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Seems the C5/C6 Balancer Pulleys are becoming more prevalent. We had 3 this week. Once C5Z received the ATI Superdamper and the other two received the Powerbond Pulley. No more chripping or wobbling balancer.
Well, the C5Z that received the ATI Balancer had 26k. The other one that received the Powerbond Balancer, the OEM Balancer was already replaced and only had 6 months on it. He was getting tired of replacing it with a stock balancer that WILL fail.
The ATI is among the best that money can buy. That one is ~$500. The Powerbond comes in a lot cheaper and is a great option. The stock one is POS. I cannot believe that GM uses this even today. They do not need pinned unless the car is supercharged.
Nice 8 Rib ATI! I am about to do the 6 rib ATI with the counter sunk bolts. I need the pinning kit for it. I was reading there are two kits..I want the one so I can remove my balancer at a later date for cam and oil pump.
Nice 8 Rib ATI! I am about to do the 6 rib ATI with the counter sunk bolts. I need the pinning kit for it. I was reading there are two kits..I want the one so I can remove my balancer at a later date for cam and oil pump.
The ATI Balancer comes in 3 pieces. The Main Hub, AC pulley and the Main Pulley. The Main Pulley can be rebuilt and can be removed without removing the entire hub. As for a cam install, the entire hub assembly has to be removed and you have to use a power steering puller, uses 3 bolts. The AC pulley goes behind the main hub and makes removal of the timing cover impossible with removing the entire pulley assembly.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Brian@RPT
The ATI is among the best that money can buy. That one is ~$500. The Powerbond comes in a lot cheaper and is a great option. The stock one is POS. I cannot believe that GM uses this even today. They do not need pinned unless the car is supercharged.
I agree with you completely on the Powerbond.
It is an excellent bang for the buck and is also available in an underdrive configuration as well as stock diameter. Orders of magnitude better than the stocker.
It is an excellent bang for the buck and is also available in an underdrive configuration as well as stock diameter. Orders of magnitude better than the stocker.
Our Aussie friends got it right.
My FRC had the stock one fail at 30k.
I replaced it with a Powerbond 2 years ago. Still no wobble at all.
Seems the C5/C6 Balancer Pulleys are becoming more prevalent. We had 3 this week. Once C5Z received the ATI Superdamper and the other two received the Powerbond Pulley. No more chripping or wobbling balancer.
I see that the PB pulley has timing marks as well as a key slot in it. As most of us know, the crank is not keyed. () How would one go about installing it, and making sure that it's indexed correctly on the crank?
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I see that the PB pulley has timing marks as well as a key slot in it. As most of us know, the crank is not keyed. () How would one go about installing it, and making sure that it's indexed correctly on the crank?
Installation is the same as OEM. The key slot is there if you need/want it. The timing marks are also there for some LSx engines that may need them, yours likely doesn't, so ignore them.
There IS no "indexing" on the crank.
Installation is the same as OEM. The key slot is there if you need/want it. The timing marks are also there for some LSx engines that may need them, yours likely doesn't, so ignore them.
There IS no "indexing" on the crank.
HTH
I understand what you're saying, but it just doesn't seem to be right to my **** nature. If a pulley has timing marks, I'd try to see that they at least have some meaning..
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I understand what you're saying, but it just doesn't seem to be right to my **** nature. If a pulley has timing marks, I'd try to see that they at least have some meaning..
Sorry, can't help you with the moral imperative there.
If it you bothers you bad enough, you could always fab up a timing marker tab and mount it to the front engine cover, bring the engine up to TDC on #1 cylinder and press the HB on the crank with the HB oriented so the "0" (TDC) coincides with your marker. More better?
This is nothing more than making one HB that will work one more than just one LS engine.