Drive train has to be out to install the bleeder on the slave cylinder.

 

The remote bleeder Katech sells uses the properly machined fitting.

 

I sure would like to see a picture of it.
Not shown the " busy ends" on their web site.

 

Just an FYI, our bleeder kits are direct fit also.

 

No picture of your units on your site either.

Edit:.... We'll let's get the secret out

I'm from Missouri...The show me state

 

It's super secret.

I'll try and get something posted in here later for you.

 

I'll check and get back to you.

 

I have the tick performance remote speed bleeder. It's the best thing I could have bought, just crack it open about 1/4 turn and stick the end of the line into a small bottle. It's nice because the speedbleeder won't pull air back in unless you crack it open wayyy too far.

 

I've done three of them, I think the sequence below is pretty close. There are some posts that say you can put a remote bleeder in without dropping the drive train, but I couldn't. There is no room for my hands to get up there.

Remove the transmission console and the gear shifter lever
Raise the car about 30 inches off the ground
Remove the exhaust system all the way to the manifolds.
Remove the drivetrain tunnel cover pan
Take the rear wheels, calipers, rotors and caliper bracket off.
Remove the axle drive nut
Remove the upper control arm pivot bolts
Give the axle yoke a good tug and pull off the axle spline
(good time to check and replace rear bearings and to fix axle boots).
Remove the wheel speed sensor lines. Take a photo of the routing.
Loosen the brake line plastic retainers. The brake lines will sort of stay in place when you lower the transaxle so make sure they are loose.
(the next step is a personal choice. Some leave the transaxle cradle bolted to the transaxle
Loosen the transaxle rubber mount nuts.
Support the transaxle just in front of the cradle with a transmission jack (or leave the cradle attached)
Loosen the 4 nuts holding the Cradle If you rotate one, that means the head rivet broke (don't worry there is a fix, you have to cut a hole in the tub in the trunk and put a wrench on the head then fiberglass repair)
Remove the cradle and suspension out of the way If you chose this method
IMPORTANT put a big putty knife in the drive tunnel next to the shift lever mount. If you don't, the shift lever mount will yank out your brake lines.

Check around for anything that might hold the transaxle up from dropping down
Lower the transaxle about 2 inches, and check to make sure nothing like a brake line is being bent.
Reach over the top of the trans axle and disconnect the electrical connector
Disconnect the QD clutch line. (I posted some photos last year of using a small engine valve spring compressor to make this disconnect and in spite of the neg posts, this worked 3 times perfectly)
OKAY, knock down a cold one, you are getting close
Remove the clutch bellhousing inspection cover
Loosen and remove the bellhousing bolts.
Put another jack under the engine. This is because when you took away the rear drivetrain support the whole drive train will pivot on the motor mounts. Have this jack share the load with the transaxle support.

Lower the transaxle another 4 inches. There is an illustration in the manual that warns you to be careful that the rear of the engine does not hit the firewall.
Reach around the torque tube and you will feel a rectangular plastic conduit. It holds the electrical wires that go to the rear. It is held in 4-5 clips and you have to slide the conduit out of these clips. This is a real B%$#$h.
Follow the wires and loosen any retainers that hold the wires to the transaxle
Now you can lower the transaxle a few more inches.
Put a support under the torque tube A rice-rocket scissors jack is perfect for this.

Now with all the bolts out of the bellhousing, it can slide back

At this point you can drive the bellhousing off the alignment pins and you can clear the clutch with the torque tube shaft.
The slave is held to the torquetube with 2 small cap screws. Remove them and you can rotate the slave to remove the old bleeder and put the new in.

The threads can gall in the slave, so if you are putting a Tick in (what I used) try it first without the copper crush washer to make sure it goes all the way in. I think most the leaks were galled threads that prevented proper seating of the fitting on the crush washer

Route the bleed line next to the bellhousing and make sure it is a ways away from headers or exh manifolds.

