Hello all - newbie joiner here and have found a TON of useful info here from all the experts and threads I've read. Thank you!

I know this subject isn't remotely new but I ask you to bare with me for a minute because I've scoured the similar threads and believe I might be looking at a different problem / possible cause. If not after reading please feel free to say so. (And please forgive my longwinded message!)

I just recently purchased a 2000 Corvette Convertible (first one I've owned). It's an automatic and has 100K (just barely over) and I've only put a little over 400 miles on in the last month (28 days from when I purchased it. Everything runs like a Swiss watch with 1 exception at the moment. There's a small kick between 1st and 2nd gear. Once it's warmed up it's less noticeable; and if I jump on it, the 1st to 2nd shift is basically seamless. But if I drive "normal" (for lack of a better word) it sort of *kicks* from 1st to 2nd. The rest of the gears are perfectly smooth.

In addition, if I've driven a bit harder than "normal", when I first get out and go to the trunk (where I keep my backpack, which is really the only reason I noticed) I pick up on a slight burning smell coming from back there - but it dissipates quickly...so quickly in fact I can't pinpoint exactly where it's coming from.

I've run through all the codes, and everything was noted as history / "H". None of them were mechanical codes and almost exclusively battery / electrical short codes for everything from turn signals, A/C, loss of comm with BCM & PCM. I cleared them like some of the other threads recommended and drove for a couple days. I checked the codes again today and nothing. One RDCM code reappeared but had the "H" at the end so I don't know if maybe I missed clearing it or if it populated that way. Nevertheless, no other codes have populated since. It's only been a couple days so I guess I can drive a while longer and see if anything comes up but I thought I'd mention it here in the mean time to see if there was any input. Or maybe some direction where I should be looking and what I should be looking for. There are no leaks - no visible leaks anyway or pooling in my garage even after being parked for 2 or 3 days without moving.

Any info at the moment is greatly appreciated! Sorry again for the length of the message. Just trying to be as thorough as I could with my description of what's going on. Thanks!

 

Congratulations on owning your first Corvette, and welcome to the Forum!

I would start by checking the transmission fluid level, and seeing what the transmission fluid looks and smells like. If the fluid and filter has been in the car for more than 50k miles, do a change right away. You should see an improvement in the way it shifts after changing the fluid.

As you probably have found out by now, there is no transmission dipstick, on C5 Corvettes, to check the fluid level. Here's a link to a thread that explains exactly how to check the fluid:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...uid-level.html

 

It may have been tuned to shift harder. I had my shift points changed and how hard its shifts changed when i added some modes and had a dyno tune. It does kick when im going under 18mph, but when i get on it its shifts much quicker. hope this helps.

John

 

was there a p1870 code? Even with an H?

 

Thanks for all the feedback!!

Ron - that was the first thing I went looking for as it seemed to be the most common item among all the transmission / hard shift threads so I went specifically to check for it. Alas, even before (as well as after) clearing there is no p1870...thankfully.

Last night when I checked I saw B2578 (RF turn sig monitor) and one other which isn't listed in any of the code lists (not that I've found anyway) - "U1001". I used Google and a couple other search engines and the code is all over Nissan pages, but I haven't seen it listed car specific with Corvette or Chevy. I know the other "1000" codes are loss of communication in some form. This one appeared with the "H" - but I know for sure it was clear before I checked.

I've been checking them every evening when I get home (without clearing anything) to see if P1870 appears - still thankfully it has not, thus far. Plus I keep checking just to try and get a handle on codes that may be continually appearing and need attention asap.

I'll have the fluid checked ASAP - or maybe just have it changed regardless. I assume it can't hurt even if it has been changed somewhat recently. I'm told the car was well maintained and it's certainly pristine bumper to bumper (more so I believe than just a detail would provide because I'm including no accidents, rust anywhere, etc) but I suppose it's still possible. I'd imagine one would never truly know 100% if everything was done right when it should be dating back to 2000 unless physical copies of the maint. records were available at the time of sale.

 

Mine (also a 2000) had a rather violent 1-2 shift....at times. It didn't have the P1870 code either.

But there was a reason, the error reporting had been turned off!
Very easy to do with HPT or EFI Live.

In fact, a lot of things had been turned off by some tuner shop. Like all the O2 codes, AIR codes, EVAP codes etc.

Rather interesting huh? Pretty easy to fool the unsuspecting buyer.

I bought HPT so I could learn to tune and tune myself. But it has paid for itself in a lot of other ways.

Ron

 

That REALLY sucks dude - sorry to hear that. But glad at least you found out...I hope you didn't find out because of major problem without any warning signs though. I guess I could buy some of the [relatively] expensive test gear and whatnot but personally I'm not even remotely able to do any of the work myself that I think it'd be a waste for me. Except gas, checking fluids, airing the tires and whatnot, I don't have a mechanically inclined bone in my body. It sucks, but it's true. Other than this particular purchase I've never bought a used car and always had the warranty to lean on with my last several vehicles. (I went from owning 4 Dodge Rams in the last 20 years, all of them new and the next purchased within a year of the warranty running out, to buying the Vette. Finally didn't need the room or anything that went with my trucks and decided to buy something for ME.)

I need to find someone relatively local who has a "top dog" reputation for Corvette work (versus a dealer, who seem to have a lot of horror stories with Vettes that go in for work) to help me when it needs attention. It needs some now and I'm sure at some point in the future it's going to need something no matter how much "babying" it gets from me. I don't treat her like a race car or anything so I'm hopeful she shows some appreciation for it! heh heh

 

It would be a real good idea to find a good specialty shop. Even better would be to find a local vette club etc. Usually one guru in there with some of the tuning tools. Odds are good it's not your issue, but wouldn't it be nice to know?

In my car, I think things were turned off to pass emissions testing back east where the car was born. Other than the harsh shift, the car ran perfect. Everything worked. I was going to modify it anyway, so was really no concern.

Have the fluid and filter changed. Again, a vette shop would be nice for that, as QuickSilver noted, there is no dip schtick, so it is rather a pain to fill them correctly. I still think GM could have put one in......

Good luck and enjoy the car!

Ron

 

You're right about that Ron!

One of the rear under-floor storage compartments would have been a nice place to hide a transmission fill tube and dipstick.

 

what ??????????????????????

man, that's crazy. It's soooo easy to reprog the PCM - to stop the problem that would set the code in the first place.

 

I had the same problem. I changed the vb and that wasn't it. took it to a reputable trans shop. He told me to change the 3-4 shift solenoid. Cleaned up everything. The best part is you don't have to remove the vb.