Brakes dragging? Just too old??
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Charleston WV
Brakes dragging? Just too old??
I have noticed that all 4 of my rotors arent "shiney" anymore.. The are drilled/slotted and when I bought the car they looked nice even though they were used.. Now they have a grey "film" all over the rotor.. Kinda looks like the 70k mile flywheel I just removed with heat spots and stuff.. I'm guess the previous owner was either much more gentle on the brakes than I am or maybe the pads are too old?? (never hear of such a thing but its a thought).. Just confused what I can do to get the rotors looking nice again and keep it from happeneing again 
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
(1) How is the stopping power?
(2) Weak?
(3) Still the same?
(4) Noisy?
(5) Have you pulled a wheel and inspected the pads to see the depth left on them?
(6) Do you know the brand of Pads you have?
(7) Do you know the brand of rotors? (GM or aftermarket?)
(8) Got any pictures? that will help too!
Sounds like your rotors are GLAZED from hard stopping and got too hot, that can happen. Especially when when real spirited driving has happened or driving fast and having to come to a stop in a very very short distance and overheating the pads and rotors!
Thanks,Matt
(2) Weak?
(3) Still the same?
(4) Noisy?
(5) Have you pulled a wheel and inspected the pads to see the depth left on them?
(6) Do you know the brand of Pads you have?
(7) Do you know the brand of rotors? (GM or aftermarket?)
(8) Got any pictures? that will help too!
Sounds like your rotors are GLAZED from hard stopping and got too hot, that can happen. Especially when when real spirited driving has happened or driving fast and having to come to a stop in a very very short distance and overheating the pads and rotors!
Thanks,Matt
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 166
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From: Charleston WV
Dont know brand of pads but they have TONS of life left.. although have a brownish color to them like they have wiped the rust off the rotors one too many times.. The Rotors are unknown as well.. they are drilled/slotted (best pic I have at work).. One row of holes then a slot, black center..
Have not noticed a reduction in stopping force, no noise either.. With the car on jackstands, grab the front wheel like I'm playing wheel of fortune and I can get maybe 2 full rotations before the drag stops it.. Im not a hulk but I put some force behind it.. so yes they drag but its not like its "hard" to turn the wheel by hand.. The car spends a decent amount of time at the dragstrip so hard braking happens.. I just thought the street miles of driving might clean off any glaze from the dragstrip.. I will snap a picture this evening of the rotor as it is right now..
Have not noticed a reduction in stopping force, no noise either.. With the car on jackstands, grab the front wheel like I'm playing wheel of fortune and I can get maybe 2 full rotations before the drag stops it.. Im not a hulk but I put some force behind it.. so yes they drag but its not like its "hard" to turn the wheel by hand.. The car spends a decent amount of time at the dragstrip so hard braking happens.. I just thought the street miles of driving might clean off any glaze from the dragstrip.. I will snap a picture this evening of the rotor as it is right now..
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
No street driving unfortunately will not knocj=k any glaze off!
Suggestion: (if already done recently disregard)
I would bleed the entire system of the brake fluid, use a different color fluid or continue to bleed them until you have clear clean fluid coming from the calipers!
This should help, it almost seems like the pistons are not retracting all the way and contaminants are in there!
Thanks,Matt
Suggestion: (if already done recently disregard)
I would bleed the entire system of the brake fluid, use a different color fluid or continue to bleed them until you have clear clean fluid coming from the calipers!
This should help, it almost seems like the pistons are not retracting all the way and contaminants are in there!
Thanks,Matt
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
You can get this, this is what I use - note the one for the later years 1984-2010 - this works awesome and is the easiest way to bleed the system! 
Part number: 622-666
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-2-115-5597.html
Thanks,Matt
Part number: 622-666
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-2-115-5597.html
Thanks,Matt
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 166
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From: Charleston WV
I work at a dealership and we have a power bleeding system.. one of the mechanics bled the system for me but I know he did a pretty crappy job as the fluid was still dark after he was done and he also said he could only do three of the wheels since one of the bleeders was "frozen" and he didnt want to break it off.. Once the clutch is in I will do it again myself to make sure its done correctly.. Aside from having the rotors turned is there anyway to bring back their color?? Or can you even turn a slotted/drilled rotor?
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
I work at a dealership and we have a power bleeding system.. one of the mechanics bled the system for me but I know he did a pretty crappy job as the fluid was still dark after he was done and he also said he could only do three of the wheels since one of the bleeders was "frozen" and he didnt want to break it off.. Once the clutch is in I will do it again myself to make sure its done correctly.. Aside from having the rotors turned is there anyway to bring back their color?? Or can you even turn a slotted/drilled rotor?
(1) You can have a drilled and slotted rotor turned - just do not take off too much, just a de-glazing job!
(2) 3M has a de-glazing pad you can knock the glaze off of your rotors yourself with your drill motor - just do not stay in one place too long!
http://3mcollision.com/products/?PC_...glK6V0H7XKZWbl
Very similar to a scotch brite pad, they use them on the tops of pistons to knock off the carbon build up when changing heads etc.
Thanks,Matt
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
Likes: 356
From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
Likes: 356
From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
