I was reading about remote clutch bleeders, and the Ranger Method, and found a post off of here by Evil Twin

"This is what I do.... I take a turkey baster and fit it with a small 6 inch length of 1/8th vacuum tubing making sure the connection it tight ( have to use two or three different diameters to step up the 1/8 line to fit the nozzle end of the turkey baster... you want to be able to get the 1/8th line down inside the hole at the bottom of the reservoir is you want to be able to get it in there about 4 to 6 inches..

the first thing you want to do is extract the old fluid using another baster.. then you want to wipe out the inside of the reservoir.. now fill the reserve. 1/2 way with new clean fluid.. the n take the modified turkey baster and suck up as much clean fluid into the baster... being careful not to let the fluid drip , insert the 1/8th tube down the hole about 4 to 6 inches... then squeeze the ball and it will force clean fluid in a stream and flush out the black dust contaminants.. you will immediately see the black being forced out of that whole..it will make the fluid in the reserve back. Now suck that fluid out and wipe the inside again.. now fill the resv again 1/2 way ... then reload the baster with clean fluid, instead in the hole and squeeze the bulb again.. you will see much less black coming out the hole.. again suck out the rev. the third time you do this, you will see no black coming from the hope because you have completely flushed the system clean.. such out the resv again and fill with fresh clean fluid and you are done... no need the depress the clutch.. this will last a year or more depending on your driving style."

 

So, I got to thinking, I have a "Zoom spout" oiler like this

If the oil was dumped out, and the bottle and hose washed and dried good, refill the bottle with brake fluid, this may be a easier way to do this, that is if the hose is small enough to fit into the clutch master cylinder hole and line.

These zoom spout oil things are pretty inexpensive. $2.78 at Lowes

Bad idea or not?

 

A ketchup bottle with a tube better be inexpensive.

It should do the trick.

 

What you are proposing will do nothing for the fluid and any particulates in the slave cylinder. Replacing the fluid in the reservoir and pumping the clutch pedal will create some mixing of the hydraulic fluid over time but not enough to be effective in removing the fluid in the slave. Follow the manufacturer's procedure for bleeding the slave cylinder for the time being and install a remote bleeder when you replace the clutch.

 

I had been on planning on adding a remote bleeder, thinking why take the exhaust and tunnel plate off to just do 1 bleed, might as well ad the remote bleeder while in there.

So to install a remote bleeder you have to pull out the torque tube to get access to it?

 

I did the Ranger Method just before making this thread the other day, and I had done it a couple of times before, it's been exactly about a year last time I did the Ranger Method.

Here is what happens when it needs attention, it will not go into reverse most times without putting it in 1st gear to roll it a tad, then slips into reverse.

Also feeling like I have to really muscle the shifter, getting some grinding here and there like going into 4th gear if I'm just easing the car(if I let the rpms get high this does not seem to happen), and sometimes having to double clutch (try a gear and it does not go, so put it in neutral, let off clutch, then try again)

A lot of the symptoms cleared up doing the ranger method, also I noticed the car catches 1st gear quicker upon letting out on the clutch, in other words the way I became used to driving it, I used less throttle while letting it start moving.

After doing the ranger method, the car nearly stalled as the rpms dropped with the clutch pedal not having to be as far out on it's stroke like it was before, so now I'm getting used to giving a tad more throttle.

Also I thought I was hearing clutch chatter sometimes before doing the ranger method, when taking off in 1st gear and kinda trying to go quick, such as waiting to turn left at a traffic light with no protected green, and the last car going the opposite way just went by and the light is yellow, and you need to get moved quickly.

No feeling of clutch chatter, just a funny noise.

A real flush would probably make the car shift even better, but I'm not that enthused about all the work just to get to the bleeder!

 

Yes, unless you have hands the size of a three year old child. Some individuals on this forum have reported installing the remote bleeder with the torque tube in, I'll believe it when I see it.

 

I think these are the same people who change their oil pressure sensor without removing the intake manifold.

I sincerely believe that this can be done with the right combination of tools and know-how. I am just amazed that I cannot do it.

About the OP's problem; I see a slave cylinder/throwout bearing change in your future.

 

I've done the Ranger method before on Fbodies and the vette, but not really satisfied with the results.

Sticking a tube down into the bottom hole of the reservoir and forcing fluid in there would seem to me that you would be introducing unwanted air into the system as well. Just me thinking out loud here but that doesn't sound like something I'd want to do.

Anymore for the last several years I follow GM instructions and just do it. I just simply suck out the diry fluid in the reservoir, fill with clean fluid,,,,and then start the bleeding process while topping off the reservoir. When clean fluid starts coming out the bleed screw I'm done, clutch works perfectly.

I find I only need to do it about once a year so it's not really that big of a deal.

 

I would highly recommend tpe's remote bleeder, it costs a little more but is totally worth it and it can be installed with the drivetrain intact... I did mine myself and honestly it was really easy if you have the right tools... there is an old post around here and the poster showed the tools he made and used and if you do the same then you shouldn't have too many problems with the tpe bleeder, I'm not sure if it would be effective with other bleeders out there

 

I was looking at the service manual, on vol.2, pg. 7-377. The way they describe it it seems like you can bleed the clutch slave cylinder while it's on the car. Am I reading this wrong? Or does anyone know if it is really possible? I read the procedures involving suctioning out the master resevouir, filling with clean fluid, and pumping the clutch pedal 40 times. If you really can bleed the slave cylinder on the car, that seem to be a better way. Not trying to argue with anyone, just don't understand the process. Mine's a 2003 Z06, stock everything.