profile so we know about where you live!
Last edited by Blitzkrieg; Feb 12, 2013 at 10:03 AM.
Last edited by NukeC5; Feb 12, 2013 at 10:09 AM.
Actually from what Kyle said at Thompson Motorsports... The new 5.3 block with the bore is $500 cheaper than a new 5.7 block.
I'm not looking for cheapness, but Kyle claims they are better. That is why I was considering it. Though I do tend to lean towards the 5.7 block just because it seems a better platform. But if the 5.3 oiling is better and bored the piston wall size is the same, I wonder if I would be a fool to use a 5.7.
The cam Kyle recommended is 226 232 @50 with a 112lsa, but I do think I might go more aggressive unless you guys think this is where I want to be for street & strip use.
Last edited by 00Vette04GTO; Feb 12, 2013 at 11:53 AM.
http://www.aesracing.net/product_info_390LS1.htm
Also fill out your profile so we know about where you live!






the engine before shipping. You will have a idea on real numbers
your engine will produce. As far as your tranny goes find a good Performance shop and you will get a tranny you can count on
and don't forget those couplers pay alittle more and you will
have alittle insurance. You will need a xtra tranny cooler as well.
You sound like like you have been thinking about this engine.
I am on the fense on the 5.3 bored. I would go for more cu in.
As far as one of the comments about 346 cu I run 725 on the
street with NO issues. My point there is nothing wrong with the
engine and with proper planning and exacution you can run big
power numbers with zero issues.
Good luck.


HTH













