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I guess not. :eek: But I just installed one on my 2000 FRC, along with the previously installed Twin K & N filters, Granatelli MAF sensor, and coupler, and got a large leap in HP. It works for me. :D
Here's what mine looked like right after the intial work. I have since done some polishing to increase velocity and lower turbulence...
I also decided to epoxy up the PCV inlet valve for better flow characteristics and to keep any nitrous out of that system. I got 5 Rwhp corrected with the change before the polishing work was done.
What did you do with the PVC now that it's blocked off? Could you tell us how much you opened her up? What is the original diameter & the modified opening?
Sorry for all the Q's, but I did this little mod before on my 5.0 mas air meter and it made a nice difference too.
Porting the TB does not open up the minimum bore of the part. The bore is matched to the size of the throttle plate. It is not a common mod to fit a larger plate. BBK does make a TB with a bigger bore size.
The stock TB is a casting that is then machined with a simple straight bore. The intersection of the bore and casting are not blended at the factory so we have an opportunity to reduce the flow losses with some hand blending and polishing. Do not grind the area where the throttle plate intersects the bore! This area controls the idle air flow vs. throttle position and needs to stay very close to the stock relationship. Fortunately, this is not a real limitation in blending the TB casting to the bore. I went around the closed throttle plate with a marker as a guide before starting to grind.
The PCV cutout can be handled in several ways. The minimum mod is to just round off the edges. A bigger mod is to use metal filled epoxy and reshape the area to follow the contour of the surrounding bore. Most people leave several holes (the size of soda straws) in the epoxy to feed the PCV system.
Other areas to improve are the throttle plate which has sharp blunt edges, the fasteners that stick out into the flow and the thickness of the cross shaft. You can improve these areas with some careful work. Only grind the throttle plate edges on the sides that do not touch the bore. This is for the same reason that you don’t grind the bore. You can radius the bottom-front and the top rear of the throttle plate leaving a sharp edge on the opposite sides to keep your idle flow relationships. Most people thin the shaft and remove any threaded potion that is sticking out in the flow. Let your conscious be your guide (and the pictures).
Take a good look at the pictures. You may also want to go to several tuner web sites to see what they do.
Love the K&N trick!! Man, I can't get over how creative you list members are! Could anyone tell me why the PVC draws air from the TB like that? Does it have any effect on airflow to the motor being in this location?