When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
just a few questions.
I have an 01 C5Z, I/H/E. Looking for some more power, so Im going to be getting a cam soon. I have been looking at the COMP X-ER 54-444-11, and beehive springs #26918. After the install I'll be getting a tune, so I'm hoping for 50-60 HP/TQ. Ok for the questions....
- good cam choice? Anyone running it?
- the springs: safe to run with stock cam? (if I was to do the job separate)
You can run the 918 springs if you are just wanting to get that part done and out of the way. Stock cam wont hurt them and the engine wont know the difference.
You can run the 918 springs if you are just wanting to get that part done and out of the way. Stock cam wont hurt them and the engine wont know the difference.
Cool thanks. I should be installing the cam this weekend.
Tonight I am starting on my 11th cam swap in a C5. This is certainly a do-able job in the average 2-car garage using jack stands and typical hand tools. I plan on around 10 hours for a cam swap with new springs, oil pump, timing chain, and oil change. I'm sure some folks are faster than me and others may be slower. Don't let yourself get hung up on being fast.
Cliff Notes:
I like to take the steering rack completely out of the way. Don't over tighten bolts. Use thread lock on fasteners inside the engine. Make sure the oil pickup tube o-ring slips into the oil pump without cutting. Don't let lifters fall into the oil pan (use dowel rods in the oil galley to hold them up). Don't drop a valve into the cylinder when swapping springs. Buy a couple extra valve spring locks (they can be easy to loose). Verify you have proper piston-to-valve clearance. Check for proper pushrod length.
Take a serious look at the PAC 1518 beehive springs or 1521 dual springs. They are more expensive but the best drop in springs available. They will greatly outlast other springs out there. I've been running the same set of 1521's through 2 seperate builds and they still spec very close to new after about 20k miles with some very high (.660) lift cams.
Did you notice a nice power gain? What did you change with the cam(retainers/springs/PR's)? And, did you do it yourself...or take it somewhere?
I did all the work myself, heads & cam, oil pump, double roller chain and new LS7 lifters with hardened push rods & HS roller rockers.
The heads are Patriot stage 4 with Patriot gold dual springs & hardened retainers.
Power gain? Well hows going from 502RWHP to a little over 600 sound?
I did all the work myself, heads & cam, oil pump, double roller chain and new LS7 lifters with hardened push rods & HS roller rockers.
The heads are Patriot stage 4 with Patriot gold dual springs & hardened retainers.
Power gain? Well hows going from 502RWHP to a little over 600 sound?
ehhh...sounds ALRIGHT, I guess JUST KIDDING-thats bad ***. for now, I am just going to do the cam, oil pump, chain, and springs. At a later date, ill open up the heads again(or maybe just get some P&P heads, and get all the internals). I'm hoping for about 60rwhp after a good tune....but, since I am not spending the money to Dyno before-I wont know the exact gains. I cant wait til Saturday morning. Gonna take it easy on the Jack Daniels Friday night, or go without so i can wake up bright and early and get started. WISH ME LUCK!
Good luck, at leat for me mine ran like crap till I got the Dyno tune. I only drove about 10 miles before the tune. After the tune, it was like hitting the lotto.
Tonight I am starting on my 11th cam swap in a C5. This is certainly a do-able job in the average 2-car garage using jack stands and typical hand tools. I plan on around 10 hours for a cam swap with new springs, oil pump, timing chain, and oil change. I'm sure some folks are faster than me and others may be slower. Don't let yourself get hung up on being fast.
Cliff Notes:
I like to take the steering rack completely out of the way. Don't over tighten bolts. Use thread lock on fasteners inside the engine. Make sure the oil pickup tube o-ring slips into the oil pump without cutting. Don't let lifters fall into the oil pan (use dowel rods in the oil galley to hold them up). Don't drop a valve into the cylinder when swapping springs. Buy a couple extra valve spring locks (they can be easy to loose). Verify you have proper piston-to-valve clearance. Check for proper pushrod length.
SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE DONE IT A TIME ARE TWO FOR SURE.
Tonight I am starting on my 11th cam swap in a C5. This is certainly a do-able job in the average 2-car garage using jack stands and typical hand tools. I plan on around 10 hours for a cam swap with new springs, oil pump, timing chain, and oil change. I'm sure some folks are faster than me and others may be slower. Don't let yourself get hung up on being fast.
Cliff Notes:
I like to take the steering rack completely out of the way. Don't over tighten bolts. Use thread lock on fasteners inside the engine. Make sure the oil pickup tube o-ring slips into the oil pump without cutting. Don't let lifters fall into the oil pan (use dowel rods in the oil galley to hold them up). Don't drop a valve into the cylinder when swapping springs. Buy a couple extra valve spring locks (they can be easy to loose). Verify you have proper piston-to-valve clearance. Check for proper pushrod length.
Thank you..good advice...I will keep all that in mind. My biggest concern is the lifters at this point, but I'm sure itll be fine.
Good luck, at leat for me mine ran like crap till I got the Dyno tune. I only drove about 10 miles before the tune. After the tune, it was like hitting the lotto.
Ive read a couple places that it takes the car 100-200mi to "learn" the cam, and will run a lil smoother. I'm hoping for a decent ride until I get it tuned. How much did you pay for the tune?
I did an ECS mail order tune to account for all my changes (cam, headers, injectors, ...). It took care of the stalling problem and will be good enough for me to make the drive up so they can do the dyno and driveability tune.
Ive read a couple places that it takes the car 100-200mi to "learn" the cam, and will run a lil smoother. I'm hoping for a decent ride until I get it tuned. How much did you pay for the tune?
Just don't blow up the engine in the meantime. Until you get it tuned you have no idea how lean it's running.
Alright...5 hours of work today with the wife, and got up to breaking the torque on the crankshaft pulley as well as removing all rockers and PR's. That bolt was TIGHT...but finally came off. I rented a 3 leg/jaw puller from autozone, and cranked the hell out of it but that pulley will not come off.
So...I kept the torque on the puller as well as spraying the center of the pulley down with wd40 to sit overnight. Any tips or tricks to get this thing off?
Get a can of air duster and hold it upside down while you spray the crank snout. It will freeze and shrink it. Be careful though - the propellant in the can is R134 and it will give you frostbite if you spray yourself with it.