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Balancer Woes

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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 03:34 PM
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Default Balancer Woes

Seems the C5/C6 Balancer Pulleys are becoming more prevalent. We had 3 this week. Once C5Z received the ATI Superdamper and the other two received the Powerbond Pulley. No more chripping or wobbling balancer.







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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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Do you have any idea why these are failing at this time....
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 07:44 PM
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The outer and inner parts of the balancer are separated by rubber. Over time, heat and aging deteriorates the rubber and this issue will arise.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 08:13 PM
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How old and how many miles on the ones in the pictures...
Thanks
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 09:20 AM
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Well, the C5Z that received the ATI Balancer had 26k. The other one that received the Powerbond Balancer, the OEM Balancer was already replaced and only had 6 months on it. He was getting tired of replacing it with a stock balancer that WILL fail.
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 09:32 AM
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How expensive are the Powerbond balancers?
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 10:35 AM
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$200
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 07:43 PM
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What's the difference between the two. Also do they need to be pinned..
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 08:48 PM
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The ATI is among the best that money can buy. That one is ~$500. The Powerbond comes in a lot cheaper and is a great option. The stock one is POS. I cannot believe that GM uses this even today. They do not need pinned unless the car is supercharged.
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 08:51 PM
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This C6er lost his at 13k. Sad...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...13k-miles.html
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 08:54 PM
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Nice 8 Rib ATI! I am about to do the 6 rib ATI with the counter sunk bolts. I need the pinning kit for it. I was reading there are two kits..I want the one so I can remove my balancer at a later date for cam and oil pump.
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 09:07 PM
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Thanks for the info Brian.......
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SPDKNGG
Nice 8 Rib ATI! I am about to do the 6 rib ATI with the counter sunk bolts. I need the pinning kit for it. I was reading there are two kits..I want the one so I can remove my balancer at a later date for cam and oil pump.
The ATI Balancer comes in 3 pieces. The Main Hub, AC pulley and the Main Pulley. The Main Pulley can be rebuilt and can be removed without removing the entire hub. As for a cam install, the entire hub assembly has to be removed and you have to use a power steering puller, uses 3 bolts. The AC pulley goes behind the main hub and makes removal of the timing cover impossible with removing the entire pulley assembly.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian@RPT
The ATI is among the best that money can buy. That one is ~$500. The Powerbond comes in a lot cheaper and is a great option. The stock one is POS. I cannot believe that GM uses this even today. They do not need pinned unless the car is supercharged.
I agree with you completely on the Powerbond.

It is an excellent bang for the buck and is also available in an underdrive configuration as well as stock diameter. Orders of magnitude better than the stocker.

Our Aussie friends got it right.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
I agree with you completely on the Powerbond.

It is an excellent bang for the buck and is also available in an underdrive configuration as well as stock diameter. Orders of magnitude better than the stocker.

Our Aussie friends got it right.


My FRC had the stock one fail at 30k.

I replaced it with a Powerbond 2 years ago. Still no wobble at all.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian@RPT
Seems the C5/C6 Balancer Pulleys are becoming more prevalent. We had 3 this week. Once C5Z received the ATI Superdamper and the other two received the Powerbond Pulley. No more chripping or wobbling balancer.


I see that the PB pulley has timing marks as well as a key slot in it. As most of us know, the crank is not keyed. () How would one go about installing it, and making sure that it's indexed correctly on the crank?
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I see that the PB pulley has timing marks as well as a key slot in it. As most of us know, the crank is not keyed. () How would one go about installing it, and making sure that it's indexed correctly on the crank?
Installation is the same as OEM. The key slot is there if you need/want it. The timing marks are also there for some LSx engines that may need them, yours likely doesn't, so ignore them.
There IS no "indexing" on the crank.

HTH
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Installation is the same as OEM. The key slot is there if you need/want it. The timing marks are also there for some LSx engines that may need them, yours likely doesn't, so ignore them.
There IS no "indexing" on the crank.

HTH
I understand what you're saying, but it just doesn't seem to be right to my **** nature. If a pulley has timing marks, I'd try to see that they at least have some meaning..
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I understand what you're saying, but it just doesn't seem to be right to my **** nature. If a pulley has timing marks, I'd try to see that they at least have some meaning..
Sorry, can't help you with the moral imperative there.

If it you bothers you bad enough, you could always fab up a timing marker tab and mount it to the front engine cover, bring the engine up to TDC on #1 cylinder and press the HB on the crank with the HB oriented so the "0" (TDC) coincides with your marker. More better?

This is nothing more than making one HB that will work one more than just one LS engine.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 09:19 AM
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All points of reference would be TDC for #1 Cylinder. As stated before, make sure the piston is at TDC and install the pulley accordingly.
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