Another note: I put a Whitney high pressure instrument valve on the other end of the bleeder line (I developed a leak a year later at the bleed fitting from overtightening the bleed fitting into the hose So I had to go through the install a second time) I wish I had the part number, but when an instrument tech brings it to your office you don't ask too many questions.

Reassembly is the reverse. This is pretty much a one day job for two people. If I missed a step, by all means chime in. It has been over a year since I did the last one.

 

Add reverse gear replacement with a new slave in there and that's me. Thank for the post, it's nice to know the cautions beforehand. BTW I did order a line, got it from RPM Motors with a tapered fitting.

 

K24556,

Geeeze,
After reading all of that......
I'm exhausted from all of your work & am going to take a nap.

 

Someone posted a thread on how to install a bleeder without removing the driveline, I believe his name was Andrew. He made a modified wrench to do it. Having installed one when I replaced my clutch I can't figure out how he was able to do it and I have small hands. On the other hand I also have headers which didn't make my job any easier, they were a pain in the a__ to work around.

 

I checked the bleeder from East Coast Performance, and it does indeed include a crush washer.

 

It can be done. I had a helper spin/twist the bleeder line from above while I aimed it at the slave port with 2 fingers until I had thread engagement. Once you get to that point, it's just matter of many short throws of a little wrench until it's snugged down .

 

that sucks that tpe closed if that is true, the bleeder they had was great and someone should buy the design and continue making them... I installed mine when I did my longtubes and I didn't remove the drivetrain... it was actually really easy if you have the right tools, I can upload some pics of what I used tomorrow if anyone needs a visual

 

I received the RPM Motorsports line today, looks legit. It's 30" in length, has a -3 AN line with swedged fittings, and a tapered fitting for the slave. I would have test fitted in in the new slave, but seeing how the new master came with a full reservoir I'm wondering if the slave is pre-serviced too.




I don't give 3 bowls of stuffing that it didn't include a speed bleeder either, I'm not 100% sold on them. This'll go in with the new slave and reverse gear that showed up today too.

 

Just eyeballing it, the taper on the slave fitting appears to be the same as the one on Tick's version. Soooo ... not sure why they put a crush washer on theirs seeing as that isn't where the seal is made.

 

Ok, I have a TICK remote bleeder. Purchased (or given free with purchase, I forgot) when I bought a TICK Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder.

Since it has been a while, I used it once because I "THINK" it is a two man job, isn't it? Honestly, I don't even know how to use it. Hahahaha.....Last time I wanted to clean out my clutch fluid reservoir, I used a turkey baster when I have a remote bleeder. Go figure.

Can someone school me on the proper technique for using a remote bleeder?

How much clean fluid do you need to be safe when using this method? I bought 6 small Prestone DOT-4's this morning. I'd like to swap out the old and in with the new.

Anyone??

 

Same as bleeding brakes: pump once, crack the bleeder loose until fluid stops coming out, close it, repeat until clean fluid comes out. I hook a syringe type deal with the piston removed to the bleeder (of anything) and let the bleeder blow the fluid into it. Not only does this cut down on mess, but when it's thicker than a fine stream you can get a much better idea of how clean the fluid is coming. You also get a good gauge on when it's time to refill the reservoir.

 

Same as brakes ... easiest way is with 2 people. Open bleeder, pedal down, close bleeder, pedal up, repeat. (might have to pull the pedal up manually if you've removed the return spring since you'll have no pressure built up)

For a one man show, you can also just open the bleeder and submerge it into a cup of brake fluid. Then pump away and when you backflow a tad on the upstroke, it'll be fluid instead of air. Just be sure to keep the reservoir filled. I use this method on brakes with a short length of clear tubing.

No hard and fast rule ... just keep pumping it through until what you put in looks the same as what is coming out. There's not much fluid at all in your clutch hydraulics, and I've found that one of those stubby little bottles of brake fluid is way more than enough for a flush.